Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (5 Viewers)

[Artie]

So dumb question, but what’s everyone running for just a simple setup. I’m going to build out a small trailer. Won’t be running anything of 3k lbs. just going to build out a little utility 5x8 trailer that’ll have a rooftop tent, some drawer slides and battery build.

I tend to over do anything I do so would prefer not to go with just a cheap hitch.

If you wanna take it off road go with something that articulates. I’m in the process of ditching my MaxCoupler and installing a HitchEzy. The Cruisemaster DO35 is also a good option.

Availability of some of these is hit or miss right now. If you’re on a budget and not in a massive hurry I’ll have my maxcoupler stuff for sale soon, I have a backup that’s unused.

 

[Tex68w]

If you wanna take it off road go with something that articulates. I’m in the process of ditching my MaxCoupler and installing a HitchEzy. The Cruisemaster DO35 is also a good option.

Availability of some of these is hit or miss right now. If you’re on a budget and not in a massive hurry I’ll have my maxcoupler stuff for sale soon, I have a backup that’s unused.

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I've never heard of the Hitch-Eezy, I'll hav to look into this option as well. The Max Coupler is the OG in this arena these days, it and the Lock-N-Roll were the first big names on the scene but I feel the Cruisemaster and this Hitch-Eezy are the future.

 

[poppe]

If you plan to tow off-road I'd look into one of the many articulating hitches. I've been using the pintle-lunette on the M1101 but this year I plan to add the Cruisemaster DO35 articulating hitch on a custom neck.

Sweet, I’ll check it out.

If you wanna take it off road go with something that articulates. I’m in the process of ditching my MaxCoupler and installing a HitchEzy. The Cruisemaster DO35 is also a good option.

Availability of some of these is hit or miss right now. If you’re on a budget and not in a massive hurry I’ll have my maxcoupler stuff for sale soon, I have a backup that’s unused.

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can these still do a ball? My starter trailer is going to be a long drawn out build so right now it’s a standard trailer you’d roll a lawn mower on with a ball housing.

 

[Artie]

Sweet, I’ll check it out.

can these still do a ball? My starter trailer is going to be a long drawn out build so right now it’s a standard trailer you’d roll a lawn mower on with a ball housing.

No. if you choose an articulating hitch for the trailer it will use its own connection point on your vehicles ball mount. You can start with a ball and always upgrade later if need be. Just keep in mind that the articulating options usually bolt on the trailer tongue while a ball is incorporated into the trailer tongue. The MaxCoupler has a few mounting options and isn’t as much as the DO35 and my HitchEZY. If your tongue weight isn’t a lot the MaxCoupler may be an option. I’m ditching mine because my tongue weight is a little much for it.

 

[Tex68w]

No. if you choose an articulating hitch for the trailer it will use its own connection point on your vehicles ball mount. You can start with a ball and always upgrade later if need be. Just keep in mind that the articulating options usually bolt on the trailer tongue while a ball is incorporated into the trailer tongue. The MaxCoupler has a few mounting options and isn’t as much as the DO35 and my HitchEZY. If your tongue weight isn’t a lot the MaxCoupler may be an option. I’m ditching mine because my tongue weight is a little much for it.

Which trailer were you using it on and what was your tongue weight?

 

[Artie]

Which trailer were you using it on and what was your tongue weight?

I tow a SA built Conqueror UEV490 that tows at 4500lbs with a tongue weight that is 350-400 lbs. For me, regular road diving is fine on the MaxCoupler but getting into technical off road stuff it falls short for my needs. Hence the switch to a Aussie built coupler.

 

[Tex68w]

I tow a SA built Conqueror UEV490 that tows at 4500lbs with a tongue weight that is 350-400 lbs. For me, regular road diving is fine on the MaxCoupler but getting into technical off road stuff it falls short for my needs. Hence the switch to a Aussie built coupler.

Makes sense, the M1101 fully loaded is 2,000lbs max, big difference.

 

[Artie]

Makes sense, the M1101 fully loaded is 2,000lbs max, big difference.

The nice thing about a articulated hitch vs the pintle that’s likely on your M1101 is the pintle will rattle like crazy once it’s off a paved road, it will only rattle a lot on pavement.

 

[Tex68w]

The nice thing about a articulated hitch vs the pintle that’s likely on your M1101 is the pintle will rattle like crazy once it’s off a paved road, it will only rattle a lot on pavement.

It is quite literally the only reason I am going the trouble an expense to change it out. I had time with the Max Coupler on a previous trailer, other than needing to be damn near perfectly aligned to lock it in, it was a good experience.

 

[saricbell]

Hi all - for those towing with their 200, how do you cope with the tiny payload capacity these things have? Our 09 has just over 1,200 lbs. payload and recently bought a 2016 that has 1,300. We are a family of 5 which realistically is close to half the payload just in our combined weight... and the kids are still growing. We are looking at travel trailers and have owned both an Airstream and an Outdoors RV previously (towed with trucks), which I've seen that people have towed both with their 200. I can't imagine I'm the only one with a family? For instance, we've kicked around another Airstream like the Flying Cloud 23 which has a loaded max weight of 6,000 but a real world tongue weight of ~900 lbs. We'd be 200+ lbs over payload with just the trailer and occupants. I'm not sure what I'm hoping for. Perhaps someone to say "these things are much beefier than competitors so feel free to disregard the lame payload capacity". I say that in jest, but I'd really hate to get rid of one of the Cruisers to buy a "proper" tow vehicle. And I'm sick of reading every travel trailer forum that says you need a HD truck to tow a pop-up. Thanks for any wisdom or words of encouragement!

 

[Artie]

Hi all - for those towing with their 200, how do you cope with the tiny payload capacity these things have? Our 09 has just over 1,200 lbs. payload and recently bought a 2016 that has 1,300. We are a family of 5 which realistically is close to half the payload just in our combined weight... and the kids are still growing. We are looking at travel trailers and have owned both an Airstream and an Outdoors RV previously (towed with trucks), which I've seen that people have towed both with their 200. I can't imagine I'm the only one with a family? For instance, we've kicked around another Airstream like the Flying Cloud 23 which has a loaded max weight of 6,000 but a real world tongue weight of ~900 lbs. We'd be 200+ lbs over payload with just the trailer and occupants. I'm not sure what I'm hoping for. Perhaps someone to say "these things are much beefier than competitors so feel free to disregard the lame payload capacity". I say that in jest, but I'd really hate to get rid of one of the Cruisers to buy a "proper" tow vehicle. And I'm sick of reading every travel trailer forum that says you need a HD truck to tow a pop-up. Thanks for any wisdom or words of encouragement!

Only 200+ over?!?

All kidding aside, this is a delicate balancing act and packing appropriately will be your biggest advantage with this issue. In other words, put what you can in the camper. That’s a much heavier camper and tongue weight than I pull so I can’t comment on what towing it will be like on a stock cruiser.

Cruiser obesity is rampant on here.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Hi all - for those towing with their 200, how do you cope with the tiny payload capacity these things have? Our 09 has just over 1,200 lbs. payload and recently bought a 2016 that has 1,300. We are a family of 5 which realistically is close to half the payload just in our combined weight... and the kids are still growing. We are looking at travel trailers and have owned both an Airstream and an Outdoors RV previously (towed with trucks), which I've seen that people have towed both with their 200. I can't imagine I'm the only one with a family? For instance, we've kicked around another Airstream like the Flying Cloud 23 which has a loaded max weight of 6,000 but a real world tongue weight of ~900 lbs. We'd be 200+ lbs over payload with just the trailer and occupants. I'm not sure what I'm hoping for. Perhaps someone to say "these things are much beefier than competitors so feel free to disregard the lame payload capacity". I say that in jest, but I'd really hate to get rid of one of the Cruisers to buy a "proper" tow vehicle. And I'm sick of reading every travel trailer forum that says you need a HD truck to tow a pop-up. Thanks for any wisdom or words of encouragement!

Airbags will help the rear end support your desired tongue weight.

LX's AHC has an easier time with that, but can also be supplemented.

 

[Nothinghead]

Hi all - for those towing with their 200, how do you cope with the tiny payload capacity these things have? Our 09 has just over 1,200 lbs. payload and recently bought a 2016 that has 1,300. We are a family of 5 which realistically is close to half the payload just in our combined weight... and the kids are still growing. We are looking at travel trailers and have owned both an Airstream and an Outdoors RV previously (towed with trucks), which I've seen that people have towed both with their 200. I can't imagine I'm the only one with a family? For instance, we've kicked around another Airstream like the Flying Cloud 23 which has a loaded max weight of 6,000 but a real world tongue weight of ~900 lbs. We'd be 200+ lbs over payload with just the trailer and occupants. I'm not sure what I'm hoping for. Perhaps someone to say "these things are much beefier than competitors so feel free to disregard the lame payload capacity". I say that in jest, but I'd really hate to get rid of one of the Cruisers to buy a "proper" tow vehicle. And I'm sick of reading every travel trailer forum that says you need a HD truck to tow a pop-up. Thanks for any wisdom or words of encouragement!

A lot of the trailer forums will have you believe that if you use anything other than a 1-ton your trailer will spontaneously explode next to the first nursery school you drive past.

We tow an airstream 23d and just moved up to LX from a GX470. Payload capacities are about the same but we just needed more physical space. Proper weight distribution is key (and brake tuning). Aside from snacks, the only things that go in the car are things with a pulse (and bikes on the roof if needed). We load up the trailer as carefully as we can to center the cargo near or over the axles since that particular model of airstream is excessively tongue heavy. I also ditched the lead batteries for a lithium that lives inside, just in front of the front axle and far from the tongue. There are other airstream layouts that have lower tongue weights that may provide you with more peace of mind.

For kicks, I took my FILs duramax on a trip and, while it didn’t struggled to accelerate or climb like the 4.7 did, it returned 2 mpg better and was very uncomfortable to ride in.

For bigger loads, sure, an HD pickup would be great but fir a smaller/medium TT, body on frame SUV and v8 is fine. You just have to leave the extra crap out of your car while towing (it makes for a quieter ride without gear rattling around too).

 

[LX Cruiser]

@saricbell, these vehicles are towing beasts. I think for a midsize trailer, a case can be made that a 200 series is a better tow vehicle than a half ton truck. At least in some ways. For example, here is a table showing some key specs of my two 3UR-FE vehicles:

Vehicle	GVWR	Payload on the door jamb	Curb weight (according to door jamb)	Front Axle	Rear Axle	Axle payload*	Suspension	Seating	4wd system
2009 LX570	7275	1230	6045	3595	4300	1850	AHC	8 in 3 rows	Fulltime w/ unlocked 4Lo
2021 Tundra	7200	1270	5930	4000	4150	2220	Traditional, w/ rear leafs	5 in 2 rows	Part time, center always locked

* I made this term up. If weight can be perfectly distributed, it is the payload the vehicle can carry without overloading either axle.

• The LX has a 3rd row, which means I can spread my 3 kids out so they aren’t sitting elbow-to-elbow the whole trip.
• The LX has a higher GVWR and a higher rated rear axle than the Tundra. Front axle is substantially lower, though.
• The LX has AHC, a game changer for towing without squat.
• The LX is more capable on trails than the Tundra.
• The LX is better at maneuvering and parking a trailer with the short wheelbase and fulltime unlocked 4wd.
• The LX has unlocked low range, another game changer for boat ramps.

If you want to tow in a vehicle with space for your family and still hit trails after dropping your trailer, the 200 series is where it’s at. I think some on this forum are even substantially heavier than their axle ratings. Their trucks don’t seem to care.

 

[linuxgod]

Hi all - for those towing with their 200, how do you cope with the tiny payload capacity these things have? Our 09 has just over 1,200 lbs. payload and recently bought a 2016 that has 1,300. We are a family of 5 which realistically is close to half the payload just in our combined weight... and the kids are still growing. We are looking at travel trailers and have owned both an Airstream and an Outdoors RV previously (towed with trucks), which I've seen that people have towed both with their 200. I can't imagine I'm the only one with a family? For instance, we've kicked around another Airstream like the Flying Cloud 23 which has a loaded max weight of 6,000 but a real world tongue weight of ~900 lbs. We'd be 200+ lbs over payload with just the trailer and occupants. I'm not sure what I'm hoping for. Perhaps someone to say "these things are much beefier than competitors so feel free to disregard the lame payload capacity". I say that in jest, but I'd really hate to get rid of one of the Cruisers to buy a "proper" tow vehicle. And I'm sick of reading every travel trailer forum that says you need a HD truck to tow a pop-up. Thanks for any wisdom or words of encouragement!

I’ve been using my LC to pull a very very similar weight trailer since 2016. My LC has gone from stock to a moderate overland build and picked up 800# or so over that time. Over that time I’ve pulled the trailer probably 25k miles across the country, over mountain passes, etc. below is my weight at a CAT scale, with a loaded trailer and family of 5, plus some gear

I’ve dealt with windy mountain roads, steep inclines and declines, speeds of 75mph+, emergency braking, and more. The LC handles it fine, IMO. Now that said, my experience and confidence may not translate to you. And I’ve done suspension changes over the years - those can hurt or help performance, depending on how they’re done. So my truck is not stock and not identical to yours

My general impression is that 900# is a lot of tongue weight on factory springs. I’m not saying you need to go drop thousands on suspension mods, but you should look at either Firestone helper airbags or Timbren towing bump stops, as the LC rear spring weight will likely be insufficient for your setup. You should also make sure your alignment has high caster and camber on the lower side, as when you add 900# on the rear the front tires will “move” due to the front axle weight decreasing, and so you should compensate for that.

 

[Slow Paddler]

We head out six weeks from today to pick up our new Oliver Legacy Elite II travel trailer. I've been towing our brakeless 800# Hiker squaredrop, and 40+ years ago towed a 6000# boat behind my grandfather's 50 cu in '68 Sedan de Ville, but that had surge brakes. I've never used electric brakes.

In preparation, I've added Firestone air bags and a Redarc TowPro Elite to our stock '21 LC. I'll be using an Andersen weight distribution hitch. I've read through the Redarc manual a couple of times, and understand its operation, and watched a few videos.

What I don't know, is how to determine how much brake should be set on the controller. I'll be towing on pavement or gravel, so probably always in proportional mode. Should the trailer engage more than the truck? Less?

For reference, the HE without roof rack shows a capacity of 1320 pounds. I've removed the 60% second row seat, which is where the fridge lives, so similar weight. The Oliver weighs between 5-7000 pounds, with a 500 pound stated tongue weight, although I know that's load and balance dependent.

Any suggestions on where to start with the brake control setting? Thanks!

Current setup:

 

[Tex68w]

I usually let the Redarc do its thing in proportional mode. With that kind of weight I’d start in the middle of the gain range and go from there. Ideally you want the trailer to match the braking of the truck or slightly less. If the trailer is out braking the truck at those weights you’re likely to get sway and control issues.

 

[Nothinghead]

If you can get on dirt/gravel, do some test braking from 20-30 mph and see how much gain will cause the trailer brakes to lock up and then turn the gain down just below that.

Of course, if the redarc manual has a different procedure for setting it up, do that.

 

[TeCKis300]

I usually let the Redarc do its thing in proportional mode. With that kind of weight I’d start in the middle of the gain range and go from there. Ideally you want the trailer to match the braking of the truck or slightly less. If the trailer is out braking the truck at those weights you’re likely to get sway and control issues.

I agree with most of this but unless I'm misunderstanding, that's not quite right that you want the trailer to be slightly less braked than the TV.

Sway commonly sets in when the trailer has too much momentum, combined with speed, and is trying to outrun the tow vehicle. Which is why it typically happens in downhill or decel. The recommended strategy to get it under control is to grab the trailer brake manually to get this excess momentum of the trailer under control.

The brakes on the TV stop the TV. The brakes on the trailer stop the trailer. There's a few strategies to set the gain depending on the trailer itself. For a larger heavier travel trailer, I would set the gain such that the combined rig braking feels much the same as without towing. Don't be afraid to set the gain on the upper end if that's what it needs.

 

[Slow Paddler]

The brakes on the TV stop the TV. The brakes on the trailer stop the trailer. There's a few strategies to set the gain depending on the trailer itself. For a larger heavier travel trailer, I would set the gain such that the combined rig braking feels much the same as without towing. Don't be afraid to set the gain on the upper end if that's what it needs.

Thanks!!