Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (10 Viewers)

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A grey water tank that "overflows" into the black water tank? That's a pretty clever idea!
I’ve considered using a 12V pump to transfer. But I don’t think the shurflo pumps will handle any bits of food waste that might pass through the impeller. A decent 120V pump would but then I need an inverter to run it...
 
I have an add on gate-valve on my external dump port, which I can use to either balance the gray/black tank, or link. I can eek out an extra day or two as I likewise fill up the gray tank first. So I'll go to the dump port, make sure external gate valve is shut, open gray tank valve, and momentarily open black tank valve. This pushes excess gray water into the black tank.

Amazon product ASIN B000BGHYJS
 
I have an add on gate-valve on my external dump port, which I can use to either balance the gray/black tank, or link. I can eek out an extra day or two as I likewise fill up the gray tank first. So I'll go to the dump port, make sure external gate valve is shut, open gray tank valve, and momentarily open black tank valve. This pushes excess gray water into the black tank.

Amazon product ASIN B000BGHYJS
If I'm visualizing correctly I technically have the same dual port setup but since the black line t's into the gray at an angle which then goes to "output" I would be afraid in my case nothing would flow back into the black tank...
 
On our RV I had the black and gray tanks level with each other and valved such that I could join the two. When it came time to dump I always dumped black, closed the main dump valve, then set the valves so they were connected. Then "whoosh", quickly close joiner valve, open dump valve. Repeat until empty and flush with some fresh water. These tanks were EACH 50 gallons IIRC so when the gray filled the black you could really tell by listening when they were "balanced".

Fond memories.
 
If I'm visualizing correctly I technically have the same dual port setup but since the black line t's into the gray at an angle which then goes to "output" I would be afraid in my case nothing would flow back into the black tank...

Is the concern that the gray line joins at a angle and that may impact reversal of flow?

Shouldn't really matter as it'll still flow fine with an external gate valve closed. Gravity should govern the flow and will equalize the tank that is more full to the less full tank.
 
Is the concern that the gray line joins at a angle and that may impact reversal of flow?

Shouldn't really matter as it'll still flow fine with an external gate valve closed. Gravity should govern the flow and will equalize the tank that is more full to the less full tank.
The gray tank is “upstream” and the black tank connects “downstream” on its way to the output. My issue is the black tank T is angled, so any grey water by design won’t go into the black tank without making a bit of a U turn
 
The gray tank is “upstream” and the black tank connects “downstream” on its way to the output. My issue is the black tank T is angled, so any grey water by design won’t go into the black tank without making a bit of a U turn

If I'm tracking right, you're describing the junction and how the black tank is T'd in to the dump port after the gray tank?

So long as the gray and black tank are mounted on the same plane which I assume to be in the chassis of the trailer, the plumbing pivots, turns, or u-turns won't matter. Water at higher potential level, aka hydraulic head, will find its way to the tank of lower level.
 
If I'm tracking right, you're describing the junction and how the black tank is T'd in to the dump port after the gray tank?

So long as the gray and black tank are mounted on the same plane which I assume to be in the chassis of the trailer, the plumbing pivots, turns, or u-turns won't matter. Water at higher potential level, aka hydraulic head, will find its way to the tank of lower level.
Hmmm I hadn’t thought of that. I’m still imagining all the smell grey water that will come out when I eventually remove the cap on the end of the dump line though...
 
I had never heard of this tank management technique and did a little research. One thing I discovered is that many trailers drain the bathroom sink into the black tank. I'll have to check this on my Airstream and I hope that is the case so I can use it to manage where the water goes.
 
Hmmm I hadn’t thought of that. I’m still imagining all the smell grey water that will come out when I eventually remove the cap on the end of the dump line though...

The addition of the extra gate valve has some other nice benefits. It minimizes smells and leakage at the cover as there's so little surface area after the valve. Also gives better flow control for any literal oh s*** moments when you need to stop the flow.
 
Wouldn't this be a better idea? Amazon product ASIN B00P3SL35KI know it doesn't meet Teckis' level of tech (LOL) but at worst you could fill it and dump it in the toilet.
Those are only really useful if you’re at a campground with some facilities. If you’re boondocking or at a primitive campground which doesn’t have a dump station, then once you offload the 40 gallons of waste you can’t really take it anywhere to get rid of it
 
I assumed that you could fill it with grey water and ”release” it into the toilet.
 
I assumed that you could fill it with grey water and ”release” it into the toilet.
10 gallons of grey water is going to weigh ~80 lbs, plus the weight of the container. I wouldn't want to try and lift that up into the camper to dump.

It's a bit smelly to do (if there's kitchen food/sediment in the grey tank) but we just use one of these:


I set it under the dump valve and crack the grey water open, let ~2 gallons drain out, then close it, walk it over to the toilet, and dump it in. Rinse, repeat, wipe hands on pants.
 
In the 6 speed yes, either 4th or 5th gear.

If you're pulling a 3500# boat or a turtleback which is pretty aerodynamic and you have stock tires and aero you might be able to pull in 5th, especially on flat lands.

If you have a heavier box or travel trailer, or you have larger tires or non-stock aero, just run in 4th. If you try 5th the torque converter won't stay locked most of the time and your transmission temp will run 10-15F hotter on average, sometimes more
I have a turtleback and 2018 LC. Been towing in 6th and leaving ECT power button off. Seems to tow like a champ in this set up. Does ECT off make more sense to tow than ECT on?
 
I have a turtleback and 2018 LC. Been towing in 6th and leaving ECT power button off. Seems to tow like a champ in this set up. Does ECT off make more sense to tow than ECT on?
ECT just changes the shift point to hold the lower gears longer. If you feel like acceleration is fine you can leave it off. If you feel like it shifts too early when towing and so it’s always shifting before you hit the power band then turn it on. I prefer it because I find especially towing around town the truck will shift to the next gear too early
 
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Agreed.

ECT started as simple Electronic Control Transmission logic for Toyota/Lexus back in the day. The transmission algorithms are more sophisticated today, so while ECT still manipulates transmission logic, it's now a term on its own rather than an acronym, but loosely can be interpreted as Electronic Control Transmission Power

It does several things
- Changes and raises shift points under acceleration, holding gears longer
- Holds gears longer under deceleration/engine braking
- Firmer and more positive shifts, likely with increased hydraulic line pressure
- Increases engine response, by raising throttle pedal to throttle body map aggressiveness

For our cars, it effectively is the tow/haul mode button. It's effects are distinct but can be subtle. As it has utility beyond just towing, like "powerful acceleration and driving in mountainous regions" per the manual, it's disguised as a poorly branded ECT PWR mode button.

I do use it when I tow and makes a good difference with my larger trailer. When not towing, I find the mode aggressive, making driving a bit hurky jerky, loosing acceleration and shifting finesse.
 
Agreed.

ECT started as simple Electronic Control Transmission logic for Toyota/Lexus back in the day. The transmission algorithms are more sophisticated today, so while ECT still manipulates transmission logic, it's now a term on its own rather than an acronym, but loosely can be interpreted as Electronic Control Transmission Power

It does several things
- Changes and raises shift points under acceleration, holding gears longer
- Holds gears longer under deceleration/engine braking
- Firmer and more positive shifts, likely with increased hydraulic line pressure
- Increases engine response, by raising throttle pedal to throttle body map aggressiveness

For our cars, it effectively is the tow/haul mode button. It's effects are distinct but can be subtle. As it has utility beyond just towing, like "powerful acceleration and driving in mountainous regions" per the manual, it's disguised as a poorly branded ECT PWR mode button.

I do use it when I tow and makes a good difference with my larger trailer. When not towing, I find the mode aggressive, making driving a bit hurky jerky, loosing acceleration and shifting finesse.
Makes sense. Thanks for the information! I must say I am very happy I have the V8 in the LC 200 vs trying to tow my turtleback in Colorado with a V6.
 
Shoutout to @TeCKis300 for recommending the equalizer hitch in another thread (I can't find at the moment). I initially was trying the Andersen no-sway system which I loved because it was silent and weighed so little but still had more sway than I wanted for my new 27ft (30 nose to bumper) trailer. Just got back from a short trip in southern ohio where the new WD hitch worked amazingly. Louder, but soooo much more stable.

Since I use the LC for mainly for towing I decided to put some meatier tires on recently too. Went with the Michelin Agilis CrossClimate in size 275/70r18 with some tundra steelies. Heading to the smokies next week and look forward to the new set up

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Shoutout to @TeCKis300 for recommending the equalizer hitch in another thread (I can't find at the moment). I initially was trying the Andersen no-sway system which I loved because it was silent and weighed so little but still had more sway than I wanted for my new 27ft (30 nose to bumper) trailer. Just got back from a short trip in southern ohio where the new WD hitch worked amazingly. Louder, but soooo much more stable.

Since I use the LC for mainly for towing I decided to put some meatier tires on recently too. Went with the Michelin Agilis CrossClimate in size 275/70r18 with some tundra steelies. Heading to the smokies next week and look forward to the new set up

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Whats the bike rack on your roof and how do you like it? We’ve come to the conclusion that the roof is going to be the best (really the only) option for bikes when we tow our camper so I’m just now started to look into these.
 

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