No worries. It is still good technical data. Just really surprised Toyotas receiver hole is so much bigger than the standard one
Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (5 Viewers)
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No worries. It is still good technical data. Just really surprised Toyotas receiver hole is so much bigger than the standard one
My diesel 200 Series tows my Bushtracker caravan very well.
The van is 3500kg (7700lbs), 8.3metres (27ft) from tow hitch to tail lights.
The van is 3500kg (7700lbs), 8.3metres (27ft) from tow hitch to tail lights.
Great thread! I’m slowly putting my new to me 200 series together for towing. I’ll probably be towing mostly dump trailers and flatbeds with logs and lumber etc.. I got the Toyota wiring harness in for trailer lights, ordered a redarc brake controller and now I’m getting ready for airbags.
I want the same setup as linuxgod has, and was wondering if I need to change anything because my 200 has a slight lift. The previous owner had Slee do a small lift, sliders and color matched arb bumpers. Looks sweet..
Let me know if I need to change any components because of the lift.
I want the same setup as linuxgod has, and was wondering if I need to change anything because my 200 has a slight lift. The previous owner had Slee do a small lift, sliders and color matched arb bumpers. Looks sweet..
Let me know if I need to change any components because of the lift.
Did someone say dump trailer?
Great to see someone else putting their 200-series to work.
Yeah I think cruisers in the US are undervalued as a work truck. I’ve used them for years for farm and construction style work. They can’t do everything but they can do a lot. Plus in my area of coastal Oregon they are super handy for getting into and around tight areas that can be hard in a full size pickup.
fireball
SILVER Star
What is the tongue weight of your trailer, and what rear suspension setup are you running?
We tow a ~3000lb camper with ~400lb of tongue weight. I've got very stiff springs in the 100 and trying to decide how to setup the 200. Thinking airbags will be imminent but looking for other options and others experience.
- Thread starter
- #390
The short answer is that you need taller airbags than the stock ones if you have a lift.
The Firestone 4164 airbags are 5.5" diameter and 10" tall and are the ones you use without a lift. With my Tough Dog coils I needed the Firestone 4129 bags, which are the same diameter but 11" tall. Keep in mind the TD lift supposedly adds 2" in the front and 1" in the rear, so these *may* be slightly short as I've heard the OME springs are designed for 2" lift and tend to give you more lift than stated. I don't know if Firestone makes a 12" tall bag... IIRC the 11" was the tallest available when I installed mine.
Side note: The 10 bags have a max 35 PSI rating while the 11" bag have a 30 PSI rating.
The Firestone 4164 airbags are 5.5" diameter and 10" tall and are the ones you use without a lift. With my Tough Dog coils I needed the Firestone 4129 bags, which are the same diameter but 11" tall. Keep in mind the TD lift supposedly adds 2" in the front and 1" in the rear, so these *may* be slightly short as I've heard the OME springs are designed for 2" lift and tend to give you more lift than stated. I don't know if Firestone makes a 12" tall bag... IIRC the 11" was the tallest available when I installed mine.
Side note: The 10 bags have a max 35 PSI rating while the 11" bag have a 30 PSI rating.
- Thread starter
- #391
For 400# of TW you don't really need airbags or stiffer springs. The Toyota factory coils are 170#/in and the factory suspension has about 1" of rake, so if the TW is really 400# then you'll only compress about ~2-2.5". I would just get a decent WD hitch that has sway control (I love my BlueOx but for a small trailer the Anderson is probably a good bet) which will help you move 100# or so off the tongue and you'll be fine.
That said you should weigh your trailer tongue, as you're likely to find it weighs a lot more than you'd think. I borrowed a scale from @Sandroad and was shocked to find my TW which is rated by the manufacturer at 550# *with propane* (but no battery) was actually 770# (with a 70# battery). If you are closer to 600# then I would look at the OME variable rate coils which are 270 to 340#/in or if you want a reasonably priced mild lift I'd highly recommend the 45mm Tough Dog adjustable setup that @reevesci sells.
My Heavy OME springs did great towing across Colorado- Wyoming-Utah 
I know one pic is a repost Since we were talking springs and air bags thought it was relevant and this worked the heavy trailer a lot more than highway driving
I know one pic is a repost
Since we were talking springs and air bags thought it was relevant and this worked the heavy trailer a lot more than highway driving
So I looked over my records and my 200 has the ome722 medium 3/4” lift rear coil in it. With the n210 ome nitrocharger shock HD.
Whatcha think Linuxgod? Should I go with the 10” or 11” airbag? I’m leaning towards 11” because a 3/4” lift is closer to 1” lift like you have. And you seem to like the 11” bag on your truck.
Whatcha think Linuxgod? Should I go with the 10” or 11” airbag? I’m leaning towards 11” because a 3/4” lift is closer to 1” lift like you have. And you seem to like the 11” bag on your truck.
- Thread starter
- #395
Go with the 11" bags. OME is known for the springs being taller than advertised, but more importantly with only a nominal PSI in the bags when unloaded they will really compress a lot anyway. The taller bag will ensure they give you the most support when you are loaded and need to fully inflate them. If you don't need as much rear height recovery you can always put less air in them.
I am trying to get an idea of how much I have taken away from my 2015 LC's max tongue weight of 850lbs with modifications and optional gear.
I have an ARB rear bumper with a jerry can carrier. The 3rd row of seats have been removed and I have installed Front Runner's 2-drawer kit.
The ARB bumper weighs ~221lbs and I am not sure of the difference in weight between the previous bumper and the ARB bumper. Add 30lbs for the 5 gallon jerry can. The drawer kit weighs 170lbs and contains ~50 lbs of gear.
I would assume that the additional weight of the ARB bumper and jerry can (~250lbs (minus the weight of the stock bumper)) is a hit against my tongue weight capability?
As the drawer system is over the rear axle, I would assume that the full weight of the drawers (~220lbs) would not could against the tongue weight capability? How much of the weight from the drawers should I consider a hit against the tongue weight capability? Also, I assume some offset in weight by the removal of the 3rd row - but I am not sure how much those seats weigh.
I use a WD hitch (EAZ -Lift) that is ~90lbs .... again, I assume this is another hit on my tongue weight capability?
Based on these modifications and optional gear - how much tongue weight capability do I have left?
I have been towing a travel trailer (21' 6", single axle, 400lbs dry hitch weight) for the last two years but am looking to upgrade (24' 8", two axels, 520lbs dry hitch weight).
We take about 9-10 weeks during the summer and travel around to national parks - usually about 7000 - 10,000 per summer.
Thank you for the assistance,
Kansas Scott
I have an ARB rear bumper with a jerry can carrier. The 3rd row of seats have been removed and I have installed Front Runner's 2-drawer kit.
The ARB bumper weighs ~221lbs and I am not sure of the difference in weight between the previous bumper and the ARB bumper. Add 30lbs for the 5 gallon jerry can. The drawer kit weighs 170lbs and contains ~50 lbs of gear.
I would assume that the additional weight of the ARB bumper and jerry can (~250lbs (minus the weight of the stock bumper)) is a hit against my tongue weight capability?
As the drawer system is over the rear axle, I would assume that the full weight of the drawers (~220lbs) would not could against the tongue weight capability? How much of the weight from the drawers should I consider a hit against the tongue weight capability? Also, I assume some offset in weight by the removal of the 3rd row - but I am not sure how much those seats weigh.
I use a WD hitch (EAZ -Lift) that is ~90lbs .... again, I assume this is another hit on my tongue weight capability?
Based on these modifications and optional gear - how much tongue weight capability do I have left?
I have been towing a travel trailer (21' 6", single axle, 400lbs dry hitch weight) for the last two years but am looking to upgrade (24' 8", two axels, 520lbs dry hitch weight).
We take about 9-10 weeks during the summer and travel around to national parks - usually about 7000 - 10,000 per summer.
Thank you for the assistance,
Kansas Scott
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I’ll take a WAG that you have about 520 lbs of tongue weight capacity remaining.
221 ARB - 101 original bumper = 120 lbs additional
Plus 30 lb jerry can additional
220 drawers and stuff - 70 on front axle = 150 lbs additional
Plus 90 lb WDH additional
Minus 60 lbs for the removed rear seats (some of the weight was on the front axle)
Equals 330 lbs additional
850-330 = 520 lbs.
But (and this is a big but!), you mentioned a 520 lb dry hitch weight on the new trailer (and for that matter a 400 lb dry hitch weight on your current trailer). Dry hitch weights are guesses on the part of the manufacturer as far as I’m concerned and have little relation to “going down the road” hitch weight. I have a tongue weight scale and every single person who has used it has been surprised at how heavy the tongue is on their trailer when loaded. So, you’re really smart to account for the tongue weight issue with your LC and you may want to consider what the new trailer will load your LC with when going down the road.
Well I took your advice linuxgod and went with those 11” bags and installed the compressor and controller in the rear cargo compartment. Got a redarc brake controller and it’s towing great, did a 5500 pound dump trailer with loads of rock today.
