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TRE Torque

ccasteel

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Below is the posting I found in the torque thread. Forgive me for asking but it seems a little high. Since it says tie rod and not tie rod end, it makes me wonder. Can someone confirm that is for the the nut that goes on the end of the TRE and not some other aspect of the tie rod?

Knuckle Studs and Tie Rods (Values differ depending on the diameter of the stud)
11mm- 40 - 60 ft#'s
12mm- 62 - 79 ft#'s
Knuckle Years:
Pre 1979 were 11mm
1979 and later were 12mm
 
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Jacket

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That looks like the torque spec for the knuckle studs - not sure why it says TR.

Are you asking what to torque the clamping bolt on the TRE once you've got it threaded to the right length? Seems like 30-40 ft lbs is about right.
 

ccasteel

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Jacket, thanks for the input. I was starting to feel all alone. I'm actually wondering about the 12mm bolt that has the nut on it. I've attached a picture below for clarification. It's my old one and I was installing its replacement.

The reason I'm asking and not taking the 62-79 ft#'s at face value, is I went to torque one of these down and it stripped out the castle nut. My torque wrench was set for 60 ft#'s and it didn't feel even close to that when I felt the nut begin to strip.
TRE Nut.jpg
 
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What your asking about is the torque for the Castle Nut on the TRE.

I don't know either, but would be interested to know as well. Hopefully somebody out here will reply so we both will know.:meh:
 
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x3 ^^ if you try to torque it to a spec you might then notice that its not lined up to get a cotter pin through it and you'll have to end up loosing it
 
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What if its so tight (75+ ft/lbs), but you still can't ft the cotter pin through? Leave it?!

Nope. Back it off a half-turn and torque it to the position right before the overtorque where you can fit the cotter.

The just tight enough and cottered is much better than overtight without one.
 
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Actually, I meant that the nut is not even on enough to allow the cotter pin to fit. It needs to be tightened even more for the pin to fit, but its already really tight. Does that make better sense?
 
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So, I kept cranking on one of the castle nuts on one of the TRE's and now the nut and stud are both moving at the same time. Great. Did I just fawk myself?!
 

ccasteel

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One of the problems I had was I tried putting the TRE for the tie rod, on the end of the drag link. I was replacing all 5 and thought two of them were the same, when in fact one has a longer bolt than the other. I never saw the hole till I got them in the right location. Also, hard to believe you got 75 ft/lbs without stripping out the threads.

Sorry I don't know the answer to your spinning problem, but they are designed to move, so I think you're okay.
 
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Well, I may have tightened them too much and they may have damaged the threads in the castle nuts. The TRE's themselves are in the correct place, I believe. It's the castle nuts and cotter pins I'm having trouble with. Should be simple, and yet I've mucked it up. :)
 
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I had the same questions in my mind when I was torquing up the castellated nut on the tie rod end. It felt miles too tight. (FJ75 Gregories 106Nm) So I pulled it up snug checked it, ~70 Nm and moved on to the next slot/ hole alignment. Tapered fitting, pinned, can't see it moving.
 

pappy

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Knuckle Studs and Tie Rods (Values differ depending on the diameter of the stud)
11mm- 40 - 60 ft#'s
12mm- 62 - 79 ft#'s
Knuckle Years:
Pre 1979 were 11mm
1979 and later were 12mm

Torque spec for the castle nut is 67lb-ft for mini-truck and FJ60/62 TREs. Straight from the FSM. This is for the 12mm TRE above.
 

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