I literally replaced my battery today and it never crossed my mind to check the tow controller, thanks for this reminder.
Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (3 Viewers)
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Right on. I usually have connection problems with my current trailer on the first trip of the year with the redarc in my LX but also had “no trailer connected” on the 2500 Sierra with built in TBC. I’ve learned a trip around the block usually resolves the issue.
Not having brakes is no bueno for a bigger trailer and can't leave it to chance if the 7-pin connection is flakey. Might need electronics contact cleaner on the both the 7-pin receptacle and trailer plug every now and then. There's a ton of different cleaners from CRC, dielectric types, some even use WD-40, etc. This WD specialist contact cleaner is what I would recommend. Super cheap and easy to get, and good to have along with the trailer.
It's very possible to wear out the 7-pin trailer connector too and is worth replacing. Some plugs inherently have slopy geometry and contacts that don't quite meet spec. I like this CURT unit as a replacement.
It's very possible to wear out the 7-pin trailer connector too and is worth replacing. Some plugs inherently have slopy geometry and contacts that don't quite meet spec. I like this CURT unit as a replacement.
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
I replaced the 7 pin on my "new" trailer with a Curt 7 pin and wire. The old connector was a Pollak brand and was a piece of junk.
It's in my junk box to be used as a spare if I ever need it in an emergency.
I also added a junction box to make future additions to the 7 pin wiring easier: I plan to add a TPMS that requires a transmitter.
I looked tor a 7 pin plug that had a "V" configuration on the contacts which supposedly provides greater contact.
CURT 56603 Replacement 7-Pin RV Blade Trailer Wiring Harness Plug, 10-Foot Blunt-Cut Wires
https://www.amazon.com/56603-Replacement-7-Way-Blade-Harness/dp/B00G5CGHOU/
I also used CorrosionX on the new 7 pin plug and on Toyota's 7 pin receiver.
- Thread starter
- #2,265
Some of my contacts seemed to have separated, which occasionally makes getting good contact tough. I've considered replacing my 7-pin connector, but it usually works and I've taken to just turning on my lights and hazards when I hook up and if they're not working I just unplug and re-connect and it seems to be fine. I might swap the 7-pin with the above next spring, though I'm tempted to sell the trailer as we've only used it for one trip the last 2 summers, and with my daughter in college and the boys getting older while using the camper for travel is cheap and convenient I'm not sure it's worth keeping for one trip per year.
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
Since I had to replace the 7 pin on my "new" trailer due to it cracking on the first trip I couldn't just replace the 7 pin plug and leave well enough alone.
Nooooooooo.
So I added a junction box and as I mentioned above, replaced the plug and wire from the tow vehicle.
I didn't like the pre-fab junction boxes for trailers (shocker) so I made my own.
This isolates the wiring from the trailer meaning if I ever need to repair the wire from the tow vehicle I can do it without disturbing wiring to the trailer. I armored the wiring from the box to the trailer so it should "never" need any maintenance.
My trailer doesn't use the yellow wire and the 2 black + wires (from the tow vehicle and from the trailer) sit on terminals that are not connected at the moment. The black wire from the tow vehicle will eventually power a TPMS transmitter.
The wires on the new 7 pin (coming into the box on the left) are much heavier gauge than the wires going to the trailer. The black + and white - wires are 10 AWG!
Wires from the tow vehicle come in on the left and are on the top of the terminal block; they exit to the trailer on the right and are on the bottom of the terminal block.
Nooooooooo.
So I added a junction box and as I mentioned above, replaced the plug and wire from the tow vehicle.
I didn't like the pre-fab junction boxes for trailers (shocker) so I made my own.
This isolates the wiring from the trailer meaning if I ever need to repair the wire from the tow vehicle I can do it without disturbing wiring to the trailer. I armored the wiring from the box to the trailer so it should "never" need any maintenance.
My trailer doesn't use the yellow wire and the 2 black + wires (from the tow vehicle and from the trailer) sit on terminals that are not connected at the moment. The black wire from the tow vehicle will eventually power a TPMS transmitter.
The wires on the new 7 pin (coming into the box on the left) are much heavier gauge than the wires going to the trailer. The black + and white - wires are 10 AWG!
Wires from the tow vehicle come in on the left and are on the top of the terminal block; they exit to the trailer on the right and are on the bottom of the terminal block.
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having a junction box is such a massive advantage when it comes to any type of wiring troubleshooting.Since I had to replace the 7 pin on my "new" trailer due to it cracking on the first trip I couldn't just replace the 7 pin plug and leave well enough alone.
Nooooooooo.
So I added a junction box and as I mentioned above, replaced the plug and wire from the tow vehicle.
I didn't like the pre-fab junction boxes for trailers (shocker) so I made my own.
This isolates the wiring from the trailer meaning if I ever need to repair the wire from the tow vehicle I can do it without disturbing wiring to the trailer. I armored the wiring from the box to the trailer so it should "never" need any maintenance.
My trailer doesn't use the yellow wire and the 2 black + wires (from the tow vehicle and from the trailer) sit on terminals that are not connected at the moment. The black wire from the tow vehicle will eventually power a TPMS transmitter.
The wires on the new 7 pin (coming into the box on the left) are much heavier gauge than the wires going to the trailer. The black + and white - wires are 10 AWG!
View attachment 3785654
Wires from the tow vehicle come in on the left and are on the top of the terminal block; they exit to the trailer on the right and are on the bottom of the terminal block.
View attachment 3785655
@skrypj and @82SC
Just catching up on this Redarc Brake controller issue you are discussing. In short there is a newer version out there EBRH-ACCV3-NA TowPro Elite V3. Redarc replaced mine in April 2023 for free from a Nov 2020 with model number EBRH-ACCV2E (see photo below).
the story...
In Nov 2020 I bought a Tow Pro Elite and initially it seemed to work ok. Then after a couple of trips I had to plug in and out several times at the 7 pin connector to make the electric brake work. Eventually really struggled to have the brakes work. As pointed out, no bueno with a serious travel trailer.
I also went from my own soldered wiring harness to the TPH-021, noting from online pictures it included a ground wire. This did not make it any better, although I had hoped so.
Then decided to contact Redarc at power@redarcelectronics.com per my original invoice. They came back quick, asked me about the vehicle, wire harness I used and asked me to take a picture of the controller label with model and serial number (see copy below). They then came back pretty much immediately offering an upgrade/replacement with the above mentioned model number & name - EBRH-ACCV3-NA TowPro Elite V3 and they shipped it to me for free, asking me to send the old one back.
Has been perfect since then, although at low speed (~10 mph) coming to a stop at traffic lights or at stop and go traffic jams i have at times a travel trailer wheel lock up. This happens for me at power setting of around 4-1/2 and can be annoying. I try to adjust the way I brake to prevent this. Still locks up at times and the abrupt brake effect can be felt in the car. Not nice for my wife or passengers not expecting this. It must be noted this can also be the travel trailer brakes, although at higher speeds they have been fine. By the way, this behavior was also the same with the original one I purchased so remains unclear whether this is my trailer or a redarc issue, or both...
All in all check the version you have and get it replaced as required.
Overall do like the redarc towpro as it is build into the dash. Wish it was a bit smoother at low speeds. I recall there is now another brand on the market with a similar perhaps slightly bigger control knob. I would probably try that having a second chance at it. I think it is this one - Spectrum Integrated Proportional Trailer Brake Controller - https://www.curtmfg.com/part/51170. Pehaps some mudders have gone this route and can provide feedback.
Just catching up on this Redarc Brake controller issue you are discussing. In short there is a newer version out there EBRH-ACCV3-NA TowPro Elite V3. Redarc replaced mine in April 2023 for free from a Nov 2020 with model number EBRH-ACCV2E (see photo below).
the story...
In Nov 2020 I bought a Tow Pro Elite and initially it seemed to work ok. Then after a couple of trips I had to plug in and out several times at the 7 pin connector to make the electric brake work. Eventually really struggled to have the brakes work. As pointed out, no bueno with a serious travel trailer.
I also went from my own soldered wiring harness to the TPH-021, noting from online pictures it included a ground wire. This did not make it any better, although I had hoped so.
Then decided to contact Redarc at power@redarcelectronics.com per my original invoice. They came back quick, asked me about the vehicle, wire harness I used and asked me to take a picture of the controller label with model and serial number (see copy below). They then came back pretty much immediately offering an upgrade/replacement with the above mentioned model number & name - EBRH-ACCV3-NA TowPro Elite V3 and they shipped it to me for free, asking me to send the old one back.
Has been perfect since then, although at low speed (~10 mph) coming to a stop at traffic lights or at stop and go traffic jams i have at times a travel trailer wheel lock up. This happens for me at power setting of around 4-1/2 and can be annoying. I try to adjust the way I brake to prevent this. Still locks up at times and the abrupt brake effect can be felt in the car. Not nice for my wife or passengers not expecting this. It must be noted this can also be the travel trailer brakes, although at higher speeds they have been fine. By the way, this behavior was also the same with the original one I purchased so remains unclear whether this is my trailer or a redarc issue, or both...
All in all check the version you have and get it replaced as required.
Overall do like the redarc towpro as it is build into the dash. Wish it was a bit smoother at low speeds. I recall there is now another brand on the market with a similar perhaps slightly bigger control knob. I would probably try that having a second chance at it. I think it is this one - Spectrum Integrated Proportional Trailer Brake Controller - https://www.curtmfg.com/part/51170. Pehaps some mudders have gone this route and can provide feedback.
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FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
Same exact model I have. We've only done a few trips but with no issues. Hmmmmmm....
Seems the new one has NA in the model number. Perhaps it needed adjustment for the US market and electric brakes we use.Same exact model I have. We've only done a few trips but with no issues. Hmmmmmm....
I would contact them and say you struggle at times. It is not pleasant when you have issues making the brakes work when on a trip already.
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FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
Well I should say so!
On a semi-related note I told the dealer prior to picking up the trailer that I had a new trailer brake controller but it had never been hooked up to a trailer and tested. I performed REDARC's light bulb test that they publish on my own and it passed but that's not too definitive.
So they trotted out this thing and had me apply the brakes, change the settings on the dial, go into and out of manual mode etc...
It helped that they were very familiar with the controller and testing with it prior to hooking up gave me a huge confidence boost.
Electric Brake Force Meter With Dynamic Load Simulation And Circuit Testing
Electric Brake Force Meter | Test Vehicle Trailer Light - https://ipatools.com/product/9107b-electric-brake-force-meter-with-dynamic-load-simulation-and-circuit-testing-3rd-gen/
Roger that. I am an Engineer and I have no lack of confidence…
Extra service can be helpful, although there are many clowns out there... When we bought a 29 body length travel trailer for our daughter and son in law towing it with their Ford Expedition Max they had no clue how to setup a weight distribution hitch. They did not know how to jack up and then put the arms in place and lower it down to put load (force) into them. This was with 3 guys from the dealer helping us, unreal. I argued a bit with them and they were too stupid and lazy to do it right, so we left and set it up at home. The world seems to be full of halbstarken (that translates directly to "the half strongs"). It is sad. Lack of education, lack of interest and lack of brains is wide spread.
Extra service can be helpful, although there are many clowns out there... When we bought a 29 body length travel trailer for our daughter and son in law towing it with their Ford Expedition Max they had no clue how to setup a weight distribution hitch. They did not know how to jack up and then put the arms in place and lower it down to put load (force) into them. This was with 3 guys from the dealer helping us, unreal. I argued a bit with them and they were too stupid and lazy to do it right, so we left and set it up at home. The world seems to be full of halbstarken (that translates directly to "the half strongs"). It is sad. Lack of education, lack of interest and lack of brains is wide spread.
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Yup they did the exact same thing for me and sent me that NA model. Wonder if there was an issue with the old one
Also redarc sent me this. Another reason to use the redarc harness. I guess there is a diode to prevent electrical feedback to the car….
Took the trailer out for a quick spin as I was repositioning it. And no errors and running smooth for me but will report once I have some long term data.
Also redarc sent me this. Another reason to use the redarc harness. I guess there is a diode to prevent electrical feedback to the car….
Took the trailer out for a quick spin as I was repositioning it. And no errors and running smooth for me but will report once I have some long term data.
Has anyone tried running air bags in the coils on theback of an LX570 to take some load off the AHC system with a trailer hooked up? Im just wondering if it could run a little lower pressure and maybe be a little happier with a 600+ lb tongue weight on the back.
If so, any advice on what bags fit? And does anyone know if there are bags that fit on a lifted truck vs a stock height?
If so, any advice on what bags fit? And does anyone know if there are bags that fit on a lifted truck vs a stock height?
AHC can easily handle 600lbs of tongue weight. We've got folks here that have even more.
I've got 30mm spacers installed under my rear coils to make AHC's job a little easier, but I'm not 100% sure they're necessary.
Keep in mind that AHC does not only go up, but it also goes down, and the presence of inflated air bags might interfere with that downward movement and cause issues.
I have airbag helpers from AU airbag man I believe on my 2013. I tow about 9500lb and inflate the bags to about 12-15lbs and the truck seems to be happy. Key points that I have learned is your load have to be level with your truck. Also, I believe airbag man have bags for lifted trucks.
Is that on a LX? If so, good to hear that AHC isn't affected!
Understood but why not offload a bit, especially when there are also 4 people and a bunch of gear in the car in addition to the tongue weight. You dont need to fill the bags to 100 psi, you could run them at 15-20 and they will still support some load.
You can certainly do so. But keep in mind tongue weight is generally a good thing - it improves trailer stability. The only caveat is that it should not be so much so as to negatively affect your vehicle itself/vehicle stability.
Most people want less tongue weight because their vehicles cannot handle it, squat in the rear, etc. The LX w/ AHC generally handles tongue weight like a champ. On my last few trailers I've gone out of my way to add tongue weight.
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I have bags in my LX but don't always use them. AHC is self adjusting for spring rate and damping so there's little to no performance difference using bags especially if your overall weight between payload and tongue weight is within AHCs capacity. Provided one did not sensor lift without augmenting the system properly, AHC has quite a bit of margin.
My 8k lb Airstream has a 1200lb tongue. On shorter weekend trips, it'll be my family of 4, with about 150lbs worth of gear in the back. Call it 650 lbs payload + 1200lbs tongue, or 1850 lbs total. AHC has no problem manhandling that without bags, with a proper weight distribution setup.
Caveat is if you want to use AHC high which mine will marginally lift to without bags. Challenge there is it unloads WD tension and coil spring tension, putting all the load on the rear axle hydraulics. Bags with ~15psi pressure helps in this use case.
When I'm fully laden for say a 10 day long road trip with a family of 6 in the car and additional gear - well outside of AHC capacity at 2200lbs payload - that's when I'll supplement with bags.
If you're nowhere near these weights, AHC is plenty capable without help.
The other reason to have bags is to be able to manually level the rig for car camping. Though ramps ,blocks, and rocks work just as well for that.
