sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
FWIW, the Aluminum non swingout design has been updated with more clearance for the pin and also the 7 pin mount.
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Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (20 Viewers)
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That looks like a beauty!FWIW, the Aluminum non swingout design has been updated with more clearance for the pin and also the 7 pin mount.
Light, no rust, retains backup sensors, improved access to hitch and wiring connector. Literally everything I would personally want in a rear bumper. If I ever swap out my stock setup, I'll be making a trip to your shop!
The only wish-list item I could add would be a pre-drilled location near the wiring connector to pass-through wiring for more trailer-related connections, such as a DC/DC charger. But I suppose with an aluminium bumper that's an easy mod to make at home.
Dunbar
SILVER Star
Great improvements! I also learned that this bumper is compatible with all LRA tank mounts. I have a 12.5 gallon which is a prefect pairing for the non swing out bumper.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
On the side opposite the 7 pin we have a similar mounting flange that DIY'er can use for air brackets / Anderson plug connectors or anything else.
Weird Question. For those with the older LXs and LCs, do you go by the actual tow rating or do you go with the newer J2807 ratings?
Like for my 2009 LX it is rated for 8500 lbs but the 2013 is 7000 lbs.
Like for my 2009 LX it is rated for 8500 lbs but the 2013 is 7000 lbs.
- Thread starter
- #1,687
I use the F150 ratings because if a Ford can tow 10k pounds then my LC should have no trouble.
Seriously though you should use the newer ratings as the max, and even then it’s wise to run lower because your limit will often be tongue weight once your vehicle is loaded with people, not GVWR.
I won't tell you what to do with your rig.
For me, she'll tow every bit that she's rated for ('09 rating) and then some. All my mods should have made for a worse towing vehicle and she still does better than great. I have a family friend that was so impressed, he went and bought an identical '09 LX. And Airstream 27FB.
That said, all ratings and guidelines include some margin. For safety and perhaps non-ideal parameters. Towing has many variables to balance. Get them all on the favorable side, and it can tow with great success. Get even one too wrong, and it'll cause the same trailer on an F350 to sway and tow like crap.
Go by what you're comfortable with and what your vehicle's manual states. The latter gives you a legal defence/safety in any accident/claim, or even roadside inspection from an overly enthusiastic LEO.
TheGrrrrr
GOLD Star
Anyone have opinions on air bag options? Seems like firestone is the most popular. My buddy is putting a Scout Camper in his Tundra and asked me if there is a consensus about airbag brands and specifically analog vs. digital adjustment/controls. I don't have any experience so I suggested I could ask here since this is among the greatest threads on this site. Sorry for the adjacency of the question.
What year is the Tundra? 2nd Gen or 3rd? I ask because leaf springs vs coil springs will change the air bag design.
I ran Airlift Ridecontrols on my F150 for almost 9 years and they worked great.
The digital setup is cool and fancy but seems unnecessary to me unless you are changing the load extremely frequently. Airing up my ridecontrols took like 7-8 pumps from a regular bike pump to get to 20 psi. Their volume is not that large so the pressure climbs pretty quickly.
If he does have a 2G tundra then I would tell him to avoid the 5000 lb air bag systems. They are WAY overkill for a half ton truck and tend to make the ride worse when unloaded even when deflated. My Ride Controls were rated for 2000 lbs and were not noticeable at all.
TheGrrrrr
GOLD Star
Thats helpful thanks. Its a 2nd Gen 2011 Double Cab with the long bed. Again sorry for the threadjack, I just wanted to get my answers from this specific group of people.
So I hate to say it but I think he will be limited to a 5000 lb setup from either air lift or firestone.
He should also be careful offroad because the bags usually dont stretch as far as the suspension will. So if he gets into situations where the suspension is really articulated the bags could essentially become limiting straps. I know my RideControls did this, and while I never had an issue, it did put a lot of stress on the bags.
I had the Firestones in my LC and they were great. I noticed absolutely no change when down to the minimum of 5 lbs-ish and they kept the truck level when towing my jet boat, 18' single axle camping trailer or my 25' travel trailer. Simple valves under back bumper and tire pump, 12v electric or gas station air. I guessed at the 5 lbs. The ride all the way to the Arctic Circle with the big trailer was excellent.
- Thread starter
- #1,695
Firestone 4164 for the stock LC, 4129 if you’ve lifted as they’re 1” longer. Or buy the 4164 kit and cut off one less bump stop
I had Firestone ride rites with daystar cradles on my Tundra. They helped when loaded down, but they were bouncy feeling unloaded, no matter the PSI. Maybe the cradles contributed to that, but I removed them and got HD Roadmaster Active Suspension. Highly recommended. Adjustable, supports a lot of weight without sagging, acts like a rear sway bar, and still allows articulation off road.
I’ve had Firestone airbag products on three different vehicles since 2001. Always analog, and always very satisfied with their adjustability, function and durability. For periodic load hauling / towing its a great option. I’m not a rock crawler - more like offroad adventure touring, towing and the like.
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
We have Firestone 4164 airbags which we've run at the 5-8 psi recommended for everyday use. We've run like this for about a year.
My understanding is that you inflate them to the higher towing pressure prior to adding a weight distributing hitch.
For those of you towing with a weight distributing hitch, how do you go about selecting a pressure prior to its attachment?
My understanding is that you inflate them to the higher towing pressure prior to adding a weight distributing hitch.
For those of you towing with a weight distributing hitch, how do you go about selecting a pressure prior to its attachment?
- Thread starter
- #1,699
I used to run mine at max pressure when towing. Officially you'd want to do it by getting on a scale and measuring the axle weight with the trailer attached and then check the front and rear vehicle height. Practically if you're putting a heavy trailer on the tongue you'll probably find that even at full pressure you'll only add maybe an inch or so of rear height.
When not towing I used to run 5psi. If I was going to wheel I would deflate to like 1-2psi... (would've gone to zero but it takes too long). I never had an issue with the bags getting "pinched", which is why Firestone says you should run 5psi min. YMMV of course and the bags do stretch a bit once they've been inflated for a while.
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
Thank you!
We're soon to take delivery of our trailer in the coming days and I have no idea how to proceed with regard to airbags. We never had them in the past.
The approx. 5-8 psi. I'm running now has raised the rear up about an inch which is fine day-to-day and settles to flat when we're hauling a bunch of stuff. So the bags have worked out well for us so far.
I told the dealer we have airbags and they gave no feedback one way or another. The dealer intends to set up with a WD hitch but I want to have some outside guidance.
Do air bags play with a WD hitch? I.e. how should I start pressure-wise with a WD hitch?
