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- #161
Toyota 78 pop up roof (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter renago
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- #162
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- #163
so , here is the finished product .
all cabinets are super strong , but light .
this was my first objective .
second point ,must be dust proof ,and easy care .
last but not least nice looking , good touch , and practical to use .
as you can see from the photos , there is a hot air blow point in the rear of the car , and another in front .
each one can be closed individually .
heater is a Webasto STC 2000 .
added a sink , and electric pump .
cooking place with Propane gas .
wife strongly wanted a chemical WC , what to say ....ok
tested well during last summer vacation . all works fine .
just some small adjustments ,here and there .
bye Renago
all cabinets are super strong , but light .
this was my first objective .
second point ,must be dust proof ,and easy care .
last but not least nice looking , good touch , and practical to use .
as you can see from the photos , there is a hot air blow point in the rear of the car , and another in front .
each one can be closed individually .
heater is a Webasto STC 2000 .
added a sink , and electric pump .
cooking place with Propane gas .
wife strongly wanted a chemical WC , what to say ....ok
tested well during last summer vacation . all works fine .
just some small adjustments ,here and there .
bye Renago
- Thread starter
- #164
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- #165
- Thread starter
- #166
In front of this cabinet , I have 2 more boxes , but not in place at the moment .
Was cleaning the car after the move .
it was so dirty .
will post some more Photos in the next days .
hope you enjoy the finished work .
open to critics in order to improve my overloading Troopy .
bye Renago
Was cleaning the car after the move .
it was so dirty .
will post some more Photos in the next days .
hope you enjoy the finished work .
open to critics in order to improve my overloading Troopy .
bye Renago
- Thread starter
- #167
Here under is a photo of the 2 boxes on the other side of the isle .
Missing the fridge , which is just in front of the small opening door .
Have you weighed the vehicle by chance?
- Thread starter
- #170
To be honest I never weighted it .
At full load I think I am at 3000 kg
Consider that I have
400 L Diesel fuel
70 L water
Food
Mechanical stuff
70 kg of pop up roof
And extras
At full load I think I am at 3000 kg
Consider that I have
400 L Diesel fuel
70 L water
Food
Mechanical stuff
70 kg of pop up roof
And extras
Renago, this is absolutely fantastic work!!! Bravo
Please tell me where you put 400 litres of diesel??? I'm struggling to find space for 220 litres
- Thread starter
- #172
Hi Troepadoer
if you have a 78, or a 75 , it is easy .
get rid of the stock rear tank , and make or buy a 200 L that fits in the same place .
using the same fuel tubes .
then get rid of the exhaust pipeline , and make a side exhaust , lighter , shorter , lower EGT .
with all the space that you have under the vehicle , you can store water and or fuel .
I have made a simple tank on the left side between the frame .
but if you have a good metal work shop , you can have it go over the transmission shaft , and have a nice horseshoe tank .
a bit more work , but you can easily store water and fuel up to 200 /300 L
depending how precise you want to do the motel work .
all tanks must not be lower than the car frame .
use stainless steel , NOT iron .
more expencive to make , but no issues with rust , and more forgiving with vibrations .
the handling of the car is super low gravity , and stable , in all condition and roads .
plus you have the car completely empty to use as you wish .
no more stinky handling of jerry cans ,
if you want to fill up all tanks , ok .
otherwise just leave some empty , according to your needs .
I use a normal 12 V fuel pump to send the fuel from central tank to the rear .
you can oparate it also while driving , very handy .
in the end I have 3 tanks
front stock 90 L
central 120 L
rear 200 L
with all full tanks I have made a 3100 km range .
not too bad , considering the weight of the car , and a HDT engine , with 255-85-16 tires .
these were made for trips in the Sahara desert , which is not possible any longer .
but they came useful also in other occasions .
hope my explanations are sufficiently clear .
bye Renago
if you have a 78, or a 75 , it is easy .
get rid of the stock rear tank , and make or buy a 200 L that fits in the same place .
using the same fuel tubes .
then get rid of the exhaust pipeline , and make a side exhaust , lighter , shorter , lower EGT .
with all the space that you have under the vehicle , you can store water and or fuel .
I have made a simple tank on the left side between the frame .
but if you have a good metal work shop , you can have it go over the transmission shaft , and have a nice horseshoe tank .
a bit more work , but you can easily store water and fuel up to 200 /300 L
depending how precise you want to do the motel work .
all tanks must not be lower than the car frame .
use stainless steel , NOT iron .
more expencive to make , but no issues with rust , and more forgiving with vibrations .
the handling of the car is super low gravity , and stable , in all condition and roads .
plus you have the car completely empty to use as you wish .
no more stinky handling of jerry cans ,
if you want to fill up all tanks , ok .
otherwise just leave some empty , according to your needs .
I use a normal 12 V fuel pump to send the fuel from central tank to the rear .
you can oparate it also while driving , very handy .
in the end I have 3 tanks
front stock 90 L
central 120 L
rear 200 L
with all full tanks I have made a 3100 km range .
not too bad , considering the weight of the car , and a HDT engine , with 255-85-16 tires .
these were made for trips in the Sahara desert , which is not possible any longer .
but they came useful also in other occasions .
hope my explanations are sufficiently clear .
bye Renago
- Thread starter
- #174
After a couple of months driving , yesterday I was able to refill my tanks .
Made 3076 with 384 L of diesel , not too bad .
I still had 10 L spare fuel for emergency.
That makes out 8 km/ L , which I think is not bad fuel consumption for this kind of car .
What do you guys get of of yours ?
- Thread starter
- #176
That consumption is rather a good value .
But even going fast and loaded I don't drop under 7km/L.
In modern terms it is a disastrous result .
But with a 4.2 L engine, designed ages ago , not too bad on a permanent 4x4 setting , I accept it .
But even going fast and loaded I don't drop under 7km/L.
In modern terms it is a disastrous result .
But with a 4.2 L engine, designed ages ago , not too bad on a permanent 4x4 setting , I accept it .
- Thread starter
- #177
this new add , is not strictly related to th pop up roof , but a bit to the interior confort .
the theme is HOT WATER
the theme is HOT WATER
- Thread starter
- #178
I have been mumbling about adding hot water option since some time ....years .
at last i found all pieces , and today I worked in order to get the plumbing done .
here are some photos .
I had problems in finding a good spot for placing thereat exchanger .
at last , I decided to put it near the left side, just behind the front light .
made a SS plate , with some rubber damping .
4 bolts .
and plumbing stuff .
at last i found all pieces , and today I worked in order to get the plumbing done .
here are some photos .
I had problems in finding a good spot for placing thereat exchanger .
at last , I decided to put it near the left side, just behind the front light .
made a SS plate , with some rubber damping .
4 bolts .
and plumbing stuff .
- Thread starter
- #179
then you need to connect the water tank to the heat exchanger , via electric pump .
which I already have installed since the beginning .
the pump sends 12 L/min.
after that I decided to take the source of hot water from the return of cabin heater .
this decision was made for some reasons .
A,no need to heat up the exchanger when not needed .
B,i can roughly regulate the amount of hot water that goes to the HE , or at least the flow of it .
this can help me determine the temperature of water .
C safety, if any goes wrong with the HE , I can easily convert it back to standard .
and if I have a small leak , I can still shut down the cabin heater and HE , and stop the leak .
which I already have installed since the beginning .
the pump sends 12 L/min.
after that I decided to take the source of hot water from the return of cabin heater .
this decision was made for some reasons .
A,no need to heat up the exchanger when not needed .
B,i can roughly regulate the amount of hot water that goes to the HE , or at least the flow of it .
this can help me determine the temperature of water .
C safety, if any goes wrong with the HE , I can easily convert it back to standard .
and if I have a small leak , I can still shut down the cabin heater and HE , and stop the leak .
- Thread starter
- #180
The system is not completely finished yet .
tomorrow I need to attach all wiring to the electric valve , visible in the last Photo .
this will open the flow from water tank and attivate the electric pump .
the return pipe will sprinkle the hot water in each SS tank from above .
cold water will be taken from the bottom , and sent to the HE .
stay tuned for the rest .
thanks for watching Renago
tomorrow I need to attach all wiring to the electric valve , visible in the last Photo .
this will open the flow from water tank and attivate the electric pump .
the return pipe will sprinkle the hot water in each SS tank from above .
cold water will be taken from the bottom , and sent to the HE .
stay tuned for the rest .
thanks for watching Renago
