Here is the shim in front of the speedo gear, manual actually calls it a washer.
Tony
Tony
Transfer Assembly with Pictures (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter FJ60Seth
- Start date
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EPC calls it a "Plate Washer" (for Speedometer Gear Drive)
Part # 90201-35002 '82-'87
Part # 90201-35002 '82-'87
Great stuff!
Thanks, Seth for starting this thread and for the great pics. This is turning into a real resource. Maybe warrant a sticky at some point.
My question is on setting the preload on the TC output shaft. My case is back together thanks to some parts from Georg and this is where I am at. Here is what I gather from the manual:
1. Install rear bearing carrier WITH NO GASKET.
2. Torque barrier bolts to 25ftlbs.
3. Install nut on TC output shaft and set torque wrench to about 20 inch pounds. If it clicks there is too much preload and a shim change may be in order. FSM says that a going down one shim size will reduce preload by 10 inch pounds.
After you get this set you then install the rear bearing carrier with the gasket, put thread sealer on the six bolts and torque.
Seth, is this what you did?
Anyone else feel free to chime in.
Thanks, Seth for starting this thread and for the great pics. This is turning into a real resource. Maybe warrant a sticky at some point.
My question is on setting the preload on the TC output shaft. My case is back together thanks to some parts from Georg and this is where I am at. Here is what I gather from the manual:
1. Install rear bearing carrier WITH NO GASKET.
2. Torque barrier bolts to 25ftlbs.
3. Install nut on TC output shaft and set torque wrench to about 20 inch pounds. If it clicks there is too much preload and a shim change may be in order. FSM says that a going down one shim size will reduce preload by 10 inch pounds.
After you get this set you then install the rear bearing carrier with the gasket, put thread sealer on the six bolts and torque.
Seth, is this what you did?
Anyone else feel free to chime in.
There is a difference between a torque meter and a torque wrench. Torque meter is similar to the old style bar indicator torque wrench and it is what is used by the manual. Early manual I have calls it a spring scale and my FJ62 manual calls it a torque meter.
You are trying to measure the constant load on the bearing which is what the torque meter is meant to do. I don't think you can accurately set the preload with a clicker torque wrench... Anybody else?
Tony
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
You can actually can get it out with a strong magnet as long as it is still in the hole. I have done it. The case is aluminum and the shaft is steel so the magnet just grabs the shaft. But YES, get the bracket on ASAP!
Dynosoar
i bet that was fun!
how many new curse words did you come up with during that "procedure"?! 
Yup. Did a little more googling and see what the scoop is on setting the preload. Looks like a beam-style torque wrench will work.
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
hward1
87 fj60 / 95 fjz80
i wish i had this post 2 months ago before doing mine -- i know the pics will help many members - thanks to georg i got her done
hward1
87 fj60 / 95 fjz80
got a inch pound off ebay for that step -- old sears style still in box from the sixties -- cheap
Don't get me wrong, guys, but why is everybody so "obesessed" (sorry) with preload? Is it really so important? I mean, this is a serious question, because I don't want my cruiser to go down earlier than neccesary.
Yes.
Too much and the bearing will have too much pressure on them and will prematurely fail, too little and the bearings will have some "play" and will prematurely fail.
bump for the best tcase rebuild thread o mud..
rover67
SILVER Star
I am interested in knowing if this is the area Jim was referring to as well. As I said in a previous post, I got a brand new output shaft from Toyota and it looked just like the one I pulled out and the ones in these pictures. I got a new one because I posted up and asked if it looked worn and everybody said yes.
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I thought it looked like the shift splines were pretty worn in the first pic.
Maybe they were not as worn as I thought. They can get worn to the point where the flat on top of the spline almost disappears. And the teeth in the shift collar will also show the same wear.
Tip of the day: If you're doing a low budget rebuild, the shift collar can be flipped around so the unworn low gear splines are in contact w/ the high gear.
Maybe they were not as worn as I thought. They can get worn to the point where the flat on top of the spline almost disappears. And the teeth in the shift collar will also show the same wear.
Tip of the day: If you're doing a low budget rebuild, the shift collar can be flipped around so the unworn low gear splines are in contact w/ the high gear.
bump it up
so how the heck do you get the shift bracket that stickes out of the top of the case to stay long enough for you to hook up the linkage to it. Mine keeps falling back into the case. I am thinking of resorting to putting some rtv into the hole the bracket goes into hoping it will keep it from falling back into the case long enough for me to install the linkage bracket up top.
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
Use your left hand to apply pressure to the little shift shaft from the side. I use a flat blade screw driver. Then slip the lever on with your right hand. Pretty simple really.
Georg
Georg
lol i never thought of that. Goes to show how much experience u have.
tonight i slay the dragon!
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
You really shouldn't talk about your wife this way on a public forum!
Georg
Georg
