- Thread starter
- #21
Yeah, I think I'm going to give it a go with a 10k/dual brakes without a weight distribution/sway hitch. I'll do some local towing to see how it all feels. I can always move up the food chain if need be.
Thanks
Trailering a 60...
- Thread starter woytovich
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Yeah, I think I'm going to give it a go with a 10k/dual brakes without a weight distribution/sway hitch. I'll do some local towing to see how it all feels. I can always move up the food chain if need be.
Thanks
you will not need a distribution/sway hitch.... most of those apply to large camper dual axle heavy trailers that the fly through the wind like a brick... I've been thousands of miles with my former sub...it was a non issue.
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- #24
Well if I BUILD a storage box rather than BUY one I'll look at making it work for both purposes. Some of the ones pictured are not so deep as to make accessing the front axle difficult..... food for (later) thought, maybe.
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- #26
Found this thread... reading it now....
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/7k-or-10k-trailer.620230/page-4#post-7934144
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/7k-or-10k-trailer.620230/page-4#post-7934144
see my post #78 and related (on the thread you linked)... axle straps (attached to the front axle using axle straps) and the ratchet straps to d rings in the best...pulling straight down to the bed. On the rear I do basically the same thing except I cross the straps (x pattern). Pictures reflect what works. I've modified my trailer a little bit from that older pic...
I did get my friend to make me some tie-down points which he welded to the rear axle so now I connect to the tie-down points on the rear axle rather than using axle straps but the principle is the same. I carry extra axle straps in case something happens and I'm waiting on my friend to make up some d-ring pull-downs that mount in the stake pockets (you can see pics of that on PJ trailers web site and some others) of similar design.
I also have a safety chain on the front and rear... never had a problem with this. I would like to tailer the pull-downs to the vehicle (how and where they are mounted on the trailer) but that's just something I might do in the future. I would rather have the rear d rings on the trailer closer to the rear of the truck...but that's an observation.
I get the straps tight and check them one or twice on a long trip...and I may have to tighten one or two by one click or so...due to settling. THe 60 does not move around and the configuration / setup has been the best I've experienced...all I really have to pay careful attention to now is my gas gauge on the pickup...trailer tracks well, and loaded vehicle stays fixed. The chains are there for safety and hopefully if something breaks...I can get stopped before things get bad...never had that happen, but know things do happen.
I did get my friend to make me some tie-down points which he welded to the rear axle so now I connect to the tie-down points on the rear axle rather than using axle straps but the principle is the same. I carry extra axle straps in case something happens and I'm waiting on my friend to make up some d-ring pull-downs that mount in the stake pockets (you can see pics of that on PJ trailers web site and some others) of similar design.
I also have a safety chain on the front and rear... never had a problem with this. I would like to tailer the pull-downs to the vehicle (how and where they are mounted on the trailer) but that's just something I might do in the future. I would rather have the rear d rings on the trailer closer to the rear of the truck...but that's an observation.
I get the straps tight and check them one or twice on a long trip...and I may have to tighten one or two by one click or so...due to settling. THe 60 does not move around and the configuration / setup has been the best I've experienced...all I really have to pay careful attention to now is my gas gauge on the pickup...trailer tracks well, and loaded vehicle stays fixed. The chains are there for safety and hopefully if something breaks...I can get stopped before things get bad...never had that happen, but know things do happen.
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I put the short axle straps round the leaf springs in front of the rear axle and in back of the front axle. I cross them down to the trailer tie down loops. On my Jeeps I would always put them around the axle tubes but there isn't enough room to get them under the brake lines on the FJ60 and I don't want to crush those lines so that is why I loop them around the leaf springs on the side of the axle that is towards the center of the rig.
Im a little late to this but I have been towing cruisers (60s, 40s, 80s) for a long time all over the country. I have currently have a F350 cclb srw and a 20x8.5 10k trailer. Trailer has balanced E load tires at 80 psi. I used to tow with out a weight distribution hitch and sway. Truck didn't really need it or so I thought. I swear by them now and use them every time I have a truck on the trailer. I have converted many people over to a WD hitch that thought they never needed one. The ride quality is night and day different. If someone tells you it doesnt help they dont have it set up properly. I have had my set up with a dumptruck on the back up to 100mph and I constantly run up and down 81 with the cruise set on 80. As far as backing up I usually hop out and pop the bars and sway off. 30 seconds and back in the truck. But I rarely put my self in the position where I need to back up. Always park where im facing out.
As far as a wind screen on the trailer I wouldn't as said by others I will be a pain in your ass. If you were hauling a fancy car then yeah I would only as a rock protector but its not going to affect your mpg enough and they are a pain to work around. I have a tongue box and a tool box on the front of the bed on mine to carry spare parts. I position a truck on the trailer over the axles and compress the suspension. Strait straps to the tow hooks on the front then cross the straps on the back going to tow hooks. The pic below is from about 6 years ago
As far as a wind screen on the trailer I wouldn't as said by others I will be a pain in your ass. If you were hauling a fancy car then yeah I would only as a rock protector but its not going to affect your mpg enough and they are a pain to work around. I have a tongue box and a tool box on the front of the bed on mine to carry spare parts. I position a truck on the trailer over the axles and compress the suspension. Strait straps to the tow hooks on the front then cross the straps on the back going to tow hooks. The pic below is from about 6 years ago
- Thread starter
- #30
Thanks for the info. I THINK I am going to start without the WD and see how it goes... but if the change in drivability is that big it sounds like a REALLY good idea. You know the kind of roads I will be driving - hills, traffic etc... so thanks for the perspective.
I would find a WD to borrow to see the difference. If you were closer you could try one of mine. Other than driving in NYC we would drive the same roads.
There's one thing to be learned here; a 60 on a trailer, not turned on, still can't pass a gas station without stopping. 
Nice trailer!
Nice trailer. looks like a 16' deck? and room on the front for a tool box.
there a reason you have jack stands under the back?
there a reason you have jack stands under the back?
- Thread starter
- #37
It is 18'
Support is the recommendation from the supplier on their web site. It may be the lawyers talking but I figure better sale than sorry, at least until I am convinced otherwise.
"GVWR 10,000 lb. - Capacity 8,500 lb. with 1,500 lb. Hitchload Ramp Capacity 8,500 lb. (Must support rear of trailer when loading)"
Support is the recommendation from the supplier on their web site. It may be the lawyers talking but I figure better sale than sorry, at least until I am convinced otherwise.
"GVWR 10,000 lb. - Capacity 8,500 lb. with 1,500 lb. Hitchload Ramp Capacity 8,500 lb. (Must support rear of trailer when loading)"
I would want to see what happens without the jack stands....surely there is not that much flex in the trailer...given the length and axle location. Always set your parking brake when loading or unloading...thats about the only thing I do. One day when I have too much money I'll get one of those trailers that tilts.. 
- Thread starter
- #39
Ok... I have FINALLY gotten time to put the 60 on the trailer with the goal of figuring out the rigging. I think I am going to go with straight straps in the front and crossed ratchet straps in the rear.
My trailer came with D rings on the front but nothing on the rear. I think I am going to weld on some D rings and I'm looking for input on placement... I set them at the corners and part way in in the attached video - what placement is better?.
As well I'm looking to hear if what I have in general (set-up tentatively) in the attached videos is going to be ok. Note: the rear strap is just hooked to the corner... NOT a place I would ever leave it... it is just there to get an idea on angles.
I will probably add a safety chain to the center of the rear as well going up to my rear bumper - meant to be an emergency back up.... just in case.
Please let me know what you all think...
My trailer came with D rings on the front but nothing on the rear. I think I am going to weld on some D rings and I'm looking for input on placement... I set them at the corners and part way in in the attached video - what placement is better?.
As well I'm looking to hear if what I have in general (set-up tentatively) in the attached videos is going to be ok. Note: the rear strap is just hooked to the corner... NOT a place I would ever leave it... it is just there to get an idea on angles.
I will probably add a safety chain to the center of the rear as well going up to my rear bumper - meant to be an emergency back up.... just in case.
Please let me know what you all think...
http://www.pjtrailers.com/options/stake-pocket-d-rings/
a couple of these might be good...but I would rather have some hd d-rings on the rear most cross member of your trailer.
I generally like d rings welded to the trailer deck/cross-member that are in a straight line with the way in which the strap/cable/chain is pulled, without having too much of an angle between the top and bottom attachment points. Seems like you need some HD drings on your rear most cross member. Thats what my trailer has.
a couple of these might be good...but I would rather have some hd d-rings on the rear most cross member of your trailer.
I generally like d rings welded to the trailer deck/cross-member that are in a straight line with the way in which the strap/cable/chain is pulled, without having too much of an angle between the top and bottom attachment points. Seems like you need some HD drings on your rear most cross member. Thats what my trailer has.
