Tornado takes the top off 1964 SWB FJ-45

[scrapdaddy]

Good info!

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Wiring work v2 or v3, not really sure.. I had completed a hazard circuit on @Chef 's FJ45 and really liked the safety addition. SO decided to add Hazards to my truck as well. NOT that easy.. I'm not @Coolerman but i managed to get it done. While i was in there i was cleaning up / replacing some connectors i have gotten from coolerman. Relooming everything in heat resistant split loom and Tesa 51036 Harness tape. Still a long ways to go.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Waiting on a few deliveries. Getting a few things done prior to test fire # whatever.. after new stuff.. Main cab wiring harness is pretty much installed. Need to finish mount a fuse block. Tested hazards, reverse, brake, turn, park, head, horn, etc.. All getting volts! Cut down / modified a bib park light to clear the 60 power steering box.
Wired the AC idle up into the HVAC harness. Hopefully that will work. Need to plug in the injection harness on the firewall and install some grommets.. Mounted the fuel filter, installed the diagnostic pressure gauges. Shortened the main high pressure feed line from the frame. YouTube taught me to use my soldering iron with a hot knife blade to remove high pressure push lock fittings for reuse.
This truck will have fuel pressure diagnostic gauges on the rail (cold start injector) and the out of the filter. The adapter for the cold start injector gauge is from here Fuel Pressure Gauge Kit 22RE 3VZ (EFI) - https://www.lceperformance.com/Fuel-Pressure-Gauge-Kit-22RE-3VZ-EFI-p/2019128.htm
The one in the top of the fuel filter is a Russell Banjo Bolt PN 640700 i believe.
Waiting on an AN adapter to run return line from engine to tank. Somewhere in the garage is my return fitting. 3fe's run a 5/16 return, my old adapter was a hodgepodge of fittings so best to get the correct one and not stack reducers.

Transmission oil is here, had to do some research on what an H55f likes. ended up with Mobil Delvac Synthetic 50. Lots of mud info on H55 fluids.. Glad i didn't just toss 90 wt in there like i planned!
Bled the brakes last night, so have pedal again. Waiting on some MIDI style fuse holders from BlueSea to replace the fusilble links in the FJ62 harness. They are old and bulky, didn't like being passed thru the firewall. I know i have a newer oem fuel pulsation dampener on this engine but pretty sure i have not ever replaced the fuel pressure regulator. So will prob order one for safety sake.
Still to come, rewiring the fusible links, building battery cables, trying to get the correct belts. I will try and bleed the clutch tonight. Need to pull the clutch slave to install the boot fork.

 

[Chef]

fluid filled gauges: fancy.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

a little wiring cleanup of the fusible links.
the OEM links are as follows
EFI Yellow .85 Red 50amp
Headlight red .5 Green 40amp
Ignition AM1 Black .5 Green 40 amp
Ignition AM2 Black/G .5 Green 40 amp
Alt White 1.25 Black 80amp
Info in this thread FJ62 Fusible Link Fuse Equivalents? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj62-fusible-link-fuse-equivalents.990348/

Replaced the fusible links with blue sea fuse holders which house MIDI/AMI fuses PN 7720 and 7725
SafetyHub 100 Fuse Block - Blue Sea Systems - https://www.bluesea.com/products/7725/SafetyHub_100_Fuse_Block
AMI / MIDI Safety Fuse Block - Blue Sea Systems - https://www.bluesea.com/products/7720/AMI___MIDI_Safety_Fuse_Block

Cleaned up the junction blocks on the fenders using Blue Sea 2508
Terminal Block 30A - 8 Circuit - Blue Sea Systems - https://www.bluesea.com/products/2508/Terminal_Block_30A_-_8_Circuit

Still final testing circuits, cleaning up some wiring and waiting on correct v belts. V belt sizing is not an easy process when the local parts monkeys cannot help.
Battery tray is mounted, Tcase and H55f have fluid. Brakes were bled. I feel like there might be a light at the end of the tunnel.

 

[Curtice]

Question on your fusible links as I’m starting to look at this for my 3FE FJ40 project. I can’t wait until I see some light at the end of the tunnel. Anyway...

I’m planning to use the FJ40 ignition and wiring, and tap into it where needed for engine control. As such, I was planning to use the the 40 fusible links (or modern equivalent) and add FL for new items (EFI, 3FE alt). But looks like you are using all of the donor fusible links (or modern equivalent)? I thought I had read earlier in your thread that you kept the 45 harness for the non engine stuff, but maybe misremember. Anyway, bottom line question is how did you determine which FL/Amp ratings?

thanks.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

@Curtice you are correct on many of your statements.
To figure the amp needed to replace the fusible links i let others tread ahead of me.. FJ62 Fusible Link Fuse Equivalents? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj62-fusible-link-fuse-equivalents.990348/
The fusible link is based on the oem color of the link and the size of the wire. Follow that link above..

I did re-use the 45 harness for some things. I used parts from an approx 1976-78 harness for the rest. I swapped steering columns to the newer style (well newer is relative, say 1976-1980 style?. I used the 3fe harness for the engine.
FJ40/45 harness for headlights, turn, brake, horn, hazard.. FJ62 harness for engine. If i were to do this again i would just use the full 62 harness. Total waste of time trying to add circuits where needed. Biggest challenge was this section of the ignition switch..

Tornado takes the top off 1964 SWB FJ-45

3/4 plug is on my list. Going to have to order one. Nobody stocks them in the burbs.

forum.ih8mud.com

Ask away and i'll try and answer what i know.. Trying to make this educational as well.

 

[Curtice]

Cool thanks. I read through that thread, but still had questions. Part of it is I don’t think I even know what I don’t know . I’ll read through again and try to digest it. My biggest question was should I use the FJ40 FL for ignition. (I have a 78 with the stock column.) I was planning to, but that circuit will now be responsible for more stuff so I need to figure out if it changes the amperage requirements.

I do like the idea of a clean setup using modern parts like what you have. Just need to plan it out first. I’ll definitely ask questions.

 

[Chef]

That’s great work

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

York bracket v2.0. I have been fighting v belts for the last couple weeks. I'll dive into how to read v belt sizing later.. My york wouldn't allow any swing to get a belt on so needed to redo my mounting bracket. Luckily i have a very tired 3fe on a stand here in the garage i can use for mock up. Cut one of the old mounting brackets off the york, did some cad (cardboard aided design) marked the blind holes with a transfer punch and some "Marilyn Red" lipstick. Little drill press action, tack welds and voila.. she now can swing down to allow for the belt to be mounted. This post is really to show how lipstick is a useful tool in the mancave. Your color preference may vary.
The York is mounted on the old FJ62 power steering pass side mount in case anyone is curious.

 

[trainrech]

Question on the rotation of the York - will that affect the life of the compressor since the crankcase isn't set level?

 

[mwalls54]

Question on the rotation of the York - will that affect the life of the compressor since the crankcase isn't set level?

Thats the only question? not why he has Marilyn Red lipstick lol

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

@trainrech a plethora of information here York Onboard Air Compressor - https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/york_compressor.shtml
including at the bottom of the link 2 service manuals. I did replace the input seals and bearing on this york over the winter when i swapped to the wider pulley. I will go into more detail later this summer on plumbing the onboard air with the check valve and a tank. Not there yet but the parts are waiting.
The York compressor can be mounted flat, angled or upright. The suction port should be on top when mounted at an angle. Also, the compressor will work whether it's spun clockwise, or counter clockwise.
Not sure why the suction needs to be higher. And to be honest, I will have to look at the york I grabbed to see which port is higher.
I did modify the internal oiling system to slow the pumping of the internal lubrication oil thru the system. This link explains that in detail.

York Compressor Oil System Modification – Jedi.com

There is another way via an internal passage and a self tapping screw.
I also drained and swapped the internal oil to a synthetic 30wt that i can check while the york is mounted on the engine.

Matt.. Don't ask don't tell?

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Belt info Size reference is the width.
22 section belt width 21/32 .656 16.7 mm
17 section belt width .531 13.4 mm
15 section belt width 15/32 or .469 11.91 mm
13 section belt width .406 10.312mm

From what I can tell, Land Cruisers use size 22 for the Alternator, Smog pump, Water pump, power steering pump.
The AC on a Land Cruiser is a size 17 belt. On a late 2f with AC the third pulley on the crank is narrower.

Belt sizing is a bit confusing..
A belt # 22595 is 59.4” long with the size 22 top width. Some go metric on the sizing with a cross reference # for example this belt crosses to a 15AV1500 or 1508mm long.
Not a simple chart to find belts so a bit of hit and miss..

And it started.. Link to Youtube.


I have a high pressure power steering leak at the box. Lots to still do and adjust.
I have new lower radiator hoses on order. Once I confirm which of the 2 fit best I will share. After I filled the radiator with my lower test hose I found the longer one under the pass seat! DOH..
For now I just bypassed/looped the heater lines. Next will be to get her up to temp and retorque.

I did pull the AC compressor to drain and refill the oil. Didn’t want one more thing right now.

 

[Chef]

Fantastic!!!

 

[Curtice]

@tornadoalleycruiser - couple more quick wiring questions, if you don’t mind. I don’t want to take over your thread, but since you offered

My 3FE is out of an FJ80. I think the concepts are basically the same, but the wiring is different. For example, it has 3 fusible links (not 5)...the EFI fuse branches off the alternator charge wire. And some other differences. So three questions:

1) it sounds like you kept the same [approximate] amperage ratings for the fusible links? What if the circuit for a given link doesn’t have the same power requirements in the new truck? So for example, on mine, one of the fusible links supplies power to some things I need (fuel pump, etc), but not a lot of other stuff (eg power windows). If the power requirements change for that circuit, shouldn’t the link (or AMI fuse in your case) be at a different amp rating?
2) On the FJ62, it looks like the EFI fuse and downsteam stuff is all on its own fusible link. As I said, on mine the EFI fuse comes off the alternator wire (~100 amp fusible link). For ease of wire routing, I may want to do this differently. Does the EFI fuse need a fusible link before it? Would be a bad idea to run battery power straight to the 15a fuse?
3) More of a general question probably for anyone to answer, but is there a rule of thumb on when to use a fusible link / safety fuse / circuit breaker, and when you can just run battery power to fuse panel? Or is that always a no no? I’m putting in an aux panel as well, so need to get power to it.

Thanks. If my questions get any deeper, I’ll start a new thread, but thought might be good here as relevant to what you did. I like what you have done and want to do something similar, just want to make sure I do it correctly.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

@Curtice ill get to your questions. Sorry been busy.
Front axle was bent, went and salvaged one from @Chef with @theSherpa help. We were working on chefs truck. Got the housing home, fired up the blaster, and tossed some paint on it. Have 2 diffs with arb's getting checked and solid pinion spacers installed. My windshield glass went with a local guru hot rod guy to get installed. New lift is on the way. The parabolic springs have a bent spring. So they are toast. Ironman was having a sale, so gonna try them out. Itll be easier to swap a bent housing at the same time as the springs and diff. Do it once. Fun drive back from chefs, had a car chase fly past me then suddenly have a change of heart and pull over in front of me on the interstate. Really, mid missouri on the interstate? Where the heck ya gonna go.

 

[Curtice]

Thanks. I have answered some of my own questions I think. Eg, fuses protect wires, not necessarily accessories. But would still like to hear your thoughts as you made decisions just to help me learn.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Fusible links. Rambling and what I did so far. Might be ok, might not. The alt was a separate fusible link. Definitely need that one to protect the large white wire. If the efi was combined then even better, one less link. The headlight fusible link wasn't used on my conversion so I used that wire for an aux fuseblock. Then it has amb1 and amb2, both goto the ignition switch if I recall correctly. I kept those as they were. I also kept efi as it was. Seems dumb as some of those fuses run thru a much smaller fuse later in another panel. I just wanted to clean up the wiring but keep it as stock as possible for schematic purposes. I also removed a lot of electrical but will use that headlight oem feed to the extra fuseblock for stuff like ham radio, etc. Not really an answer to your specific question but I think the fusible links are a last safety resort for a massive short. If I had the 80 series fusible link I would prob use it and get a spare. The 62 fusible link is unobtanium and was too large to pass thru the firewall easily where I was routing things.

 

[Curtice]

Good stuff thanks. I’m thinking of using that same blue sea safety hub you have and running the EFI circuit straight off a 15a fuse from one of the ATC fuse spots on it. Mostly for ease of wire routing. I can’t see a reason why that wouldn’t work.

So my plan in addition to that is run a circuit to the alternator, one to a relay that powers the injectors, etc., and one to the FJ40 ignition and everything after that. I’d tie in the FJ40 always hot circuit before the ignition. I considered swapping ignitions like you did but decided not to.

Anyway, thanks for the guidance and good documentation. Your build is certainly inspiring and helpful to me.