Build Troopie build

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a final fitting of the armor to make sure all hidden nuts are welded on, to confirm the fitting one last time. once it goes in for powder coating there is no cheap way of changing anything.

kinda looks cool like this.
armor 019.webp
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armor 017.webp
 
not sure if i posted this before but this is the "weak link" in the frame design.
a simple bead will fix it.
wheeling in april 045.webp
wheeling in april 044.webp
 
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crushers said:
a final fitting of the armor to make sure all hidden nuts are welded on, to confirm the fitting one last time. once it goes in for powder coating there is no cheap way of changing anything.

kinda looks cool like this.
Click to expand...


You're a craftsman Crusher, I'm amazed at the ability's you guys have and what you achieve in your home workshops.

Zoltans SOA 75 was an epic build that I followed, and was great to see the finished truck and some videos of it out being used. I must say though with you guys - I don't think your projects ever get finished, they just keep on getting fine tuned.

I must have missed some of yours as I was trying to work out what chassis you had all the bar work around, when it dawned on me that you had separated the body and the chassis.

Can the powder coating boys powder coat the complete bar work at once or you will break it down into smaller sections? How long has the project taken you so far. I'm going to follow your deck construction pretty closely to - you may give me some ideas.

Cheers
 
61Mk+ said:
An excellent idea, the shot of all the body armour laid out. Thanks, Wayne.

Cheers, 61Mk+
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Previous post I had not realized that it had been powder coated already, I did wonder about the colour. I obviously need to pay more attention.

Gents do you see weight being an issue,?? my own truck has had a reasonable amount of steel work added, with deck and bars winch etc, but I think the cab/chassis are probably starting off with an advantage, the Troopys are heavier from the factory, although the addition of any deck to the cab / chassis will soon close the gap.

Any idea of the weight of all that bar work??
 
i suspect by the time it is delivered it will weight around 7000 lbs. Stock it is 5150 lbs.
remember this is an "overland" or "expedition" unit and not being built to tackle the Rubicon or bumper deep mud. (although it might be surprising)
the goal was to build a vehicle that would be capable and reliable for extended traveling in interesting terrain.
a unimog U1450 weighs 7500 lbs and the U1650 weighs in at 10,000 lbs, so this "fat pig" is actually a baby in comparrison.
 
61Mk+ said:
Hello Welby,
I'd have a look at this thread from the beginning; although i could be mistaken, i think it's in there somewhere that the added steel armour weighs 1100 pounds (!!!!). The fender protection, sidesteps, and skid plates are removable; hell, all of it is, actually.
Yes, weight is an issue, but it'll be dealt with, ah, as best it can. If the wrong decisions were made, well, live and learn.
It is going to be one fat pig.

Cheers, 61Mk+
Click to expand...

Thanks for that, I did spend quite a bit of time looking through the thread for earlier posts re weight, and there is a huge amount of information in here, - which is a good thing. Good luck with the build I am sure any problems will be solved over time, and with it being used as a DD for a while all the wrinkles will be sorted. The 70s don't mind carrying a bit of extra weight, after all thats what Mr Toyota designed them to do and I think it makes them a better truck in most situations.

Cheers
 
Welby,
thanks for the compliment, i appreciate it.
i had considered building a larger shop when i moved here but i wanted to try and do the work in the small little shop as it is easy to heat, cozy, very bright with all the windows and lighting ... it doesn't feel like i am actually at work. it feels like a cacoon that i enter each day to create and bring life to ideas. it is an amazing feeling.
a bigger shop would feel like any other work bay, a job.

the vehicle does get completed, i think MK might get a bit miffed if it didn't. usually a build like these takes me about 9 months to a year to complete.

the armor all comes off in individual pieces so yes, each peice is PC.

cheers and thanks for following along.:cheers:
Welby said:
You're a craftsman Crusher, I'm amazed at the ability's you guys have and what you achieve in your home workshops.

Zoltans SOA 75 was an epic build that I followed, and was great to see the finished truck and some videos of it out being used. I must say though with you guys - I don't think your projects ever get finished, they just keep on getting fine tuned.

I must have missed some of yours as I was trying to work out what chassis you had all the bar work around, when it dawned on me that you had separated the body and the chassis.

Can the powder coating boys powder coat the complete bar work at once or you will break it down into smaller sections? How long has the project taken you so far. I'm going to follow your deck construction pretty closely to - you may give me some ideas.

Cheers
Click to expand...
 
G'day all,
I thought I would post a photo for you all of my Troopie as it's used in Western Australia to go detecting. Its fitting out is very basic, apart from the bull bar, a twin wheel carrier, dual batteries, solar panels and a bed to sleep in. So that's why I'm following your build with interest. I am looking forward to the interiour and how you will be doing that. Great to watch a craftsman at work.
regards
John 3 (2).webp
 
G'day Crushers ,all
on the hood is a 120w twin solar panel that fold together like a suitcase for storage or travel. It's held in place by two stays that rest on the hood at the top and on the bullbar at the front. The power output from the panels plugs into a plug on the bull bar, which is then wired direct to the solar/battery controler inside the vehicle.

this setup allows me to run a 40l fridge/freezer all day and night , charge detector batteries, outside light,etc without worrying about the dual battery setup going flat.

I'm off bush tommorow so will check on your build on my return.
013.webp
 
wooowwww! I would love to see any 70 series here in California :crybaby:
great work mate! I may have to borrow some of your ideas for my FJ62 :clap:

thx again mate for the cruiser porn :cheers:

*subscribed* :flipoff2:
 
the roof rack supports 3/8ths aluminum
4 per side
nice wide spread for support on gutter
armor 027.webp
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revamped the rear support, i needed it to able to tie and support the complete rear, encorporate the signal and brake lights, license plate and light.
3/4" clearence between the bottom of the roof rack and the top of the roof. there is NO flex so i am not concerned.
armor 031.webp
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Wayne,
If you want the roof rack to be stronger you need to place a section that joins the legs together and sits down in the gutter.(basically full length gutter weight distribution). This will help prevent the rust, gutter bending and the turret stress fractures that 75/78 series troopies are renowned for.
 
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