TrickyDick's Folly--Am I doing this right?...

[TrickyDick]

...Obviously not, otherwise I'd be driving and enjoying this FJ the way Toyota intended. I bought this thing off the original owner in the California high desert back in March 1999 with the intent of getting it running (and stopping) and enjoying it and, maybe, restoring it eventually. However, while going through it, every rubber piece I touched turned to charcoal dust in my hands likely due to it sitting dormant in the desert sun for so many years. So the decision was made to begin the restoration then and there. I took many photos (before the advent of digital photography) and took many notes not for posterity but to aid in reassembly. Due to several military transfers and subsequent transition to civilian life those photos and notes are lost in storage somewhere--they may as well not exist at all. Fast forward, well, MANY years and I'm ready to get this project under way (again). Here are the particulars:

1968 Toyota Landcruiser FJ40

F Motor (Not original since I screwed it up pressure washing it. I bought a replacement from SOR in 2000. Marv said it probably had only 7k-8k miles on it)

Original 3-speed transmission and transfer case, both rebuilt with kits from SOR (new clutch, too)

I sandblasted the frame and front and rear axles and painted them with POR-15 and top-coated with Chassis Black. I rebuilt the front and rear axles with new seals and bearings and reinstalled with Skyjacker suspension.

The replacement F engine I Installed all new seals and gaskets and had hardened valve seats installed in the head.

All body parts were media blasted and have sat "in the raw" for well over two decades (I've been fortunate to be stationed in dry climates since then).

The tub needs some minor body work but otherwise is ready for paint and then reassembly can begin.

If you've read this far, you're either as mental as I am or you're completely bored (or both). Just kidding. I've been reading these forums off and on for years. I plan on seeking much help from the experts on this forum if you're willing. Thanks in advance.

V/R,

Rich

 

[TrickyDick]

Okay, the engine. As stated, I bought it from SOR in 2000. Marv at SOR said it's likely from a Japanese fire truck and has 7-8k miles. I replaced the seals and gaskets and installed it along with the rebuilt transmission and transfer case. All three have sat dry since then. I'm convinced that if I can get the engine running that's all the motivation I'd need to see this thing through. The cylinders all look great through a borescope run through the spark plug holes, however, I cant budge the crank pulley. I'm thinking I should squirt some oil around each piston circumference first, but, once I do, should this thing turn freely by the crank pulley or is there something else I should do before trying? Thanks again in advance.

V/R,

Rich

 

[RevISK]

I’m certainly no expert, but when I first started messing with my engine that hadn’t run in a couple decades (didn’t sit dry though) I pour Marvel Mystery Oil in each plug hole and over the course of a few days, slowly started turning it by the flywheel. It should turn somewhat easily with some resistance. Crankshaft nut works too since you sound like you have access.

Digital photography has been invented now. Just saying.

 

[RevISK]

Also, you have a “40” or an “FJ40”.
FJ is for FJ Cruisers.

 

[charliemeyer007]

+1 for a spoon full or 2 of Marvel's in each cylinder, let it soak for a few days. With the plugs out, put it in hi gear and try rocking the whole rig back a forth to try and break the rings loose. You might also check with the clutch in, that the rig can move in gear - that will make sure the tranny and transfer are free.

 

[65swb45]

Not enough focus on the bottom end. Pull the dizzy out and drive some oil to the crank mains with a drill motor before you try turning it again.

Be thankful you’re still on the first page of your thread. I am one of many who suffer from TLDR.

www.marksoffroad.net

 

[TrickyDick]

I’m certainly no expert, but when I first started messing with my engine that hadn’t run in a couple decades (didn’t sit dry though) I pour Marvel Mystery Oil in each plug hole and over the course of a few days, slowly started turning it by the flywheel. It should turn somewhat easily with some resistance. Crankshaft nut works too since you sound like you have access.

Digital photography has been invented now. Just saying.

Many thanks for the suggestion. I was looking at some sort of engine fogger but I will check out the Marvel stuff. Also, I never thought about turning the flywheel. IIRC, there is a tool that grabs onto the teeth to let you spin it around? I’ll look into that, too. Also, I’m smelling what you’re stepping in regarding pics. My garage is a mess, but as long as no one judges…

I’m certainly no expert, but when I first started messing with my engine that hadn’t run in a couple decades (didn’t sit dry though) I pour Marvel Mystery Oil in each plug hole and over the course of a few days, slowly started turning it by the flywheel. It should turn somewhat easily with some resistance. Crankshaft nut works too since you sound like you have access.

Digital photography has been invented now. Just saying.

I’m certainly no expert, but when I first started messing with my engine that hadn’t run in a couple decades (didn’t sit dry though) I pour Marvel Mystery Oil in each plug hole and over the course of a few days, slowly started turning it by the flywheel. It should turn somewhat easily with some resistance. Crankshaft nut works too since you sound like you have access.

Digital photography has been invented now. Just saying.

Many thanks for the advice. I was looking at some sort of engine defogger but will check out the Marvel stuff. Also, I never thought about the flywheel—IIRC there is a tool that grabs on the teeth? I’ll check that out as well. I’m smelling what you’re stepping in regarding digital photography. My garage is an absolute train wreck but if nobody here is judging…

That last pic is cylinder 3 (or 4 depending on which direction you’re supposed to count from).

 

[charliemeyer007]

Hey you have a garage, much nicer than my dirt (this time of year mud) open air parking spot. That bore look's spiffy to me.

 

[RevISK]

I literally just grabbed ahold of the flywheel (cover was off) with gloves on and slowly turned it. Did it that way to get my rig to TDC later. I did end up finding a crank handle that fit the pulley nut through the slot but that was kind of cumbersome. MMO is a pretty go to sauce to use in your situation. But make sure you pay attention to what Mark @65swb45 says. He knows what's up.

 

[pb4ugo]

Not enough focus on the bottom end. Pull the dizzy out and drive some oil to the crank mains with a drill motor before you try turning it again.

Be thankful you’re still on the first page of your thread. I am one of many who suffer from TLDR.

www.marksoffroad.net

^^^^^^Do This^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Be sure you install and seat the distributor properly so it engages the oil pump after you prime the bottom end.

 

[TrickyDick]

+1 for a spoon full or 2 of Marvel's in each cylinder, let it soak for a few days. With the plugs out, put it in hi gear and try rocking the whole rig back a forth to try and break the rings loose. You might also check with the clutch in, that the rig can move in gear - that will make sure the tranny and transfer are free.

Hey you have a garage, much nicer than my dirt (this time of year mud) open air parking spot. That bore look's spiffy to me.

Thanks, that gives me some confidence this thing may be salvageable. Thanks also for the advice in the other reply. Unfortunately it’ll be hard to rock back and forth as the Buckshots that were new when I bought it have given up the ghost but I WILL give the Marvel Mystery Oil a look-see.

 

[cstav86]

I'll second @pb4ugo in seating the distributor is critical so you have oil pressure on your first cranks/start. It's a little finicky if you arent a pro. Lots of info around mud, so just use the search and you'll have the info you need.

 

[TrickyDick]

Not enough focus on the bottom end. Pull the dizzy out and drive some oil to the crank mains with a drill motor before you try turning it again.

Be thankful you’re still on the first page of your thread. I am one of many who suffer from TLDR.

www.marksoffroad.net

Thanks for the suggestion or else I would have overlooked this. My only concern up to now has been the rings but you’re right—so many other parts that could get upset. I have a tool that may reach far enough down the distributor hole. Do I go clockwise or counter clockwise?

 

[Pighead]

Thanks for the suggestion or else I would have overlooked this. My only concern up to now has been the rings but you’re right—so many other parts that could get upset. I have a tool that may reach far enough down the distributor hole. Do I go clockwise or counter clockwise?

IIRC, the rotor turns clockwise when the engine is running, so I'd go clockwise first

 

[RevISK]

Clockwise

 

[charliemeyer007]

At one time I made a tool out of a busted long bladed screwdriver to drive the oil pump with a cordless screwdriver. It almost broke my wrist, when the pump finally made oil pressure - hold it with both hands until there is oil pressure, after that one is fine.

 

[TrickyDick]

At one time I made a tool out of a busted long bladed screwdriver to drive the oil pump with a cordless screwdriver. It almost broke my wrist, when the pump finally made oil pressure - hold it with both hands until there is oil pressure, after that one is fine.

Whoa, crazy! Will do!