Have you tried reading one of the sensors with your Schrader tool?
Seems like there is a setting to just read an unknown and gather info, I’ll look into it.
Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (2 Viewers)
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Have you tried reading one of the sensors with your Schrader tool?
Seems like there is a setting to just read an unknown and gather info, I’ll look into it.
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
Regarding the stove-piping in various industries - agree 100%. However, I would ASSUME (uh-oh) that frequencies would be highly regulated by the FCC and there would be only a few to choose from.
So I'll have to get the sensors mounted in the tires and then mount & wire the repeater. I'm thinking the best way to do this is to add a waterproof junction box with terminals onto the tongue that connects the 7 pin cable from the LC and the cable to the trailer. Then, draw off the LC power from the new junction box to the transmitter. This is spinning out. Stuff like this always does it seems.
The first thing the tool asks is what make and model vehicle is the sensor on. I just stopped there because mine are working and I didn’t want to proceed and end up with a bricked sensor.
You’re over thinking this… my repeater is mounted behind this panel. I think all it requires is a 12v power source.Regarding the stove-piping in various industries - agree 100%. However, I would ASSUME (uh-oh) that frequencies would be highly regulated by the FCC and there would be only a few to choose from.
So I'll have to get the sensors mounted in the tires and then mount & wire the repeater. I'm thinking the best way to do this is to add a waterproof junction box with terminals onto the tongue that connects the 7 pin cable from the LC and the cable to the trailer. Then, draw off the LC power from the new junction box to the transmitter. This is spinning out. Stuff like this always does it seems.
Yeah I went out and played with ours earlier and that was the case as well.
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
OH!!! The repeater is described as weatherproof. I therefore assumed it had to be very close (i.e. outdoors on the trailer) to the sensors. I can certainly give it a try.
Wire it up and test it out inside before you go through the hassle of mounting it. I can only comment on the ARB set up but inside the d pillar works just fine. If there’s a interior wiring option I always try to go that route first.
Stepping up my datalogging game to an iPad mini 
I dont know about a sound, ill have to look deeper into the app(OBDLink). I setup the coolant gauge to go yellow above 210 and red above 220. The transmission I trigger yellow at 235 and red at 250.
If you are getting coolant over 210 though, I think something is up. I've hammered on mine in some hot weather at high elevation and never seen it go much over 200. The highest ive seen is ~203 and that is actually if im at lower RPM. Once I hit a hill and start spinning higher RPM the temperature actually comes down
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I like what you have and how it looks and it is easy to see.
As a different and less nice setup, I am considering getting an ultra gauge mounted on the left side of the steering wheel above the vent. It is anold school basic small display. It does appear to have audible alarms, so I like that for when my wife drives it.
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Parden my ignorance, why would these be of particular interest?
Because Racecar. Some of it is just my own curiosity and some of it is just carryover from logging my Ecoboost F150.
MAF because it gives you an indication of horsepower. 1 lb/min roughly equals 10 hp.
Barometric pressure just because I am towing at higher elevations and it will tell me how much less power the truck will make. This picture is at my house at 6500' and so the engine will be making ~20% less power than sea level. This is confirmed by the MAF which maxes out at 31 lb/min(going back to the 1 lb/min = 10 hp rule that math works out.) When I had my F150 it also gave me an idea of the turbo compressor pressure ratio when I was tuned. I tended to try to keep it from going to high by downshifting.
KCLV and KF just because it gives you an idea of the health of the ignition timing. If you were to get a bad batch of fuel or something you would see it in the KCLV. Also to test if increased octane matters. I personally have not seen the KCLV move much when I increase octane. I experimented my last trip by putting boostane in the tank to bump my normal 91 octane to 94 and did not see a notable increase in KCLV.
The A/F Sensors give an idea of where the truck will start to go rich. You could in theory drive around that and try to keep the air fuel ratio up with strategic downshifts. I got pretty good at this in my F150 where I knew that anything >325 ft-lbs sustained and my AFR would start to drop, so I would try to manually downshift to keep it elevated and improve MPG's.
Interesting, thanks for the detailed explanation.
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
Here's one I never understood...why does the "A/T Oil Temperature 3" read so low? Mine does the same thing often reading well below ambient. It's the only temperature reading that acts this way AFAIK.
So I figured out something today. I was changing out the TPMS sensor IDs for my winter tires and I noticed that the sensors that hadn't been detected yet were reading -40. I have seen that number in other threads. I believe it is just a standard meaningless number Toyota assigns to temps that haven't been determined or reached the minimum threshold yet.
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
OK that could be it!
Thanks I didn't think of that as a possibility but I probably should have because that's typical of telemetry*.
However, yesterday I was doing a few 30 minute errands and had the dashboard up and saw A/T oil temp 1 & 3 as 120 &41 at the start of the trip!
You still may be right because later on the readings were 131 & 93.
I took screenshots to remember.
Geesh.
TL;DR
*The reason I think I should have known better is that I used to do the software for satellite ground systems. The thing about satellites, at least the ones I dealt with, is that you just don't ask them "Hey give me so and so value(s) now". Rather, they send their data down in spurts called frames or packets that are a subset of the entire memory. So when you connect to a satellite you listen and start filling in the blanks like adding pieces to a jigsaw puzzle. Like a puzzle, you get the whole picture over a period of time. If the satellite comm is fast, that period is short. In any event, the ground software shouldn't display "0.0" if the value hasn't been received. There were workarounds such as using color and status to denote "haven't heard yet" for a value but generally displaying "0" in such cases was a no-no.The thing is, mine will creep up over time to match or even surpass AT oil temp 1. Its almost as if the scaling or intercept is incorrect in the PID equation.
Both my OBDLink and Launch x431 diagnostics tool have the same issue. The launch tool is basically Techstream and can perform all of the same functions so I suspect the issue may also be present in Techstream.
If I remember right from tuning my Jeep Liberty CRD, which I was doing with a Binary editor so I could literally read the actual code line by line, a lot of the temperature sensors only had a range down to -40. The temps were in the pcm as Kelvin but that was usually the floor.
Also, Bosch documentation for their temperature/manifold absolute pressure sensors only shows a range of -40 to +130C. So I kinda just think that’s a floor for the temp sensors in general
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Will she tow 8k lbs on 37s?
Just getting back from a trip in the mountains. Relieved the answer is yes!
For context, this is on 37x12.5R18 @ 50PSI. 28mm effective offset with 18x8 +60 wheels on 1.25" spacers. 4.3 gearing. Last scaled at 15,620 lbs and 1200lbs tongue.
Observations.
Pros
- Stability is still solid and excellent, including steep grades downhill. No untoward sway or stability concerns to speak of.
- No steering pull on power or braking, solid tracking on freeway to 80mph+
- Got my "4.5 gear" back as 4.3s on 35x12.5 put RPMs a bit high at freeway cruise but not able to grab 5th. MPG didn't seem to take much of any hit because of this.
- Gearing and braking are compromised a bit from pretty much OEM gearing with 35s, but still good enough
- Smooth down the freeway and rides like butter. I went higher on inflation pressure (50psi) than necessary to make sure I had enough stability with all the sidewall. Could probably come down a bit.
Cons
- Cornering, gearing, and braking probably gave up 5-10% over the previous 35s on 20" wheel setup, on account of the taller tires, smaller 18" wheels, Yoko X-AT R/T tires, and higher center of gravity. Still a solid towing machine!
Just getting back from a trip in the mountains. Relieved the answer is yes!
For context, this is on 37x12.5R18 @ 50PSI. 28mm effective offset with 18x8 +60 wheels on 1.25" spacers. 4.3 gearing. Last scaled at 15,620 lbs and 1200lbs tongue.
Observations.
Pros
- Stability is still solid and excellent, including steep grades downhill. No untoward sway or stability concerns to speak of.
- No steering pull on power or braking, solid tracking on freeway to 80mph+
- Got my "4.5 gear" back as 4.3s on 35x12.5 put RPMs a bit high at freeway cruise but not able to grab 5th. MPG didn't seem to take much of any hit because of this.
- Gearing and braking are compromised a bit from pretty much OEM gearing with 35s, but still good enough
- Smooth down the freeway and rides like butter. I went higher on inflation pressure (50psi) than necessary to make sure I had enough stability with all the sidewall. Could probably come down a bit.
Cons
- Cornering, gearing, and braking probably gave up 5-10% over the previous 35s on 20" wheel setup, on account of the taller tires, smaller 18" wheels, Yoko X-AT R/T tires, and higher center of gravity. Still a solid towing machine!
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Impressive numbers on weight, especially going through mountains. The cruiser is no slouch and eager to put in the work when called upon.
How did the rear air psi fluctuate with this weight? Currently, for my weight (rear axle around 5k) I’ve been running 40-42 psi and, in the past have experimented with running slightly higher in the rear in for the additional weight (45psi). Having jumped to 17 inch wheels from the stock 18 inch I’ve found that my rear air pressure to be more stable. I had expected the opposite due to more sidewall to flex building more heat but, so far, it’s only moved 2-3 psi versus 5-6 on the stock 18’s.
