Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (2 Viewers)

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Great info, thank you. I would lift whatever trailer I got, regardless of factory options. They're all relatively easy to lift. Here's how my older Hymer was lifted by a local shop. I would want clearance not so much for proper obstacles (that would then require/suggest a need for the proper off-road trailers, as you suggest) but rather getting over the occasional cross ditch, approach/departure angle, etc. Basically "light" obstacles that might be enough to catch on a normal-height trailer. Extending stabilizers, jacks, stairs, etc., is all trivial - not worried about that.

For your issue of cabinet doors opening up in transit, you may want to pick up a simple, magnetic catch. They're easy to install on just about any cabinet and should be a big help. If that and the slide hardware is the biggest issues I'd have on a Lance, I would consider that a huge win.
They're not all liftable in the same manner. Most are, but I know from experience the 2012-2015 Lance models have the Torsion axle in a cutout section of the frame. It's weird. The lift for it was an afterthought and it basically ends up replacing a section of the frame to raise the axle up... hence why it's a 6" lift.

Leaf sprung axles are easier, and even the newer Lance trailers with the Dexter axles I think are set up differently.

FWIW I've only dragged my rear trailer bumper twice on a very steep entry onto a main road. Offroad I'm sure it would drag, but on normal roads (including gravel fire roads) it's fine. The pro of a trailer which is set lower to the ground is better stability, particularly on a 10' tall box.

I solved the cabinet door problem by using a bungee on the door most likely to open. The others have struts which hold them open, and which generally hold them closed fine. The cabinet door next to the TV doesn't have one. It's also where canned goods and heavier items typically end up in our trip, so if they're not packed in tight they can bounce around and knock the cabinet open.

Really I've been very happy with the Lance. I had a Forest River before this and it had a lot more small issues, to the point where every trip I was dealing with 2 or 3 "minor" things for a couple hours, rather than enjoying the trip. Most of my Lance issues are really 3rd party issues - the hinge on the Norcold fridge broke (that sucked), the faucet handle on my kitchen sink just stopped working, I've replaced the Shurflo water pump, the CO/propane detector started going off randomly and had to be replaced, etc. The problem is that you're really limited on the 3rd party parts in the travel trailer market pretty much every manufacturer uses the same few companies for all the appliances... you're not going to find a Bosch RV fridge, for instance.

If you're not sure I suggest going to Camping World and walking through a bunch of models. I did that at a winter RV show in ~2018 and at the time there was nothing I found in the same ballpark price as Lance. My wife noticed the same thing - everything else felt cheaper, thinner, etc. That said Lance was bought by another company maybe two years ago, and so I have no idea if they're maintaining the same quality they had for the first 50 years building truck bed campers.
 
They're not all liftable in the same manner. Most are, but I know from experience the 2012-2015 Lance models have the Torsion axle in a cutout section of the frame. It's weird. The lift for it was an afterthought and it basically ends up replacing a section of the frame to raise the axle up... hence why it's a 6" lift.
Sounds exactly like the Hymer I had. Solvable!
 
Another +1 for the Lance 2185. Like @linuxgod I have three kids that sleep in it. And I've been remodeling a house, so we've been living in it since April. I can't say we still get along but with 5 people sleeping and showering in about 200sf, it's held up pretty well.

And I agree with the off-road/forest roads comments above.

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Another +1 for the Lance 2185. Like @linuxgod I have three kids that sleep in it. And I've been remodeling a house, so we've been living in it since April. I can't say we still get along but with 5 people sleeping and showering in about 200sf, it's held up pretty well.

And I agree with the off-road/forest roads comments above.

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We've done a few easy mods which have made sleeping in it better for the kids and our sanity. PM me if you'd like details.
 
Maybe check out Black Series and Outdoors RV for more off-road back-country style trailers. (Black Series being the more off-road worthy)
Not a fan of Black Series, especially given all their shoddy electrical work. I've seen ORV mentioned a few times on these forums (always in good light), so I'll have another look at them, thank you!
 
I searched and did not find any responses other than people had looked at a Bigfoot Rv. We have a 2021 Bigfoot 25b25rt that I pull with a 2016 crew max Tundra and it does a fine job. I would like to upgrade to 200 series, has any pulled this camper with a LC or LX?

Thnaks
Shawn
 
I searched and did not find any responses other than people had looked at a Bigfoot Rv. We have a 2021 Bigfoot 25b25rt that I pull with a 2016 crew max Tundra and it does a fine job. I would like to upgrade to 200 series, has any pulled this camper with a LC or LX?

Thnaks
Shawn
That's the trailer I'm currently dreaming of having behind my LX! Put up some photos!

I don't think I've seen any photos of BigFoot owners here, but lots of folks tow larger and/or heavier trailers.

The LX is the better tow rig of the 200 family, but both the LX and the LC will manage. The shorter wheelbase will be downgrade (vs your Tundra), but the heavier tow vehicle weight and AHC suspension (of the LX) will more than make up for it.
 
Here you go! This is our third molded fiberglass Rv, we started with a Casita, moved to an Escape, and found the sweet spot with the Bigfoot.

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Looks great!

I've got both BigFoot and Escape factories within driving distance (BigFoot is 30 mins away), and am finding some sweet deals on Escapes right now (not that I can afford one at this point - 5 months without work), but am fearful that getting an Escape will only temporarily fix my itch, and that I'll upgrade to a BigFoot sooner or later, so might as well get one from the get-go.

Tell me about the front storage box: do you think it's a must have? Any regrets getting it? It adds two feet to the whole trailer length, which is something I'm not crazy about. Then again, the same length results in better weight distribution, improving stability. Plus it's a large volume for all kinds of camping stuff...
 
You live in some beautiful country! I travelled to BC to pick-up our Escape back in 2019, when it came time for the Bigfoot I found this one much closer down in Georgia. Getting the storage box was never a question for me, must have! I keep the weight down by only loading large bulky items such as chairs, and outdoor rug. The length hasn't been a problem so far, we have stayed in many NP campgrounds on 25 foot sites. What I do notice from the Escape is the width! On skinny roads its a handful, however the inside is perfect for two people even in poor weather. With your proximity to either manufacture, the availability of either a Bigfoot or an Escape should be much better than here in Kentucky. I would buy the one that has been treated well and works for your life, they each have plus and minuses.
 
It's almost time for new tires for my LX and I was curious to hear from folks in this thread (presumably running load range E tires) what everyone is running with towing in mind. I have been fairly unimpressed with the duratracs (load range e) that I picked up shortly after buying my camper. I feel like I did not get as much life out of them as I should have and they are border line scary in snow now that they are a bit worn. Not sure if that is due to the harder compound being a load range E tire, the lack of tread due to wear, or a combination of the two.
 
It's almost time for new tires for my LX and I was curious to hear from folks in this thread (presumably running load range E tires) what everyone is running with towing in mind. I have been fairly unimpressed with the duratracs (load range e) that I picked up shortly after buying my camper. I feel like I did not get as much life out of them as I should have and they are border line scary in snow now that they are a bit worn. Not sure if that is due to the harder compound being a load range E tire, the lack of tread due to wear, or a combination of the two.
Do you need an LT-E tire for off road durability? If not, you certainly don’t need LT tires for towing. I tow with P rated 275/65r18 Michelin Defender LTX M/S…they will support the full weight rating of the vehicle. Better ride, braking and MPG versus LT-E rated tires.
 
Looks like I'm due for a bit more research. After some quick tire searches the load range E may have been driven more by the availability in my desired tire size (275/70/18), not necessarily the load capacity.
 
Looks like I'm due for a bit more research. After some quick tire searches the load range E may have been driven more by the availability in my desired tire size (275/70/18), not necessarily the load capacity.
Most 275/70r18 tires are LT-E rated. The only P rated tire in that size that I’m aware of is the General Grabber APT, which is OEM on some Nissan pickups.

There is a recent thread on Michelin Defender LTX M/S, they are great tires and will tow better than A/T’s. But in that size they will be LT-E.

 
It's almost time for new tires for my LX and I was curious to hear from folks in this thread (presumably running load range E tires) what everyone is running with towing in mind. I have been fairly unimpressed with the duratracs (load range e) that I picked up shortly after buying my camper. I feel like I did not get as much life out of them as I should have and they are border line scary in snow now that they are a bit worn. Not sure if that is due to the harder compound being a load range E tire, the lack of tread due to wear, or a combination of the two.
I had duratracs on my GX and I was also unimpressed with the treadlife and scared by their performance in snow. Though I didn't need the higher load capacity of a 10-ply for towing, I did appreciate a stiffer tire when towing compared to 4 and 6-ply tires.
 
Here you go! This is our third molded fiberglass Rv, we started with a Casita, moved to an Escape, and found the sweet spot with the Bigfoot.

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Nice pair you have there! We just picked up a 23’ Oliver this March and absolutely love it. It is our first trailer other than our Hiker 5x8 squaredrop. Quite a step up. We’re using an Andersen weight distribution hitch, and so far it tows great.
 
Nice pair you have there! We just picked up a 23’ Oliver this March and absolutely love it. It is our first trailer other than our Hiker 5x8 squaredrop. Quite a step up. We’re using an Andersen weight distribution hitch, and so far it tows great.
Nice trailer!!! Envious!
I have a couple of operational questions, not a towing question per se.
Are you able to run your fridge/freezer on 12V while towing?*
Can you charge your trailer's battery(ies) via the tow vehicle when towing?
Our approach to camping makes us want to arrive at camp fully charged up.

*Our previous trailer's fridge/freezer was a 120V/propane unit and we couldn't run the fridge under tow.
 
Nice trailer!!! Envious!
I have a couple of operational questions, not a towing question per se.
Are you able to run your fridge/freezer on 12V while towing?*
Can you charge your trailer's battery(ies) via the tow vehicle when towing?
Our approach to camping makes us want to arrive at camp fully charged up.

*Our previous trailer's fridge/freezer was a 120V/propane unit and we couldn't run the fridge under tow.
I run my fridge on 12V + propane when driving. Works fine. You have to have a fridge that supports it. Can’t say for your specific trailer but the fridges all nowadays seem to.

My trailer will charge off the 7 pin, but it’s very low as the wire is thin and quite long. Really more of a trickle charge and just enough to operate the power jack if the battery was dead

Fwiw I recommend a couple solar panels mounted on the roof and a charge controller. With that you’ll likely never need to recharge the batteries any other way
 

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