255/85 R16 BF Goodrich Mud/split rims

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Joined
Mar 2, 2007
Threads
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Location
Haaksbergen, the Netherlands
Good evening!

I am driving a LC BJ42 and I have bought some BF Goodrich Tires.
Their size is 255/85 R16 and in the beginning I wanted to put them on my original LC split rims.

But I cannot find any tubes for the BF tire size, because what you all probably now is that you need tubes when you want to drive with split rims...

Does someone now a address for tubes? Or are there some 16 inch rims from other landcruisers that fits on a Landcruiser BJ42!!?

On those BF Tires stands that they are tubeless! Is that not a problem when you gonna use a tube with those kind of tires!?

Thanks in advance!!
Bas
 
i have been running splits for over 10 years...love them...and easy to do...after you do it once or twice

Split Rims <<<link split rim ring removal

the hardest part is breaking the tire off the bead I use these Tyrepliers: http://www.eco4wd.com/products/produ...TyrePliers.pdf

make sure the tubes have tr150 valves (see here: http://www.transamericanrubber.com/i...es/valves4.gif )..theybend nicely and are not too long not too short, the valve on the tube needs to be "off center" not "on center" as i remember my tubes were 750r16's

MAKE SURE YOU USE RADIAL TUBES AND FLAPS WITH RADIAL TIRES AND BIAS TUBES AND FLAPS WITH BIAS TIRES
 
Everything Johhny C said. I also ran them for about 10 years. I only had one problem running tubes in a tubless tire. One tire I had was built with ridges inside the casing that would be of no consequence going tubeless, but eventually chafed through the tube, causing rapid loss of air... Next trip to the wrecking yard I found a decent one without the ridges. Never had a matched set in those days, but with changing them at home for free, any tire found is worth mounting. I live real close to British Columbia, so on a good day I'd return from the hunt with split rims with usable tires on them, AND and occasional full floater. Go for it. And 255's are a really cool size. please post a photo when you have them mounted, I'd love to see that combination..
 
I only had one problem running tubes in a tubless tire. One tire I had was built with ridges inside the casing that would be of no consequence going tubeless, but eventually chafed through the tube, causing rapid loss of air...
i had a problem with some chafing on the tube with radial tubeless tire ...when i had my tire go down...i carefully looked over the whole tube found all the chafed areas and put a patch on top...doubled up the area i quess you can say...never a problem again...the tire i was haveing chafing problems has been going strong now for 5 years.
 
and we haven't even started on how cool they LOOK.
 
That is a great tire size rim combo; wish we could have someone mount split rims here in Alabama:bang:

Lou
 
Johnny, had a set of 16 split rims and had to send them back to cruiserparts:frown:; this state is a liability nightmare and could not get anyone to touch or balance them much less mount them...... because of the liability issue...............the story is that several years ago a fellow was decapitated in this county when a rim separated under pressure; he was not using a "cage".......... a jury awarded several mil. to the family and since then the insurance carriers in this state have stopped insuring anyone who mounts a split rim even when a "cage" is used!:bang:

Lou
 
Great set up.. easy to work on. Here are some pics and how to..


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I have them on my 45LPB. Love them. I got a flat the other day and had it fixed in 30 minutes. You need to carry a set of tools to change the split rim.

Tools

Big Hammer
Spoon Bar
Claw Bar
Patch Kit (vulcanizing fluid and rubber patches)
Extra tubes
soapy water in a small spray can.

Steps
1. Remove wheel from vehicle

2. Remove any access air from tire (important)

3. Mark where the valve stem is on the tire for reference. Take a good look at how the ring looks seated against the wheel. It needs to look the same when you put it back on.

4. With tire removed and fully deflated find an indent on the ring where it meets the wheel. Stick your claw bar in the indent and hammer it a bit so it digs in. Use the wheel as leverage and pry the ring up and away from the tire/wheel.

5. Take your spoon bar and stick it in the gap between the ring and the wheel. Tap the spoon bar with the hammer and walk it around. The ring will seperate from the wheel.

6.Take the tire stem and push it through the wheel so it doesn't snag when you seperate the tire.

7.Pick up the tire and wheel and hold it at a 45 degree angle. Gently tap the wheel on the ring side. This will push the wheel through the tire. May take a bit if its rusty etc. You can use water or any type of lube to help it along.

8. Remove tire flap (a protective rubber ring the sits between the wheel and tube) If its there. Sometimes it isn't.

9. Remove tube air it up and spray soapy water on it. Find the leak. Patch using the scraper and vulcanizing fluid.

10. Now find the place where the tube was patched and use the valve stem mark as reference. Look inside the tire and find what caused the flat if you can. It may still be stuck or it was just a puncture.


11. Once everything is fixed remove the air from the tube and place in the tire noting the mark you made for the valve stem. Place tire flap in next. Make sure the valve stem is fully through the tire flap.

12. Place tire over wheel. Line up the stem and the slot where it goes through the wheel. While placinng tire over the wheel pull valve stem through slot. Now place rest of tire over the wheel a work its way down until flush.

13. IMPORTANT BEFORE PLACING THE RING BACK ON THE WHEEL MAKE SURE THERE IS NOTHING IN THE GROOVE OF THE WHEEL WHERE THE RING LOCKS. USE A SCREW DRIVER OR BRUSH TO CLEAN THE GROOVE. VERIFY THAT THERE IS NO DAMAGE (BURS, HAMMER BENDS, ETC). THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. IF THERE IS DAMAGE TO THE GROOVE STOP NOW.

14.Now place the ring on the wheel. For reference start putting the ring on 180 degrees from where the valve stem is. Basically opposite side of the wheel. You want the split part of the ring opposite the valve stem. Force one side of the ring down into the groove once it catches start tapping the ring around the wheel until you have gone all the way around.

15.IMPORTANT VERIFY THAT THE RING IS IN THE GROOVE ALL THE WAY AROUND TAP ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE RING TO MAKE SURE ITS SEATED.

16. Time to air it back up. This is where people get hurt if you haven't done it right. Tire shops use tire cages to air up split rings. You can do several things while airing it up. Wrap heavy chain around the wheel like a figured 8 making sure both sides are wrapped. You could also place it under your vehicle while airing up. Worst case when airing it up aim it away from you.

17. Put about 5-10 pounds of pressure and verify the ring is holding. Then air up the rest of the way.

It sounds like a lot, but it isn't just use comomon sense.

Links

Reviewer's Notebook: Extreme Outback Tire Tools - Isuzu/Honda at Off-Road.com

BC4x4.COM four wheel drive, 4x4, offroad and fourwheeling site.

Patching Tubes

Bull OUT!
 
hey guys just so you know the wheels shown are not actual split rims. the ones shown are just two piece wheels the outside is a lock ring . i worked in a tire shop for a number of years did dis-mount and mount quite a few they are harder to break down since they tend to rust together, using a cage on a multi piece wheel doesn,t make sense either when inflating they are flat on the ground when there is enough pressure to seat the ring a few cracks with the hammer and visual inspection and normally they are good to go.. in the years i was there i never actually saw a true split rim ......and we were told that we could dis mount them but not mount they are wickedly dangerous....and multi piece wheels don't usually balance worth a damn....:beer:
 
hey guys just so you know the wheels shown are not actual split rims. the ones shown are just two piece wheels the outside is a lock ring . i worked in a tire shop for a number of years did dis-mount and mount quite a few they are harder to break down since they tend to rust together, using a cage on a multi piece wheel doesn,t make sense either when inflating they are flat on the ground when there is enough pressure to seat the ring a few cracks with the hammer and visual inspection and normally they are good to go.. in the years i was there i never actually saw a true split rim ......and we were told that we could dis mount them but not mount they are wickedly dangerous....and multi piece wheels don't usually balance worth a damn....:beer:

The two piece you are referring to are called widowmakers here in the states. They have been discontinued for a long time. Also called split wheel

The ones in the photos above are reffered as split rims and or lock rings.
 
Toyota's design for a 2 pc. wheel is a vast improvement over most of the domestic type I've worked on. The ring, being sort of 'L' shaped is kept from expanding out of the groove by the tire's bead. First time I demounted one, I was very impressed by the relatively safe and ingenious design. Bull, you should teach auto shop. Great tutorial!
 
like step #16 says...wrap a chain around the tire...i use a chain with a grab hook at one end that you link the chain together.

These Split rims are not like the split rims that you see on 18 wheelers and sutch....these are split 'ring' rims...i feel VERY safe...just take precautions...like anything else we do.

when i had 1st got my rims and tires i had a problem with one ...brought it to a Commertial Truck Tire Center and they did it for $10...and the guy was pushing on the ring to seat the ring with his foot as would anybody else...like step #14 says to push/tap the ring down...i was using a rubber mallet....but the heal of your boot works great.
 
Bull and Johnny C...great write up:clap:..........took my split rims to 5 commercial truck tire wheel places here in the state of Alabama and could not get anyone to touch them....that included balancing after I had the tires installed elsewhere:hhmm:..........every state has its own set of headaches you have to learn to live with and after a jury awarded several million after the split rim accident here............the insurance rates got prohibitive so no comercial outfit will work on one............that includes Toyotas lovely design or the obsolete ones on older US vehicles; wish I could run them here:frown:


Lou
 
Good God, Bull...

...That's one awesome 45!

Are those things everywhere in Canada and WA, and nowhere else? I don't even see any rust-buckets for sale here in the east.
 
i have been reading up on split rim posts

im about to pick up a set

i will be running BFG 255/85/16

What all will i need , what type of tube, valve stems and where do i get them at.

thanks Ryan
 
Bull and Johnny C...great write up:clap:..........took my split rims to 5 commercial truck tire wheel places here in the state of Alabama and could not get anyone to touch them....that included balancing after I had the tires installed elsewhere:hhmm:..........every state has its own set of headaches you have to learn to live with and after a jury awarded several million after the split rim accident here............the insurance rates got prohibitive so no comercial outfit will work on one............that includes Toyotas lovely design or the obsolete ones on older US vehicles; wish I could run them here:frown:


Lou

I asked the fella's at Schwabs here in Oregon if they would do the split rims and they said it wasn't a problem at, they do quite a few and that they were very safe. The older 'widowmaker' split wheels are the dangerous ones to stay away from - they don't touch those.
 
i have been reading up on split rim posts

im about to pick up a set

i will be running BFG 255/85/16

What all will i need , what type of tube, valve stems and where do i get them at.

thanks Ryan
 

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