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Builds Troopie build
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Oh I know! How long have I been following this thread.
I know wayne wants to find a 77 from what he has said.
I am still pumped to see your rig out of the shop though.
I am drooling over the powdercoating!
Are you planning on snorkeling it?
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Your planning on going factory toyota for the snorkel?
I hear they don't have sufficient airflow for a turbo'd 1hz because of the restrictions.
Go safari!
I hear they don't have sufficient airflow for a turbo'd 1hz because of the restrictions.
Go safari!
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I'm just putting the custom 4 inch on mine - aluminum wrapped with carbon fiber, custom aluminum airbox as well. I wouldnt use the factory yota snorkel - they aren't even waterproof, the factory airbox isn't waterproof as well - as long as there is a felt seal on the catch can and is the seams aren't sealed it will leak.
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #348
CAI_Primer_Airflow
interesting reading for a rainy day.
special note:
If we are interested in calculating the percent change in the friction when going from a smooth surface 4 inch duct to a smooth surface 3 inch duct, we can use the Fanning friction equation given above and derive the following:
Putting in the numbers for the friction factors and the diameters for the 3 inch and 4 inch ducts we arrive at the following:
What this means is going from a 4 inch duct to a 3 inch ID duct increases the friction losses by ~2.7 times. Thus, it is not hard to see that a 4 inch duct is preferable over a 3 inch duct by reducing friction losses as well as lowering the air velocity by nearly half.
Another design consideration that strongly influences the airflow dynamics is bends in the intake duct. Any time the airflow is forced to change directions, additional flow resistance is encountered. In typical flow dynamic calculations, the resistance contributed to the system by bends is determined by calculating the equivalent length of straight pipe that represents the bend's friction. For example, if a 3 inch duct has a 6 inch straight section, a 90° bend with a 3 inch centerline radius followed by another 6 inch section, then the contribution of the 90° bend could be considered as adding a calculated amount of straight pipe in place of the bend. (See illustration below.) Thus, the entire piping can be treated as a straight pipe. This makes overall piping friction calculations easier because once you know how much equivalent straight pipe in the system, the overall fiction of the piping is easily calculated by the Fanning friction equation given above.
interesting reading for a rainy day.
special note:
If we are interested in calculating the percent change in the friction when going from a smooth surface 4 inch duct to a smooth surface 3 inch duct, we can use the Fanning friction equation given above and derive the following:
Putting in the numbers for the friction factors and the diameters for the 3 inch and 4 inch ducts we arrive at the following:
What this means is going from a 4 inch duct to a 3 inch ID duct increases the friction losses by ~2.7 times. Thus, it is not hard to see that a 4 inch duct is preferable over a 3 inch duct by reducing friction losses as well as lowering the air velocity by nearly half.
Another design consideration that strongly influences the airflow dynamics is bends in the intake duct. Any time the airflow is forced to change directions, additional flow resistance is encountered. In typical flow dynamic calculations, the resistance contributed to the system by bends is determined by calculating the equivalent length of straight pipe that represents the bend's friction. For example, if a 3 inch duct has a 6 inch straight section, a 90° bend with a 3 inch centerline radius followed by another 6 inch section, then the contribution of the 90° bend could be considered as adding a calculated amount of straight pipe in place of the bend. (See illustration below.) Thus, the entire piping can be treated as a straight pipe. This makes overall piping friction calculations easier because once you know how much equivalent straight pipe in the system, the overall fiction of the piping is easily calculated by the Fanning friction equation given above.
Yes I remember seeing that before, same holds true for intercooler piping and that is why I got rid of the front mount intercooler. The guys in oz running patrols and cruisers with gobs more power than our little turbo 1hz's are using 4 inch stainless, I went with aluminum this time around as I have 6 yards or carbon fiber to play with - going to wrap it.
As for the ram pointing forward, I don't like it pointing forward - always catches bugs, dirt, rain, leaves etc etc, I'll run mine backwards. Will post a pic as soon as my airbox is welded up - she's a big snorkel!
I have to install an inline fuel pump now, I lose my pump advance on hard acceleration - one thing after the other!
As for the ram pointing forward, I don't like it pointing forward - always catches bugs, dirt, rain, leaves etc etc, I'll run mine backwards. Will post a pic as soon as my airbox is welded up - she's a big snorkel!
I have to install an inline fuel pump now, I lose my pump advance on hard acceleration - one thing after the other!
crushers
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- Thread starter
- #350
i also have to take into consideration this isn't a race vehicle, very, very seldom will it ever see 4200 rpm. it is built to do 100 k/h to 110 k/h on the highway and crawl in the bush.
a couple other points have have experienced over the decades is a "ram" (which is a stupid name for the head) pointing to the rear will experience a suction effect of the air flowing over it from the front and out over the inlet.
a ram facing forward will injest (as Louis already pointed out) bugs, rain, snow, leaves, seeds and that $25 piece of plastic will get broken by branches and twigs.
if you take a look at the way i run the "ram" on my safari units i point it towards the windscreen, on the factory i run it according the book.
i have yet to experience a detriment to running a 3" stack so there is a good chance i will do the same again here.
exhaust will be another issue to attend to but at a later date. too big and water pressure can over come the pressure put out by the engine at idle, too small and you have too much back pressure to purge the system properly. i usually run 2.5" to 3" and have been happy with them.
time will tell,
a couple other points have have experienced over the decades is a "ram" (which is a stupid name for the head) pointing to the rear will experience a suction effect of the air flowing over it from the front and out over the inlet.
a ram facing forward will injest (as Louis already pointed out) bugs, rain, snow, leaves, seeds and that $25 piece of plastic will get broken by branches and twigs.
if you take a look at the way i run the "ram" on my safari units i point it towards the windscreen, on the factory i run it according the book.
i have yet to experience a detriment to running a 3" stack so there is a good chance i will do the same again here.
exhaust will be another issue to attend to but at a later date. too big and water pressure can over come the pressure put out by the engine at idle, too small and you have too much back pressure to purge the system properly. i usually run 2.5" to 3" and have been happy with them.
time will tell,
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I have seen two companies mentioned when discussing cruise control units for 1HZ Troopies.
I have not tried any of these, as yet, so not sure which work best.
Autron make the AusCruise cruise control units...
Autron Pty Ltd
Command Auto Group make the Command cruise control units...
ECU | Command Auto Group – Sydney, Australia
I have not tried any of these, as yet, so not sure which work best.
Autron make the AusCruise cruise control units...
Autron Pty Ltd
Command Auto Group make the Command cruise control units...
ECU | Command Auto Group – Sydney, Australia
I do miss my old 81s turbo and cruise control.
Right now that is about it.
The cruise control is luxury.
Right now that is about it.
The cruise control is luxury.
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #356
the problem with the factory cruise on the 80 is (so i have been told) is it is tied into the computor harness which makes it almost impossible to install into a 70.
a manual throttle cable for thos long highway runs would work fine, just don't forget to push it back in before you hit city limits ... of course a warning light could be wired in reminding you it is engaged.
a manual throttle cable for thos long highway runs would work fine, just don't forget to push it back in before you hit city limits ... of course a warning light could be wired in reminding you it is engaged.
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crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #358
since we are heading into the aluminum parts of the truck i made the decision to practice our aluminum welding for a couple days.
we practiced on this: https://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/486828-1991-fj75-tray-install.html#post6660590
we our practice over we started on the roof rack.
first we needed to cut the panel to our sand ladder sizes:
we practiced on this: https://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/486828-1991-fj75-tray-install.html#post6660590
we our practice over we started on the roof rack.
first we needed to cut the panel to our sand ladder sizes:
crushers
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- Thread starter
- #360
the frame for the roof rack is next on the drawing board ...
i wanted to be able to slide the sand ladders out the back at any time. the tent will be mounted independent to the outside rails.
with the COG of this vehicle there shouldn't be much stored on the rack but it is there if the need arises. it is extremely strong and lighter than i originally thought.
i wanted to be able to slide the sand ladders out the back at any time. the tent will be mounted independent to the outside rails.
with the COG of this vehicle there shouldn't be much stored on the rack but it is there if the need arises. it is extremely strong and lighter than i originally thought.
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