Toyuzu Fj60 (Rootbeer Diesel Build)

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Johnny, do you or anyone else for that matter know if the flange on an H55 is a different size bolt pattern than an H42 for the front drive shaft? For some reason, I can't get the front drive shaft to go over the mounting studs on the H55.

It's not a difference that has to do with the transmission, it's the transfer case.

It's been a few years since I sold you that, but I was running a double-cardan driveshaft on that case. The reason why the rear companion flange has holes instead of studs is because I drilled it to work with both patterns, early and late (DC and non-DC). I thought that the front flange was drilled the same way, but with studs pressed in for the pattern I was using at the time.
 
It's not a difference that has to do with the transmission, it's the transfer case.

It's been a few years since I sold you that, but I was running a double-cardan driveshaft on that case. The reason why the rear companion flange has holes instead of studs is because I drilled it to work with both patterns, early and late (DC and non-DC). I thought that the front flange was drilled the same way, but with studs pressed in for the pattern I was using at the time.

Thanks Johnny, the DS bolt holes are real close to lining up with the studs on the t-case. I think that I will drill them out just a little and try that.
 
not sure if it is off the top of my head. I'll have to look at it when I get home this afternoon. The flange on the output of the t-case has studs and the flange on the DS has the bolt holes. Gonna call your dad later on this week.

Ya I would just take a file to the holes on the DS to make it fit.

Good deal, he's exited about changing the roof on his cruiser.
 
Got my shiny ceramic coated intake manifold back today and installed. Also got the drive shaft back in
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R, That's some CLEAN WORK BROTHER.. Looks great.

J

Thanks Jason, it's getting closer. Hope to have the body back on next week. Then I can start on the bumper kit.
 
Looks good, and looking forward to seeing it on the road!
 
Looks good, and looking forward to seeing it on the road!

Thanks Doug, been going back over your thread and refreshing my build plans.
 
Cleaning the underside. Getting ready to spray it with monstaliner.
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That's my buddy Mike helping out.
 
The rotisserie is so cool!

Yes it is!

I did the same job on my body--but without a rotisserie. I made a HUGE mess. It was a pretty awful dirty job.

I really need to fab up a rotisserie next time.

Dan
 
The rotisserie is so cool!

It is pretty awesome. Comes in real handy

Yes it is!

I did the same job on my body--but without a rotisserie. I made a HUGE mess. It was a pretty awful dirty job.

I really need to fab up a rotisserie next time.

Dan

The rotisserie comes in really handy, especially when doing welding on the floor pan. Makes it 100 times easier to work on both sides really quick.
 
Okay, are these on the right way? I have a friend that keeps questioning them.
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Okay, are these on the right way? I have a friend that keeps questioning them.
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The Anti Inversion shackles? They are correct. The short section, and bolt between plates is designed to hit the frame first to prevent it from moving farther towards the fixed end of the spring. If the shackle rotates too far towards the fixed end (inverts) it is possible that when the weight comes back down on the spring that it will over center inverted, which is much too short for the spring, causing the spring to bend and fail.

Like I said: looks right to me.

Dan
 
They're correct.

The Anti Inversion shackles? They are correct. The short section, and bolt between plates is designed to hit the frame first to prevent it from moving farther towards the fixed end of the spring. If the shackle rotates too far towards the fixed end (inverts) it is possible that when the weight comes back down on the spring that it will over center inverted, which is much too short for the spring, causing the spring to bend and fail.

Like I said: looks right to me.

Dan

Thanks Johnny and Dan. I thought they were right. Just needed a second opinion.
 
Trying to remove the factory sound dampener/ insulation. Using a putty knife and a DA with 80 grit paper. Just getting started, more to come.
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Trying to remove the factory sound dampener/ insulation. Using a putty knife and a DA with 80 grit paper. Just getting started, more to come.
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I just finished that job today.

Step 1: pressure washer. It blew off 90% of the jute lining. Then let it dry.

Step 2: Wire wheel. It takes the rest off with the quickness. Wear a dust mask though, because the fibers go everywhere!

Dan
 
For sure, I thought about pressure washing. Don't want to get water all over the garage, can't roll it out on the rotisserie. There is gravel in front of the garage. If it were concrete I would for sure
 

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