Builds TRDdrew's build thread: lets build this one to keep (1 Viewer)

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Interesting! Is this source from eBay (from Taiwan)? I installed one of these a couple of years ago, and didn't have any issues! Have been holding up great for 2 years and almost 30k miles!

This one is a factory referbished one from a middle eastern guy, the quality is good and it's fits fine once the collar is removed just now my turn signals don't self cancel. Not a huge deal to me but still. I'm conversing with him now to see what he can do about the discrepancy
 
New steering wheels just make a vehicle
Feel new. My only gripe with this one is the hub is slightly different and the seller did not disclose. I ended up having to remove the turn signal
Self cancelling collar in order for it to mount properly.

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You can get that piece from another Toyota part (ls300). I posted some information on it here:

 
You can get that piece from another Toyota part (ls300). I posted some information on it here:

Awesome thank you sir, I'll get that ordered already found it on eBay. You're the man
 
@okoverland thanks again i got the spacer in from ebay and got it all installed works great. thanks again for the info

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Also installed a new idler pulley and tensioner pulley bearing as these were two of the culprits of my serpentine belt noises. Fairly confident the alternator is starting to go as well but the noise has been drastically reduced. Dropped off my spare control arms at the blaster the other day, got them back and primed yesterday. Gonna get a few coats of black on them today, already have new OEM bushings and 555 ball joints.

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@okoverland thanks again i got the spacer in from ebay and got it all installed works great. thanks again for the info

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Also installed a new idler pulley and tensioner pulley bearing as these were two of the culprits of my serpentine belt noises. Fairly confident the alternator is starting to go as well but the noise has been drastically reduced. Dropped off my spare control arms at the blaster the other day, got them back and primed yesterday. Gonna get a few coats of black on them today, already have new OEM bushings and 555 ball joints.

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That's great, glad you got it working too!
 
The passenger rear body side molding has been barely holding on for like a year now. Finally decided to fix that while I had some down time at work.

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Nothing much to report new bushings and ball joints are pressed into the lower control arms. Planning on installing them this weekend. We are T minus 2 weeks till Fall Crawl 23'

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Small project I got done tonight, deleted the heater T's with factory parts. I never use the rear heater so figured I'd get rid of a common point of failure.

100 series without rear heat option, the part numbers for the 2 replacement hoses

87245-6A060
87245-6A070

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Ok so I'm really really bad about taking pictures but I did get both refurbished lower control arms (blasted, painted, new bushings and 555 ball joints) in the truck Saturday. The frame side bushings are a bit of a pain and I wasn't able to press them out but the air hammer made quick work of removing them. Pretty much everything in the front end of this truck minus the steering rack ( still sitting on the shelf ) is new. After a quick drive the difference is noticeable, everything feels tighter. Couple more small jobs to knock out then ready for Fall Crawl.

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To confirm when deleting the heater T's. These only serve the far rear area not the middle area, correct?
 
To confirm when deleting the heater T's. These only serve the far rear area not the middle area, correct?
yes the T's are only there to direct coolant to heater core underneath the center console. By deleting them you still retain all the HVAC in the dash
 
Every now and again I was getting a few evap code and after a bunch of testing narrowed it down to the charcoal canister. I end up buy one for a first gen tundra and the two units are almost identical. The tundra one bolts down to the wheel well but it still has the slots for the LC mount so it slid right in. I think I paid 205.00 for this unit compared to the 400+ for the land cruiser one

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Fall crawl 23 was a success other than I got sick the first day out I made the best of it. The truck wheeled good and didn't disappoint like always and the weather was damn near perfect

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How do you find the 100's comfort with just a front a/c unit? I recently yanked my rear heater and coolbox.

Cheers mate
 
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How do you find the 100's comfort with just a front a/c unit? I recently yanked my rear heater and coolbox.

Cheers mate

So mine never had a rear a/c unit and I never used the rear heater, I feel the main unit is plenty efficient enough
 
Small project I knocked out last night hanging in the shop. Ever since I relocated my powertank to the swing out I had to move my hi- lift to the opposite side of my Jerry cans. Well in doing this the latch mechanism for the jack swings right into the water tank. It worked but was kind a PIA, as I found out at fall crawl last year. Those with a keen eye will be able to tell that the mount is a rugged ridge mount for the tailgate of a jk Jeep that I modified to work. I decide the easiest way to fix this issue was just to cut the latching mechanism off the mount, flip it and reweld it. Went ahead and welded a few more areas to stiffen it up. Wasn't the prettiest job in the world but it's not coming apart a can guarantee that :beer:


You can see here how the latching mechanism contacts the jerry cans
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