Transmission Fluid That's Ok For 2000 Land Cruiser

[Les Summer]

I am having confusion about exactly what is ok transmission fluid to put in my 2000 Land Cruiser. I understand it's Dexron III, and I know this is cheating to ask this, but can anyone share a pic of a bottle of the transmission fluid they use, so I can go ahead and compare, for when I go to my local auto store and buy off the shelf.

I admit I already read into the forum on this subject, but I was left ever so slightly confused.. Thanks.

 

[2001LC]

My absolute favorite is: Mobil 1 Muilt Vehicle ATF full synthetic. Use it in all 98-02 100 series. Doing 12 qt flushes. They love it! Also all power steering reservoir.

 

[Les Summer]

My absolute favorite is: Mobil 1 Muilt Vehicle ATF full synthetic. Use it in all 98-02 100 series. Also all power steering reservoir.

View attachment 3312045

Thanks! wow, who's power steering reservoir is that clean?

 

[97 AZ LC]

I use - Robot or human? - https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-DEX-MERC-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid-ATF-1-GA/15125788 - good fashion Dexron III, exactly what the factory calls for.

 

[SteveH]

Gallons of DEX III from Walmart work just fine. $20/gallon or so.

 

[97 AZ LC]

What's a bit confusing here is that it's not called Dexron III anymore. GM owned the rights to the name, licensed it to others, and then discontinued use and cancelled all the licenses. So nobody can call it Dexron III anymore, has to be called something else but the container can say that it's for vehicles that "formerly used Dexron III".

 

[2001LC]

My absolute favorite is: Mobil 1 Muilt Vehicle ATF full synthetic. Use it in all 98-02 100 series. Also all power steering reservoir.

View attachment 3312045

All 100 & 200 series power steering reservoirs I work on, are that clean .
I start by removing & cleaning the reservoir in a sonic-cleaner w/de-greaser. Removing old gunk settlement in bottom and cleans the internal screen.

Steering Flush & Cleaning

Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition. These step will help you get, a better idea on how to. Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with...

forum.ih8mud.com

BTW: Toyota ATF is made by Exon Mobil. Toyota & Lexus Dealerships around here, used Mobil One ATF. When they've a transmission that calls for Dexron II or III, that's running hot. Otherwise they use bulk Dexron III (98-02 100 series). I use Mobil One ATF for all 98-02, full 12 qt flushes. Or the Exxon Mobil one shelve down; Mobil MV ATF full synthetic, for all 98-up. It's (Mobil MV FS ATF) new and rated for Dexon II & III, Toyota IV and WS. I'd use Mobil One in all. But Mobil One has NOT rated it for: Toyota IV or WS, in North American market.
EDIT: 7/27/25 I'm now questioning the use of Mobil MV FS ATF. I've emailed questions to upper level tech support at Mobil, not being answered. CONCERNING!

Mobil One is top shelve and readily available thorough North America.
Mobil MV AFT FS, is still hard to get.

 

[Green77]

My absolute favorite is: Mobil 1 Muilt Vehicle ATF full synthetic. Use it in all 98-02 100 series. Doing 12 qt flushes. They love it! Also all power steering reservoir.

View attachment 3312045

If I was to do just a drain and fill would I need to get the old dex III or could I use Mobil One MV ATF and mix it with the old? I’m looking to do a drain and fill or two with the transmission and a full flush of the power steering. Lx 470 2001.

 

[2001LC]

You can add Mobil One, to your AT, with its "deno" Dex I, II, III or IV. But, who knows what has been added in D&Fs, over the years. There lines the issue. Mixing of fluid of unknown quality.

You'll get best results and have longest AT life, doing a full 12 qt flush.

In the unlikely event, the AT fails afterward. You have a bad one anyway!

I've done more full 12qt flushes, than I can remember. I have had, only good results. Improvement in shifting and lower ATF temp, using Mobil 1. in the 98-02 100 series.

 

[Green77]

You can add Mobil One, to your AT, with its "deno" Dex I, II, III or IV. But, who knows what has been added in D&Fs, over the years. There lines the issue. Mixing of fluid of unknown quality.

You'll get best results and have longest AT life, doing a full 12 qt flush.

In the unlikely event, the AT fails afterward. You have a bad one anyway!

I've done more full 12qt flushes, than I can remember. I have had, only good results. Improvement in shifting and lower ATF temp, using Mobil 1. in the 98-02 100 series.

Thanks. Completely random follow up question my girlfriend used the car yesterday to go shopping and left the lights on so it was dead today I just jumped it … went to go drive and now it won’t shift into drive it will do everything else like reverse, neutral, and 2nd and even drives fine in 2 but it won’t engage drive the light won’t even show up on the dashboard. I think it has to be something to do with the jump right as has been working fine until I just jumped it have you any ideas what is going on?

 

[2001LC]

Thanks. Completely random follow up question my girlfriend used the car yesterday to go shopping and left the lights on so it was dead today I just jumped it … went to go drive and now it won’t shift into drive it will do everything else like reverse, neutral, and 2nd and even drives fine in 2 but it won’t engage drive the light won’t even show up on the dashboard. I think it has to be something to do with the jump right as has been working fine until I just jumped it have you any ideas what is going on?

Often D bulbs are burnt out, which doesn't affect shifting. Could be, you just now noticed D out!

I've never seen a case of dead battery, resulting in D not working once engine running.

Your wanted to add M1 ATF to A/T during a drain and fill. Was there some reason why at this time or just a PM?

 

[Green77]

Often D bulbs are burnt out, which doesn't affect s***ting. Could be, you just now noticed D out!

I've never seen a case of dead battery, resulting in D not working once engine running.

Your wanted to add M1 ATF to A/T during a drain and fill. Was there some reason why at this time or just a PM?

It’s just a strange coincidence that I was asking about ATF when this issue happened I have bought the car recently and am planning on replacing all the fluids soon. I’ve had the car a few months everything has been working fine until the jump last night and now the car refuses to go into drive the light was working fine before hand and lights works for all the other modes. It was making a strange sound when in the area it should be for drive and was extremely underpowered that’s when I noticed it wasn’t fully engaged into drive. When I have it in say 2nd it drives but I am getting the battery light in the bottom left each time I accelerate seems funky I think it has to be related to an electrical issue as it was fine and since the dead battery and jump is not maybe something got tripped or burnt out the car alarm went off on the jump. I just ordered an OBD2 scanner will review the codes for you

 

[Nightbrew]

It’s just a strange coincidence that I was asking about ATF when this issue happened I have bought the car recently and am planning on replacing all the fluids soon. I’ve had the car a few months everything has been working fine until the jump last night and now the car refuses to go into drive the light was working fine before hand and lights works for all the other modes. It was making a strange sound when in the area it should be for drive and was extremely underpowered that’s when I noticed it wasn’t fully engaged into drive. When I have it in say 2nd it drives but I am getting the battery light in the bottom left each time I accelerate seems funky I think it has to be related to an electrical issue as it was fine and since the dead battery and jump is not maybe something got tripped or burnt out the car alarm went off on the jump. I just ordered an OBD2 scanner will review the codes for you

I would start by checking voltage at the battery, both running and with the rig off. You may have a bad battery and/or alternator.

 

[2001LC]

For sure check the battery and alternator as @Nightbrew suggest.

Make sure to check the voltage, directly on battery posts. Then make sure you get the same voltage, when checking at other points (away from battery post). If voltage drops, your connection is inhibited. Like oxidation or some film on battery post, loose connection. Perhaps, corrosion in wire block hanging off positive post or loose contact. Make sure to check wire lug and plug on alternator, for proper and sung fit.

But charging system issue, doesn't explain loss of D light, or lack of power in D and working in other gears (2nd, 1st and R)

Sounds like you have multiple issues. Code reading, is a very good idea. Let's us know what you find, both current and pending.

It’s just a strange coincidence that I was asking about ATF when this issue happened I have bought the car recently and am planning on replacing all the fluids soon. I’ve had the car a few months everything has been working fine until the jump last night and now the car refuses to go into drive the light was working fine before hand and lights works for all the other modes. It was making a strange sound when in the area it should be for drive and was extremely underpowered that’s when I noticed it wasn’t fully engaged into drive.

So it was moving in D, but just barely with little effect when pressing gas pedal. Was RPM going up?

D light out, may be coincidence.

When I have it in say 2nd it drives but I am getting the battery light in the bottom left each time I accelerate seems funky I think it has to be related to an electrical issue as it was fine and since the dead battery and jump is not maybe something got tripped or burnt out the car alarm went off on the jump. I just ordered an OBD2 scanner will review the codes for you

I suggest you start a new thread, to get additional eyeballs on these issue! This is now far removed from OP.

If you don't see me in new thread. Feel free to hit me with a DM (PM), linking to your new thread.

 

[Green77]

For sure check the battery and alternator as @Nightbrew suggest.

Make sure to check the voltage, directly on battery posts. Then make sure you get the same voltage, when checking at other points (away from battery post). If voltage drops, your connection is inhibited. Like oxidation or some film on battery post, loose connection. Perhaps, corrosion in wire block hanging off positive post or loose contact. Make sure to check wire lug and plug on alternator, for proper and sung fit.

But charging system issue, doesn't explain loss of D light, or lack of power in D and working in other gears (2nd, 1st and R)

Sounds like you have multiple issues. Code reading, is a very good idea. Let's us know what you find, both current and pending.


So it was moving in D, but just barely with little effect when pressing gas pedal. Was RPM going up?

D light out, may be coincidence.



I suggest you start a new thread, to get additional eyeballs on these issue! This is now far removed from OP.

If you don't see me in new thread. Feel free to hit me with a DM (PM), linking to your new thread.

Hey,

So I charged the battery over night to full and started the car up and now it doesn’t seem to have any issues with shifting it to drive light still is not working… but I do still have a permanent red battery light and whining noise coming from the engine I think it’s the alternator?! I got no codes when I checked. Thanks for the help I don’t really want to have to pay for a new alternator but it seems like the most likely issue so I had a AAA guy come out to check the voltage and he said it was showing around 12.5 volts when running and thinks it’s the alternator…

 

[Green77]

I would start by checking voltage at the battery, both running and with the rig off. You may have a bad battery and/or alternator.

Battery is only a few weeks old I think the alternator is cooked was making a whining sound and was pulling 12.5 volts running apparently per AAA he didn’t say a number for when it was off I should of asked

 

[Nightbrew]

Battery is only a few weeks old I think the alternator is cooked was making a whining sound and was pulling 12.5 volts running apparently per AAA he didn’t say a number for when it was off I should of asked

Info makes it sound like alternator issue. Replacement is not terribly difficult or costly. You should be seeing 14+volts if the alternator is functioning properly. I can't imagine that the "D" light is related, but I have been wrong many times before. Personally I would say you are lucky that you don't have to look at the bright green glow any longer.

 

[ninedude]

All 100 & 200 series power steering reservoirs I work on, are that clean .
I start by removing & cleaning the reservoir in a sonic-cleaner w/de-greaser. Removing old gunk settlement in bottom and cleans the internal screen.

Steering Flush & Cleaning

Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition. These step will help you get, a better idea on how to. Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with...

forum.ih8mud.com

BTW: Toyota ATF is made by Exon Mobil. Toyota & Lexus Dealerships around here, used Mobil One ATF. When they've a transmission that calls for Dexron II or III, that's running hot. Otherwise they use bulk Dexron III (98-02 100 series). I use Mobil One ATF for all 98-02, full 12 qt flushes. Or the Exxon Mobil one shelve down; Mobil MV ATF full synthetic, for all 98-up. It's (Mobil MV FS ATF) new and rated for Dexon II & III, Toyota IV and WS. I'd use Mobil One in all. But Mobil One has NOT rated it for: Toyota IV or WS, in North American market.

Mobil One is top shelve and readily available thorough North America.
Mobil MV AFT FS, is still hard to get.

I bought 14 quarts of Mobil One MV for a 99LC I was going to flush, but then I got an 06 LC. I am trying to gauge how bad of an idea it would be to use this fluid for the 06 transmission.