Transfer Case Rebuild with new gears

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Pics of new torque converter seal and rear transmission housing with the broken bolt removed.
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Installed the extension housing with red FIPG, a replacement bolt, and torqued to spec at 24 ft/lbs.
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Info on the red FIPG and sensor installed at 4ft/lbs. My daughter is super excited to work on the 80.
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You can pull that yourself.


Just register the VIN to your account and all the dealer service shows up.
I thought I’d try to log in again after not being able to. I set up a different account and found only 2 records of my 80 ever going to a dealer. But, the trans TSB was not listed.
 
Pulled the pan, marked the bolt locations on cardboard, and adjusted the line pressure dial. Thanks @Tools R Us for the thread.
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So, the pan was very clean with minimal graphite on the magnets. Removed the valve body to perform the TSB.
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When lifting the top of the valve body, hold the plate tightly with it, flip it over, and then remove. Looking at the check balls I discovered that what was there didn’t match the TIS diagram for the A343F. One ball was missing and one was in a different location. I read on an older thread that another mud member ran into a similar scenario of check balls not matching. Post #6
Then I found this thread with a picture of the check balls just like mine. If you look closely in the bottom left of the lower valve body you can see the check ball on the other side of the plate and in the top plate one in another location in post #1.
I printed the TIS today so it should be the latest update but this is perplexing.
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Here’s the picture of the lower value body check balls but only shows T100. The Land Cruiser has just 1 in the corner.
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Installed the transmission mount. Torqued to 54 ft/lbs per the FSM.
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Can we get a list of bearings and seals needed for a rebuild? I know Cruiser TEQ has a kit, but I have several seals and bearings in hand and would rather piece together the rest.
 
So how did the gears turn out? I'm getting ready to install the same combo in mine.
 
Long term update: Gears are fantastic! It should've come this way from the factory. I did end up removing the viscous couple as it was almost completely locked up. I haven't really missed it to say the least.
 
One thing that’s interesting is that even though the underdrive gears get your RPMs close to stock, the speedometer is off. I had an electronic box to correct that and it had a short causing the speedometer to jump sky high. At slow speeds the transmission would go into overdrive and the truck would nearly stall. So, transmission shifting is definitely affected by the speedometer. I decided to replace the box with a Lutz box. In the picture you can see that you unplug the plug from the speed sensor and it splices in between with connectors. Above shows the black box zip tied at the parking brake cable.

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Long term update. Have just about 30k on the case with all new bearings and gears. Happy to report hardly a spec on the magnet found during oil change. Really impressive for aftermarket gears.
 
Just drained the transmission fluid and it looks really great too. I figured with 330,000 miles on the transmission, she’ll get a lot of love. Fluid not quite as bright red but still looks really great. And who knows if it was ever changed before I picked it up at 301,000 miles. 5 quarts came out.
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Interesting how the drain plug torque in the book is 15 foot pounds but at around 11 it feels pretty good and tight to me.
 
Stepped up from TE-468 to the new TE-668 Allison spec after verifying continued transmission and seal compatibility with Tom Johnson. A quick shout out to him and thank you for his help. It’s a great alternative to no longer licensed GM Dexron III. It won’t shear down like Dexron.
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