to split rim or not?

[DieselFumes]

So I just received my HJ47 Troopy and the whole split rims are new to me, have been researching on the internet some, what are your thoughts on them?

I like the stock look and also like the 12.50 wide look on Cruisers so I am torn.

I want to keep the stockers but have spoke to a few people that said no local shops will mount them as they are illegal in the US.

Are they the same as beadlocks in a manner?

But I deffinitely need tires.

Thoughts suggestions comments?

 

[Jakes40]

get rid of them

Chris

 

[craptabulous]

i don't see how they can be illegal in the u.s there are still semi trucks running around with them on .

basically all h.d machinery have split rims .

on the other hand if you don't know what your doing they can take your head off. they have to be split or pumped up in a cage a truck shop should be able to work on them for you .

nothing like bead locks , they don't lock the bead .

its probably easiest and safest to get rid of them. personally i wouldn't for any reason other then wanting different rims, but i also work around them or with them every day .

 

[CruisinFJ60]

I havent seen an 18 wheeler run these in a number of years, tho they did at one time here in the states as well as many other vehicles that were on the road.

Id prolly keep em around just case knowone else has em, then again it depends on your plans for the truck.

 

[Seth_O]

Yeah, definitely get rid of them.

I'll tell you what though, since you're kind of in a tight spot - I'll let you ship them to me and I'll dispose of them for you.....

 

[Bill McC]

I'll take them and give you $20 each for them delivered to NH.

 

[JohnnyC]

there is alot of information on MUD about split rims...i have owned mine for over 11 years and love them...there are also several links on doing it your self:

link: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/271609-thoughts-split-rims.html

link: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/199121-255-85-r16-bf-goodrich-mud-split-rims.html

link: Split Rims

link: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/319947-oem-split-rims-repair.html

 

[cruiser_guy]

In the states and Canada I would NOT use them. If you're planning a "round the world" trip then keep them as they might be handy then.

 

[herbs]

Toyota split rims are easy to take apart for puncture repair - much better than tubeless tyres. Plenty of vehicles here in Australia use split rims, even new Landcruisers. You have to make sure you put them back together properly before inflation, but it's not hard.

 

[emr88]

You can do what I did and modify them and in doing so giving you more tire size options...or you can give them to me, I'd like another set

Link to Post here:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/335385-split-my-split-rims.html

 

[MoCoNative]

I'll throw this in the pot. I really want to go to 16" rims for the better tire selection. I would really like to be able to run the old hubcaps, so splits would be cool, because you could add the clips and run the hubcaps.

However, I'm a tight ass. I was looking yesterday, and to find some decent rims will be one cost for me, but also, the additional costs of liners and tubes is probably around $50 per tire. This starts to add up, and makes any cost savings of the 16" tire irrelevant. My thoughts were to go with 16's and 32-33 inch tires and get a better and cheaper tire than a 33" BFG in a stockis width, but for the cost of all the extra headaches with the splits, I don't know if it is worth it. Anyone else have any input on this, or cheap sources for quality liners and tubes.

As for servicing them, why use a shop, when you can do it yourself, that is why you have split rims. As for balance, I'm leaning towards dyna beads in the tube. Dynamically balanced, and you don't have to worry about getting the ring in the wrong spot after a service.

Common sense wise, they are overkill in North America, lots of shops in this great country within a fairly short distance of any place you are going to go. For that matter, I've only ever punctured a handful of tires, most were nails, slow leak, had it fixed after work or whatever and was good years and years on a traditional tubless tire. Ripped a sidewall out once on my 40, split or un-split, that was unrepairable. Only other time, that splits would have come in handy was on my 2001 Dodge work truck. I was 70 miles from anywhere, rugged country. The roads in this area are littered with chert, (the material native americans made arrow heads from,) which is sharp, way sharp. Lost both rear tires while trying to outrun a downpour and possible tornado on very slick clay roads. Both tires sustained internal cord damage from the punctures. I don't think a tube would have been able to fix them, as it would have punctured the tube again. Limped out several miles to the highway on one totally flat and the spare, fun day.

Those are my thoughts, cool rims, but I'm torn too on the praticality of them.

 

[Rix86]

Split rims used to be called widowmakers.....
I've done 6 of them... I'll never do more.
SCARY. when they popped when the ring set.... I almost "popped" my pants.
lol

When I did them, I called around first, to see if someone else would mount them, and was politely told to go to hell.
You have to run tubes, they're heavy, there's no airing down....
I say save em if you really want, but don't run them.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Split rims used to be called widowmakers.....

True... sort of. Widowmakers were split rims. Split rims are not widowmakers. Widowmakers were a different design no longer made (for a few decades now - I could be wrong). Most semi trucks now use Bud wheels (tubeless) but at least around here a lot of aggregate haulers (gravel trucks etc.) use 22,24" split rims. I have repaired more split rim and tubless flats than I'd like to remember. Tubeless is easier and less work but both can be done on the side of the road. Hell, tubeless can be done without removing the tire from the truck if its an outside tire. I'm talking semi tires here but the same goes for car tires. Tubeless car tires are obviously easier with a mounting machine but can be done with two bars and some lube.

So to the OP question - really its personal preference based on your past experience and future expectaions.

Personally I have both the original 16" splits and a set of 15" tubeless with the cap clips. Eventually I plan to use both with one being designated DD and the other offroad.

As for repairing a spilt rim flat... Here is how I do it. I accept no responsiblity for your actions.

1- remove and air down ALL THE WAY TO ZERO PSI

2- lay the tire on the ground ring side up

3- put your weight on the side wall to push it down and gain some space between the bead and the ring. You may have to put something under the wheel to help.

4- use one prybar to push the ring end with a notch (if present) down by sticking the prybar between the ring ends and... prying

5- while holding that one end of the ring down... stick the other prybar in the notch (or between the depressed end of the ring and the wheel if no notch is present) and pry the end of the ring up and over the shoulder and off the wheel - hold that second prybar in place to stop the ring from snapping back down.

6- Now take the first prybar and keep following the ring around and prying it off - pry between the rim and ring - at some point about half way around the ring will become loose.

Thats the easy and safe-ish part. Just keep a hold on the prybars or they will smack you in the shins, face or worse .

7- Slide the rim out of the tire by standing it up and pushing it out - carefull of the tube stem - fold and push it through the rim. Inspect the rim and ring for cracks and nicks - particularly the mating surfaces of the ring and rim locking area. Find cracks and cut the rim in half with a torch - same for the ring. Small nicks can be filed off. Wire brush the mating surfaces and generally clean up the steel parts.

8- Fix the puncture by gluing a patch on the tube AND the inside of the tire. Oh... and remove the offending object. I used to keep them - kind of a trophy. I've pulled nails, screws, sparkplugs, scrap metal, screwdrivers and my favorite...... pennies! out of tires. Yes, pennies. Several times. Usually only half the penny is left.

9- reassemble the tube, liner and tire. Slip the rim back in and lie it down with the ring side up. Set the ring on the rim and using your foot push one end down and under the locking shoulder of the rim. Then with another foot work your way around and snap the ring fully into the locking shoulder.

10- Take a hammer and tap around the inside of the rim lightly to sort of shake and vibrate the assembly to ensure the ring is seated.

11- Use a cage or more likely a chain. Wrap the chain around the tire and rim in two or three places. Make sure it is hooked and closed fairly tight.

12- Add just 5psi to the assembly and get that hammer again. Tap around the inside of the rim again to ensure the ring is seated. Do not proceed until you are happy with the way it looks (i.e. - it won't blow your head off)

13- Air up to the recommended pressure. Don't stand over the tire and read the DOT crap while doing it. Get a clip on extended air filling gauge. You may hear a pop or other noises as the bead seats itself as the pressure builds. The truck tires I worked on go to 100-110psi but that is their designed operating pressure. Remove the chain and get back on the trail.

If after reading the above you don't feel comfortable about it get someone else to do it. Find a buddy that has done it before and watch and learn. Worst case call a heavy equipment or semi tire shop - they still use them and should be able to help you. Your corner Goodyear dealer won't help you.

 

[lostmarbles]

there is alot of information on MUD about split rims...i have owned mine for over 11 years and love them...,,,,https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/319947-oem-split-rims-repair.html

x 2

Except from my point of view, at least 50% of the stuff on MUD concerning splitrims is "misinformation".

IMO they are ideal on stock 40-series cruisers where the owner considers "original appearance" important and where the owner likes to do all work themselves. And when these owners fit them - they reap the benefits of DIY tyre-changing, and they can air-down to lower pressures without risking "blowouts caused by breaking the tyre-bead".

My splitrims have no balancing weights at all - and I experience no steering shimmy even at 110kph. (Regardless of which of my 5 wheels I place on the front too.) So balancing certainly doesn't need to be a problem.

But they are not idiotproof . They can indeed "bite back with lethal consequences" if you fit into that category.

For example excessive rusting must be avoided because it can obviously make them unsafe during assembly. And losing a ring and using a "poor-fit replacement" that you find in a junkyard is just plain stupid.

Of course splits were "standard fitment" on all 40 series cruisers in this part of the world so we tend to be more experienced with them. But even so, ignorance (and unfounded fear) is building here as the familiarity gets restricted to fewer and fewer people.




Warning: We are such a diverse bunch on MUD, that what is "the untimate" for me may indeed be "a curse" for you. So check if you fit into the right "owner category" before choosing to fit them.

 

[Ralph]

I faced the same problem once. I simply weighed the pros and cons. The split rim does give the land cruiser this authentic look, but when it comes to what is more functional I am not with split rims. Split rims need tubed tires, and that translates to a lot of torn valve stems especially when you air down the tire. Changing a tire on a split rim is in no way easier than changing a tire on a regular rim. I mean for God's sakes you need a freakin cage to do that. Personally I went with non-split rims, but to each his own I guess.

 

[DieselFumes]

Wow, thanks for all the info guys!

I love the look of them and am a PURIST when it comes to cruisers. This is my 1st 40 series that I have owned although some have been in the family and I have had later "electronic" models. I love this Troopy!

So let me get it 100% right, these tires have tubes in them and that is the only way a split rim will run?

What are my tire choices if I need to replace them?

I will be contacting a local heavy equip place for assistance unless there are any MUD members with experience in the panhandle of Florida- Fort Walton Beach Area that would help out in showing me how to do this as I am apt to learn but not willing to try this 1st by myself...

I am not looking to take the troopy wheeling very much and am more focusing on restoration to original specs. Other than adding a little wider and little taller tire if possible. I am also interested in what some mentioned as the hub caps that can be placed on these???

Will post up some pics soon.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

AFAIK you can run tubes in a tubeless tire on a split rim.

 

[DieselFumes]

Pics of the Troopy after its first USA bath.

 

[DieselFumes]

This is the exact tire look I am going for if it will work: found on MUD, sorry for hijacking the pic, but it is a sweet truck:

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Definitely keep the split rims. That rig is nice and straight/ unmolested. Leave it stock - just my opinion.