This is great. I bought a used case when I bought my 60 (PO said mine had thrown output bearing while going down I64), it was the reason I was able to get it so cheap. Not knowing anthing about cruisers yet, I knew I would be better of to just do a swap, but I have had the other t-case sitting in my shop in pieces and want to rebuild it in case its ever needed in the future. These pics are fantastic. Thank you.
Transfer Assembly with Pictures (9 Viewers)
- Thread starter FJ60Seth
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Seth, there is a lot of wear on the output shaft spline (and there will also be wear on the shift collar and the hi-range gear). It's visible in this pic. Maybe it will run OK, or maybe it will kick out of gear occasionally. Everything else looks good. 
Hey Jim,
I don't see the wear on the output splines (to the right of the bearing cone, right?)
What are you looking at that I'm missing?
I see what you mean about the shift hub, though- those splines look like they're
almost done...
t
I don't see the wear on the output splines (to the right of the bearing cone, right?)
What are you looking at that I'm missing?
I see what you mean about the shift hub, though- those splines look like they're
almost done...
t
Just a question about the unused bolt hole (directly below the output shaft in the first pic) for the spacer on the front half of the tcase. I know this needs to be blocked off when bolted directly to a H55 but what about when it's bolted to the toybox? Is the toybox solid at that location?
Great pics by the way
Tony
Great pics by the way
Tony
This will be useful in a few weeks. Thanks for the pics!
Great pics, man! Thanx. If you ever do an H55, keep your camera at hand.
We really should have these kind of pics for all overhauls. Would make the life of a cruiserhead a lot easier
We really should have these kind of pics for all overhauls. Would make the life of a cruiserhead a lot easier
output shaft nut needs to be staked. not sure if you are the final torque value point though, but I would hate for you to miss it.
thanks for all the good pics. I get to do this sometime too...
thanks for all the good pics. I get to do this sometime too...
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
good pics and info for a lot of fellow mudders.....
on the output shaft, make sure you don't forget the small shim between the speedo gear and rear output yoke.
also, get a lever bolted to the high-low selector or it's going to fall into the case. there's nothing stopping it from doing so.......and you'll have to tear the case back apart to get it in there again.
hth
georg @ valley hybrids
on the output shaft, make sure you don't forget the small shim between the speedo gear and rear output yoke.
also, get a lever bolted to the high-low selector or it's going to fall into the case. there's nothing stopping it from doing so.......and you'll have to tear the case back apart to get it in there again.
hth
georg @ valley hybrids
Gotta love those clean pics.
I don't think a press is needed for the T-case, only the transmission.
I don't think a press is needed for the T-case, only the transmission.
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
you can do i without a press but replacing the bearings on the output cluster is definetly easier with a press.
hth
georg
Great info! Subscribed.
rover67
SILVER Star
If you are talking about the area I circled, that's what my brand new output shaft looked like from Toyota.
It looked to have been formed that way from the factory.
It looked to have been formed that way from the factory.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
great thread thanks for that ..
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Correct, the shift hub spline on the output shaft, not the rear spline.
When the spline shoulder is very eroded like that, it is easy for the shift collar to walk around on the spline, and it will tend to walk off the gear and into neutral. Slide the collar the other way to expose the low-range side of the shift spline, and the difference between the unworn low side and the very worn high side will be visible. also inspect the inside of the shift hub, it's usually worn in a corresponding fashion.
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You can actually can get it out with a strong magnet as long as it is still in the hole. I have done it. The case is aluminum and the shaft is steel so the magnet just grabs the shaft. But YES, get the bracket on ASAP!
Dynosoar
Jim
I took a look at an 83 tcase in my shop and I looked at the splines in mine and they look just like that one in the pics. But here is what makes it interesting, moving the collar shows the same wear patterns on both high and low sides of the hub gear and it is on both directions of each tooth. I don't think it was run in reverse enough to wear the gears.
Can you fill me in as to why it is this way? I know you have been in far more tcases than I have so I am interested in your insight into this. Sorry about the pic quality, best I could get out of the camera
Tony
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Just did mine...when I took the tcase apart there was no shim next to the speedo gear. Does anyone have a pic of it installed?
Thanks
Thanks
