Tools list for front axle service

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Simon and I are putting together our shopping list for the tools required for the front axle service.

Here's some questions I (we) have:

1) I want to get a good floor jack (ie. wheels and long lever). Is a 2 3/4 ton good enough or should I spend more?

2) In the write ups people talk about using a stiff wire brush to clean the birfields. Is that like a standard wire brush OR perhaps a wire brush like a paint brush would be better (never seen one like that). What do you guys use?

3) seal puller - any special size?

4) snap ring pliers - any advice on size or type of end I want on it?

Thanks guys, will probably have more questions later. :-\


Riley
 
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Riley,
1. Get a 3.5 ton from Sears with the quick lift. Don't waste your time or money on the jacks from Harbor Freight. Their 6 ton stands are OK. You want TALL ones, the taller the better.

2. I didn't use a wire brush.

3. Get the T-handle one from Sears. $8 IIRC

4. Here are the snap ring pliars you want for the outer circlip.

Snap_Ring_Pliars_1.jpeg

Snap_Ring_Pliars_2.jpeg


-B-
 
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I've got a cheap generic 3 ton jack that works well, I would recommend a 3 ton or bigger mainly for the height. The ~2 ton car jacks don't go high enough, they may not even reach your frame. The bigger jacks have more lifting height so you can lift it and actually place jackstands underneath, you are using jack stands right? Same goes for jackstands make sure they are strong enough, tall enough and stable.
 

Gumby

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Big brass hammer or drift to pop the cone washers.
Sears 2 1/2 ton with two jack stands for $99
The seal puller must be deep enough and narrow enough to fit way back in the axle bell. Most seal pullers designed for wheel seals will not work.
The hub socket that has been discussed to death in this forum.
Lots of good paper towels, 5lb tub o grease and the CORRECT seal and you're good to go.
 
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1) I got a floor jack at Costco a long time ago. It's 3.5 ton. Sears had a sale on their 3.5 ton jack plus stands for $75 that ended on 9/2 :(.

2) For the birfields, I use shop towels and some cleaner. No brushes. Pack grease with a thin putty knife.

3) T-shaped one at Sears (or HF)

4) I got mine at Sears, but the Checker/Schucks one shown above is very similar. Mine is the same as Todd's.

Get the brass drift set at HF.
 

GXO

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In regard to the drift...remember...do not hit things with steel implements if you can help it (or if you need to bend it).

Be friendly, use brass!
 

cruiserdan

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[quote author=cruiserman link=board=2;threadid=4972;start=msg38228#msg38228 date=1062783782] No brushes. Pack grease with a thin putty knife.


[/quote]

The wife has been "missing" one of her spatulas for some time now ::)

Nice soft edges, no scratchy............ :D
 
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Check the tech section for the link to where to buy the hub socket cheap. :flipoff2:
shoptowels
I found a $0.99 reg seal puller and torched off the one end - works ok now. :flipoff2:
shoptowels
Shop towels for both the work and checking and.................. :flipoff2:
shoptowels
Get the good jack from Sears - $99 or whatever. Cheap jacks suck :flipoff2: and you'll get good use out of. Good tools last a long time.
shoptowels
Get the cheap c clip remover from Sears - NOT the super expensive wingnut jobs. :flipoff2:
shoptowels
shoptowels
shoptowels
shoptowels :flipoff2:
 
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Guys

Don't remember if they are removing the TRE's, if so - BFH & TRE Fork. Get a spring loaded / dial - Fishing Scale - to set preloads, etc.

*if you don't remove the TRE, then you don't need the scale, unless you really want to check the wheel bearings, which can also be done by feel.

Use brakekleen to spary out birfs before repacking.

Most important tool of all #6

Joe
 
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Sorry guys - I didn't post my entire tools list, just the tools that I had questions on. I'm pulling the complete list from the many websites that contain this info.

Thanks for all you help. It's already saved me from buying a too small jack.
 
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[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=4972;start=msg38245#msg38245 date=1062785766]
The wife has been "missing" one of her spatulas for some time now ::)

Nice soft edges, no scratchy............ :D
[/quote]True, but the skinny putty knife is my basic tool for everything, and it resides in my tool bag. Hard to clean up dirt and grease with a spatula :flipoff2:.
 
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And the best piece of advice I can think of? Get two cans of foaming industrial strength degreaser spray. Get under there with a wire brush/screwdriver/narrow scraper and whatever you can think of first to scrape off the thick crud. Do this over a bunch of newspaper and you'll have a pound of scrapings in 15 minutes. THEN spray the degreaser on and drive over to the local car wash. Hose it off. Repeat until you're out of degreaser.

Starting with a minimum of this grundge on the outside pays big dividends. Then you'll have clean bolts and such to work with on the outside of the steering knuckle. Put some PB Blaster on the steering arm bolts now that it can actually get to the bolts to work. I had to do a bit of pounding to loosen mine despite all this. No rust, just big surface area and many years + precision fit of parts.

Reduces the mess down to just dirty grease inside. Did anyone mention shop towels? I simply put 4 rolls of quality paper towels next to me, and a 5 gallon trash bucket next to me. I think I emptied that bucket several times into a larger can before the job was finished. Incredible amounts of grease - really.

IdahoDoug
 
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[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=4972;start=msg38419#msg38419 date=1062817507]
I also recommend some of those "the doctor is IN" exam gloves. Beats the heck out of 30 minutes at the mud-room sink :eek: [/quote]

Didn't think you parts guys used protection when you a "HELPED" a customer :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
 

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