Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (3 Viewers)

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I considered them but had read that it doesn't work as well for transferring large amounts of tongue weight. I helped a guy who had the Andersen one once and it was a PITA to transfer over to my truck so I just pulled his trailer w/o WD.

I had a ProSeries before my BlueOx. Old style WD bars/chains and a friction anti-sway you cranked down. The BlueOx is night and day. Equalizer or another solid bar option probably works similarly well. My Blueox is quiet as long as I occasionally grease the two pivot point zerks.
 
I considered them but had read that it doesn't work as well for transferring large amounts of tongue weight. I helped a guy who had the Andersen one once and it was a PITA to transfer over to my truck so I just pulled his trailer w/o WD.

I had a ProSeries before my BlueOx. Old style WD bars/chains and a friction anti-sway you cranked down. The BlueOx is night and day. Equalizer or another solid bar option probably works similarly well. My Blueox is quiet as long as I occasionally grease the two pivot point zerks.
Many thanks. Spent all day today at Overland East. One thing trailer vendors don't seem to talk about is WD hitches. I know this from previous experience. I'd guess they have little to no experience with the unique issues of a LC. But, it sounds like you've got something that works. And that's huge!
 
I use the Andersen WDH for its excellent sway control, relatively light weight, silent operation, and ease of use. Not so much for weight distribution since the heaviest trailer I tow is only 4k lbs with a 500 lb hitch weight. I can back up, maneuver tightly at campsites, and often just leave the whole assembly together overnight with no worries.
 

I've used previously with a 23' 5k lb Airstream and LX470. Great WD hitch. Works well, clean, noise free, light, easily adjustable WD (it's adjusted as part of hitching up) and perfect for something of that weight class or lower. It doesn't have the geometry to transfer weight for beyond that application. I wouldn't hesitate to use it again for lighter trailers.

I use an Equalizer currently with my 28' 8k lb trailer. Super easy set and forget tool free hitching. The standard most widely used and supported on the market. Some noise but can be mostly abated with plastic pads the sell and lube maintenance.
 
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Using an Andersen here. Nothing but praise for it. Our family moved last year from Oregon to Arizona and I pulled a 24 foot car hauler trailer down there twice(1300 miles one way, 5200 miles total).

First time, with my '90 300zx TT tucked inside with a bunch of other household items. I estimated the load to be around 8k. 2nd time was all the rest of our house stuff and definitely much heavier. Estimated around 10k. I had no sway issues passing semis or in windy zones. AHC did its job and kept us level. Fresh brakes on the LX helped us stop easily. I was 2 finger driving most of the time to be honest. I highly recommend an Andersen.

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Using an Andersen here. Nothing but praise for it. Our family moved last year from Oregon to Arizona and I pulled a 24 foot car hauler trailer down there twice(1300 miles one way, 5200 miles total).

First time, with my '90 300zx TT tucked inside with a bunch of other household items. I estimated the load to be around 8k. 2nd time was all the rest of our house stuff and definitely much heavier. Estimated around 10k. I had no sway issues passing semis or in windy zones. AHC did its job and kept us level. Fresh brakes on the LX helped us stop easily. I was 2 finger driving most of the time to be honest. I highly recommend an Andersen.

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WOW! Looks like what we need to take on camping trips.:rofl:
I watched the Anderson video and they made it look like their hitch was easier to deal with getting on and off at campsites.
I'm sure their video is slightly biased toward their product but have you found that to be the case?
 
@FrazzledHunter

That part is a bit different with the Andersen. It's best to detach and attach at the same angle if possible. It's not super horrible if you don't. With the AHC, pop it into high mode and jack up the back even more until there is enough slack in the chains to get them connected. That's the only thing different about Andersen verse the other WDH setups.
 
@FrazzledHunter

That part is a bit different with the Andersen. It's best to detach and attach at the same angle if possible. It's not super horrible if you don't. With the AHC, pop it into high mode and jack up the back even more until there is enough slack in the chains to get them connected. That's the only thing different about Andersen verse the other WDH setups.
I do the same with my Blueox - jack the trailer up to essentially create negative weight distribution, then the bars come off easily. Jack it down, unlock the coupler, then jack it back up so that the trailer pops off. I think that's pretty typical and recommended for most WD setups. One advantage of the Andersen is that if you can't do that method you can just loosen the nuts evenly until it unloads and then you can disconnect, whereas on a normal WD setup if you don't jack it up then there's a LOT of stress on the WD bars and removing them can snap them with some serious force.
 
The type of hitch I'm familiar with is the tension bar type.
Seen all kinds in campgrounds though.

Interestingly, the Kimberly folks told us (at Overland East) that a WD/anti-sway hitch wasn't necessary on a 200 series LC at least on their E and S class "Caravan" models. They use a McHitch. I'm not sure if you even CAN put a WD/anti-sway on that type of hitch.

Not sure we can afford a Kimberly but that's another issue.
 
The type of hitch I'm familiar with is the tension bar type.
Seen all kinds in campgrounds though.

Interestingly, the Kimberly folks told us (at Overland East) that a WD/anti-sway hitch wasn't necessary on a 200 series LC at least on their E and S class "Caravan" models. They use a McHitch. I'm not sure if you even CAN put a WD/anti-sway on that type of hitch.

Not sure we can afford a Kimberly but that's another issue.
@Romer can chime in but I believe that the Kimberly may not take one because WD hitches won't articulate well offroad.
 
@Romer can chime in but I believe that the Kimberly may not take one because WD hitches won't articulate well offroad.
Well they didn't say WHY they don't take one. But it makes sense from that standpoint. I should have known. DUH moment here! :)
 
Well they didn't say WHY they don't take one. But it makes sense from that standpoint. I should have known. DUH moment here! :)

That's only part of the equation.

I also heard numerous times that their Kruisers do not accept a WD hitch. WD hitches expect/require the tongue to be designed a certain way - I believe the A-frame needs to be at around 30 degrees, which may or may not be the case for Kimberley. Then there is the question of having physical room to attach it. Then the question of whether the frame is strong enough for the forces that will be exerted in that (attachment) spot. For example, some aluminum-framed trailers, like those from InTech, are showing up on classifieds with plates welded-on right where the WD hitch would connect; clearly a reinforcement (one that wasn't present in the original design a few years ago)... I wonder why.

Lastly there is the question of actual use. In the US you've got some highways with 80mph limits, and people towing at those speeds, passing (or being passed by) semis, etc. How common is that speed/environment in Australia? Perhaps the Australian market simply doesn't "need" WD hitches as much as the US market, so the trailers weren't designed for them.

On the same note, the European trailers are very different from what we get here, too. Look at the axle placement relative to whole trailer, look at the resulting differences in tongue weight, trailer stability (or lack there of) at speed, etc.

Different trailer markets pose different challenges and have their own, unique details. Worth thinking about in depth before simply importing a trailer from across the world.
 
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The type of hitch I'm familiar with is the tension bar type.
Seen all kinds in campgrounds though.

Interestingly, the Kimberly folks told us (at Overland East) that a WD/anti-sway hitch wasn't necessary on a 200 series LC at least on their E and S class "Caravan" models. They use a McHitch. I'm not sure if you even CAN put a WD/anti-sway on that type of hitch.

Not sure we can afford a Kimberly but that's another issue.
@Romer can chime in but I believe that the Kimberly may not take one because WD hitches won't articulate well offroad.
I don't use a WD anti sway device and don't see the need for one. I cruise 75 with no issues. Sometimes bumpy highways do create some sway on my Karavan, but that tapers out. The Australians suggested firmer shocks for highway sway. I just bought some Bilsteins to replace the Fox shocks, but haven't installed them yet

I did order the optional sway bar on my Karavan

I don't care for the MicHitch, just personal preference. I ordered a Hitch-Ezy from an Australian manufacturer

https://www.hitch-ezy.com.au/

it was a direct bolt on to replace the Tregg mine came with

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That's only part of the equation.

I also heard numerous times that their Kruisers do not accept a WD hitch. WD hitches expect/require the tongue to be designed a certain way - I believe the A-frame needs to be at around 30 degrees, which may or may not be the case for Kimberley. Then there is the question of having physical room to attach it. Then the question of whether the frame is strong enough for the forces that will be exerted in that (attachment) spot. For example, some aluminum-framed trailers, like those from InTech, are showing up on classifieds with plates welded-on right where the WD hitch would connect; clearly a reinforcement (one that wasn't present in the original design a few years ago)... I wonder why.

Lastly there is the question of actual use. In the US you've got some highways with 80mph limits, and people towing at those speeds, passing (or being passed by) semis, etc. How common is that speed/environment in Australia? Perhaps the Australian market simply doesn't "need" WD hitches as much as the US market, so the trailers weren't designed for them.

On the same note, the European trailers are very different from what we get here, too. Look at the axle placement relative to whole trailer, look at the resulting differences in tongue weight, trailer stability (or lack there of) at speed, etc.

Different trailer markets pose different challenges and have their own, unique details. Worth thinking about in depth before simply importing a trailer from across the world.
Thanks for this info. Interesting you should mention the inTech. We took a hard look at the inTech OVR. Their frame/tongue is all aluminum and they make a big deal out of it. I was poking around looking at where they routed their wires for the 7 pin and say that they sent it through the frame. The aluminum didn't look all that thick to me and I think that hole in the frame is a great place to gather grime and water.
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I don't use a WD anti sway device and don't see the need for one. I cruise 75 with no issues. Sometimes bumpy highways do create some sway on my Karavan, but that tapers out. The Australians suggested firmer shocks for highway sway. I just bought some Bilsteins to replace the Fox shocks, but haven't installed them yet

I did order the optional sway bar on my Karavan

I don't care for the MicHitch, just personal preference. I ordered a Hitch-Ezy from an Australian manufacturer

https://www.hitch-ezy.com.au/

it was a direct bolt on to replace the Tregg mine came with

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Thanks for the post. I have stock shocks and Firestone airbags. Could easily change that though.
I'd just as soon not have a WD/anti-sway hitch if I don't need one.
Careful test driving can determine that I suppose.
But I guess the time to figure out you DO need one is NOT when you're careening down a 300 foot cliff. :oops:
 
Thanks for this info. Interesting you should mention the inTech. We took a hard look at the inTech OVR. Their frame/tongue is all aluminum and they make a big deal out of it. I was poking around looking at where they routed their wires for the 7 pin and say that they sent it through the frame. The aluminum didn't look all that thick to me and I think that hole in the frame is a great place to gather grime and water.
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Look at their trailers close enough and you'll find plenty of problems.

They do have some nice designs, interior materials, and layouts, though. Props for that.
 
Look at their trailers close enough and you'll find plenty of problems.

They do have some nice designs, interior materials, and layouts, though. Props for that.
I have a thread that shows my utter dismay for what is exposed underneath in what is supposedly an overland-capable trailer.
I simply couldn't believe what I saw and reached out to this forum for opinions.

InTech O-V-R Trailer opinion - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/intech-o-v-r-trailer-opinion.1316424/#post-15052815
 
I have a thread that shows my utter dismay for what is exposed underneath in what is supposedly an overland-capable trailer.
I simply couldn't believe what I saw and reached out to this forum for opinions.

InTech O-V-R Trailer opinion - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/intech-o-v-r-trailer-opinion.1316424/#post-15052815
Ah yes, I saw that thread earlier.

They need to slap a few "tactical" decals on the trailer to complete the package. That'll seal the deal for their target buyers.
 
Tows my old ugly dump trailer just fine! I recently installed air bags and it’s good to have that option if the tongue weight gets a bit heavy. Didn’t need to air up for this load.

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