transmission removal for clutch replacement

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I have a 1970 and 68 landcruiser fj40. I need to replace the clutch in the 68. I do not have a service manual, I am just winging it. My first question is: 1.) how many bolts should I be removing from the 3 speed transmission in order for it to disconnect? 2.) is it easier to remove the transfer case then the transmission? 3.) if so how do I break the nut loose that comes out of the back of the transfer case I have tried an impact (its about an 1 1/4 size nut) I am sure its metric
 
four. Pic here:

http://www.sor.com/sor/cat056.tam?page.ctx=cat056.tam

Combined they're very heavy, I've seen pictures here with engine hoists and trany jacks being used to move/support the combination. When I did mine I had the engine out so did it piece meal...

Easier combined - fewer bolts/gaskets to remove/replace....harder because heavy cumbersome....

Update: looks like 225lbs give or take (https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/424522-h42-t-case-weight.html). So if you can bench that -easy job ;)


Search turns up this if you want more ideas on the removal

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/47114-tranny-removal.html
 
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It's only 225 lbs. so jack the truck up slightly and lay on your back under the truck and with arms extended grasp the trans/t-case firmly on either side. Have your :princess: loosen the last bolt or two and slide it back. It will suddenly drop, instantly reaching terminal velocity and driving your elbows down through your concrete shop floor. At this point you will have three options. You can let go and drop it on you sternum, or bend your elbows in either direction and drop it on your crotch, or on your face.

Seriously, I would remove the trans/t-case as a unit for sure, but support the weight with a lift. You can't be too careful with that weight. It's 200+ lbs. that feels like 500.
 
I have removed both from underneath by myself a few times. This isn't a H42 but a three speed which weights much less than the four speed. Not light but can be done. I'm not a big guy and have doen it. Not as young anymore and will use a transmission to do it now. Four bolts removed the transmission from the bell housing. Unlike the four speed the three has two bolts that are threaded out from the inside of the bell housing. Four speed all four are outside.
 
Have your :princess: loosen the last bolt or two and slide it back. It will suddenly drop, instantly reaching terminal velocity and driving your elbows down through your concrete shop floor. At this point you will have three options. You can let go and drop it on you sternum, or bend your elbows in either direction and drop it on your crotch, or on your face.



ALL 3 OF THESE OPTIONS SOUND HORRIBLE!!! Use a cherry picker or a trans jack!
 
Easy way:)
DSCN1727.webp
 
I took mine off by myself with a floor jack and a couple of 2x4s
but eventually fell to the garage floor......but putting it back on i told my friend i was having a barbeque at the house.....sure enough we were able to put it back on......if you have no help,best to tackle it from the top by removing the tranny hump and a engine hoist......but i would not even think about getting underneath that thing....
 
I guess sawtooth 55 was posting a picture while i was posting :)

Definetly the best way to do it............
 

Easier if you start with a longer chain so you can lower it down through the floor. It would be easier with an engine hoist that has a cross bar with a screw mechanism so you can tilt it down as you pull it apart.

As I recall, it's not exactly "easy" to clear the cross member, nor is it easy to put it back together and get the clutch alignment right and the throw-out bearing clipped on at the same time.
 
It's only 225 lbs. so jack the truck up slightly and lay on your back under the truck and with arms extended grasp the trans/t-case firmly on either side. Have your :princess: loosen the last bolt or two and slide it back. It will suddenly drop, instantly reaching terminal velocity and driving your elbows down through your concrete shop floor. At this point you will have three options. You can let go and drop it on you sternum, or bend your elbows in either direction and drop it on your crotch, or on your face.

Seriously, I would remove the trans/t-case as a unit for sure, but support the weight with a lift. You can't be too careful with that weight. It's 200+ lbs. that feels like 500.

This might possibly work to get it out. But you'll want the cherry picker or floor jack if you plan to put it back in. When I was younger, I used a rope, leverage, and a 2x4 from the top, and a floor jack underneath (4 speed).

Correct alignment will be key to getting it back in. If you've got a hoist and a proper transmission jack, leave the cover on.
 
Yes, starting with a chain long enough to get it to the floor definitely helps.I had to tilt the rear down to clear the cross member,but it came apart easy and went together fairly easy for a 1 man job.Connect the fork to the slave and it will hold the TO bearing in place.I used some 3" bolts to suck the tranny to bell housing
 
I have removed both from underneath by myself a few times. This isn't a H42 but a three speed which weights much less than the four speed. Not light but can be done. I'm not a big guy and have doen it. Not as young anymore and will use a transmission to do it now. Four bolts removed the transmission from the bell housing. Unlike the four speed the three has two bolts that are threaded out from the inside of the bell housing. Four speed all four are outside.
I have had a tough time finding info on how to remove a 3 speed transmission. I can see the 2 bolts at the top and the threaded bolts at the bottom. How to reach the threaded ones from the inside?
 
The ones from inside the bellhousing are easily accessible: remove the inspection cover if still there and a 17mm socket on a ratchet with no extension should fit.

The big nut on back of t-case, I’m assuming you’re talking about the one holding parking brake drum on. There’s a cotter pin in there as well (usually). When you pull that drum off, fluid will come out unless you’ve already drained the transfer case. Then unbolt the brake backing plate, shift linkages, transfer case vacuum hoses, transfer case wires, speedo cable and it’s ready to come out one of the aforementioned ways.
 
The ones from inside the bellhousing are easily accessible: remove the inspection cover if still there and a 17mm socket on a ratchet with no extension should fit.

The big nut on back of t-case, I’m assuming you’re talking about the one holding parking brake drum on. There’s a cotter pin in there as well (usually). When you pull that drum off, fluid will come out unless you’ve already drained the transfer case. Then unbolt the brake backing plate, shift linkages, transfer case vacuum hoses, transfer case wires, speedo cable and it’s ready to come out one of the aforementioned ways.
Great, man! That’s exactly what I need… I can get the transmission to shift but the Tcase is not going from high to low. It seems to be stuck, and my buddy has an extra H42….
 
Have you reached down from underneath and tried to shift the t-case? The linkage gets bent or otherwise out of adjustment and will have an issue like that: only go N and low or N and high. If you can shift it manually at the t case, then it’s a linkage issue.
 
Have you reached down from underneath and tried to shift the t-case? The linkage gets bent or otherwise out of adjustment and will have an issue like that: only go N and low or N and high. If you can shift it manually at the t case, then it’s a linkage issue.
I can go up to 2H and down to 4H, but trying to shift over (to the right) to go into 4Low is impossible. The linkage definitely needs some geometric work since the shifter is limited by the linkage movement (space along the shaft underneath), and maybe I need to disconnect that to see if just the high/low (on the top of the case itself) can shift in and out....?
 

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