Transmission fill hole thread fell apart (1 Viewer)

[Eyeorg]

Hi All - I got a 60 series a few months back. Total newb, long story, but I've been trying to fix her up as a hobby to give me something to do and learn about cars finally.

I have been using the forums to do all sorts of work, so thanks for all the help. Replaced the PCV valve, exhaust header, charcoal canister, and a few other things. Stock 2f Engine with 220K miles on it. Ill do an introduction soon.

This time around I was doing an oil change on the diffs, the transfer and transmission. I have everything filled back up, except when threading the transmission fill plug it would not tighten. I took a closer look, and found what I am worried is a disaster....

Looking for advice on what options I have.

Somehow the inner thread on the fill plug has fallen apart, and the fill plug never tightens fully.

 

[Godwin]

That's the transfer case and it's aluminum and the threads could easily be stripped out if over tightened.

 

[Eyeorg]

Sorry, transfer case fill hole. Thanks! I would edit the post, but cant because I am a newb I think.

I definitely didnt over tighten but clearly I was the last one fidling with it. I set my torque wrench to 30ftlb and after a couple turns it just kept turning.

 

[Eyeorg]

Thanks Godwin for setting my naming straight. Once I searched for Transfer case i found a helpful thread.

Looks like I may not be alone on this one....

Stripped threads on transfer filler hole

The previous owner left us a nice little surprise that we discovered last night. When we got the 60, the PO said he just changed all the oil in the transfer, transmission, and diffs....so it was lower on our priority list of things to check. Mike had noticed some very minor weeping of oil around...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[3_puppies]

I had one years ago that was tapped to 1/2"? pipe thread
just used caution when installing the plug as pipe is a tapered fit.

you can remove the PTO cover on the side and catch all the shavings

saw 1 that had a aluminum coupler welded to the case

 

[Eyeorg]

I am leaning towards having a shop weld a bung onto it. This seems like the easiest and most permanent fix. Especially if it can be done while the case is on the car.

 

[cruisermatt]

I am leaning towards having a shop weld a bung onto it. This seems like the easiest and most permanent fix. Especially if it can be done while the case is on the car.

If you can find someone who can do it, great, but ,most welders who are capable of doing that probably aren't going to want to, you are most likely going to need to remove the rear case half and clean it and have it done on a workbench. Or replace the housing with a new or good used replacement half.
The quick fix is usually tap it for NPT until you get to being ready to do a full teardown

 

[dbbowen]

If you can find someone who can do it, great, but ,most welders who are capable of doing that probably aren't going to want to, you are most likely going to need to remove the rear case half and clean it and have it done on a workbench. Or replace the housing with a new or good used replacement half.
The quick fix is usually tap it for NPT until you get to being ready to do a full teardown

agree. 1000000% going to need to take it off and do it on the bench. Nissan and Toyota cast aluminum from the 80s is so filled with junk that even if it was a brand new case it would be difficult to weld and would need a bunch of passes for the AC cleaning action to do its thing. Id say for a used case it would need to be torched, a bunch of non filler passes done, then a torch again and sanding it, just to get the oil and contaminants out....then a bead could be put down. Dude would be better off finding a used case shell from somewhere like you or valley hybrids

 

[cruisermatt]

agree. 1000000% going to need to take it off and do it on the bench. Nissan and Toyota cast aluminum from the 80s is so filled with junk that even if it was a brand new case it would be difficult to weld and would need a bunch of passes for the AC cleaning action to do its thing. Id say for a used case it would need to be torched, a bunch of non filler passes done, then a torch again and sanding it, just to get the oil and contaminants out....then a bead could be put down. Dude would be better off finding a used case shell from somewhere like valley hybrids

They weld just fine. I weld them regularly, repairing exactly this... after we run them through the parts washer and vapor hone though. But is a full-time welder going to want to get under someone's nasty truck? Probably not

I also have new and good used case halves in stock

 

[dbbowen]

They weld just fine. I weld them regularly, repairing exactly this... after we run them through the parts washer and vapor hone though. But is a full-time welder going to want to get under someone's nasty truck? Probably not

I also have new and good used case halves in stock

replacing the case halves is definitely the move. Just about every 1980s japanese cast aluminum repair or project ive ever done has had issues with porosity if you get down into the weld.

 

[dbbowen]

even well into the 1990s. This is a VVTI 1JZ intake plenum that i put a modern throttle body on and even after hours of cleaning and smoothening and refilling, i gave up at this point.

replacing the case shell is the move haha

 

[Eyeorg]

They weld just fine. I weld them regularly, repairing exactly this... after we run them through the parts washer and vapor hone though. But is a full-time welder going to want to get under someone's nasty truck? Probably not

I also have new and good used case halves in stock

Good point, its a small job, so I doubt anyone that does it for a living would want to take on this work...however, Im wondering if I can find someone that is looking for side gigs. I am assuming this is something fairly minor and doesnt need to much "quality" welding to really hold....

What are you selling them for? Maybe I can pick one up now and plan for a rebuild later.

 

[Eyeorg]

The quick fix is usually tap it for NPT until you get to being ready to do a full teardown

looking at the picture closer, am I wrong to think that even a tap wouldnt work? It appears the metal is broken off all the way to the base at the top, meaning the tap would also be missing the top part of the aluminum

 

[Eyeorg]

This is a VVTI 1JZ intake plenum that i put a modern throttle body on and even after hours of cleaning and smoothening and refilling, i gave up at this point.

Is this comparable?

In my case it is simply related to the oil fill hole, which is not pressurized, and the oil level "should" be below the hole. It seems like in my case, welding a coupler to the case would be fairly superficial in nature and hold in what needs to be held in?

 

[SteveH]

How about a rubber expansion plug sold for stripped out oil pans? It's not holding back any pressure. There are many styles of rubber expansion plugs - this is just one:

https://www.autozone.com/external-engine/oil-drain-plug/p/needa-parts-1-2in-universal-oil-drain-plug/256832_0_0

 

[dbbowen]

Is this comparable?

In my case it is simply related to the oil fill hole, which is not pressurized, and the oil level "should" be below the hole. It seems like in my case, welding a coupler to the case would be fairly superficial in nature and hold in what needs to be held in?

Id say it is. You're talking about a plug that holds fluid in. If you fill the case right, the liquid should be slightly above the lower lip of the fill plug and pouring out a little bit. Then when you drive your oil slingers are flinging oil all over the place. It also gets hot. A used case shell doesnt cost that much, and someone who could tig that hole, then re thread it will charge you about 130/hr and it will definitely be a couple of hours. Why not just get a known good condition used case shell and not worry about trying to band aid it. You can remove and replace the Tcase while its still in the truck and you could do it in a few hours. Youd have to remove the outer half anyways to get it welded. I posted that intake not to show how comparable it is, but that is maximum effort and multiple hours of trying to fill holes and sand then fill holes and sand to get it absolutely perfect... as you can see, absolutely perfect doesnt exist with welding old cast aluminum.

Theres nothing stopping that weld from cracking at the haz from the porosity and heat cycles when you tighten the fill plug months or even years from now too. Just seems like the juice isnt worth the squeeze here.

 

[Eyeorg]

Id say it is. You're talking about a plug that holds fluid in. If you fill the case right, the liquid should be slightly above the lower lip of the fill plug and pouring out a little bit. Then when you drive your oil slingers are flinging oil all over the place. It also gets hot. A used case shell doesnt cost that much, and someone who could tig that hole, then re thread it will charge you about 130/hr and it will definitely be a couple of hours. Why not just get a known good condition used case shell and not worry about trying to band aid it. You can remove and replace the Tcase while its still in the truck and you could do it in a few hours. Youd have to remove the outer half anyways to get it welded. I posted that intake not to show how comparable it is, but that is maximum effort and multiple hours of trying to fill holes and sand then fill holes and sand to get it absolutely perfect... as you can see, absolutely perfect doesnt exist with welding cast aluminum.

Theres nothing stopping that weld from cracking at the haz from the porosity and heat cycles when you tighten the fill plug months or even years from now too. Just seems like the juice isnt worth the squeeze here.

Thanks DBBowen! I appreciate the feedback. Your assumption that I could replace the Tcase in a few hours though is a BIG assumption I dont know whats inside or how to get it off, but from my viewpoint it looks like more than I can handle in a weekend..LOL.

How about a rubber expansion plug sold for stripped out oil pans? It's not holding back any pressure. There are many styles of rubber expansion plugs - this is just one:

https://www.autozone.com/external-engine/oil-drain-plug/p/needa-parts-1-2in-universal-oil-drain-plug/256832_0_0

Great idea SteveH, this is a solid band-aid I think. Maybe my best option, if it holds then I have no concerns leaving it there until something more major is needed. I will check this out for sure

 

[dbbowen]

Thanks DBBowen! I appreciate the feedback. Your assumption that I could replace the Tcase in a few hours though is a BIG assumption I dont know whats inside or how to get it off, but from my viewpoint it looks like more than I can handle in a weekend..LOL.



Great idea SteveH, this is a solid band-aid I think. Maybe my best option, if it holds then I have no concerns leaving it there until something more major is needed. I will check this out for sure

dude you got this.

 

[BGarcia88FJ62]

Yea, if your going to split the case to replace the rear of the case. You may as well rebuild the case for piece of mind.