Timing Issues SOLVED - 3FE Break-In Procedure Confirmation and Questions (1 Viewer)

4Cruisers

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Searched MUD, other Toyota forums, and the Internet (including Summit Racing and EricTheCarGuy) to make sure I have my specific procedure correctly lined out before firing up the rebuilt engine (including new camshaft). I've recently received a few good tips on the forum, and ran across some good information on the 80-Series forum from @69rambler:

Proper 3F-E break-in procedures

Here's the status of the vehicle's systems:
  • Engine filled with ~8 quarts of conventional break-in oil supplied by the machine shop that rebuilt the engine, new oil filter installed, lower end primed with oil using a drill and homemade attachment made from an old screwdriver blade (this was done about 3 weeks ago), and oil generously dripped over the rocker arm assembly.
  • Refreshed radiator installed and coolant system topped off (still need to burp it during break-in) - tightened several OEM hose clamps to fix small leaks, will check again for leaks during break-in.
  • A/C system converted to R134a with PAG 46 oil added to Toyota retrofit receiver/dryer and compressor, per Toyota's retrofit Technical Service Bulletin, and system pumped down to 21+ in Hg (good for 7,2400-foot elevation).
  • Power steering pump filled with ATF, will top off during break-in.
  • Clutch system filled with brake fluid, system bled, and clutch pedal adjusted.
  • New H55f and transfer case filled with appropriate gear oil.
  • Front and rear axles filled with appropriate gear oil.
  • Front knuckles rebuilt and front wheel bearings replaced and repacked.
  • Brake system installed with new wheel cylinders and brake shoes on the rear axle and remanufactured calipers and new pads on the front axle.
  • Distributor/rotor/cap, coil/igniter, plugs/wires installed.
  • Fuel system reinstalled with new fuel pump, filter, pulsation damper, pressure regulator, and refurbished injectors.
Things I know I need to do/should do before starting:
  • Fabricate and install 2-inch spacer for the load sensing proportioning valve (added OME suspension lift), add brake fluid to master cylinder, and bleed brake system.
  • Connect parking brake cables at rear backing plates.
  • Install front and rear driveshafts.
  • Reconnect speedometer cable at transfer case.
  • Add fuel to fuel tank.
Questions:
  • The exhaust system is not completed. I plan on having a custom section fabricated from the exhaust manifolds to the single FJ60 catalytic converter, along with the two oxygen sensors upstream from the Y-pipe, one for each bank of three cylinders. So the oxygen sensors are not yet installed. I wanted to have the FJ60 drivable before taking it to the exhaust shop so they could move it around as needed, but it seems like I'd want to have the 3FE broken in before turning the FJ60 over to them. Are the oxygen sensors critical during the break-in period? If so, I can temporarily reinstall the front pipes with oxygen sensors and catalytic converters for break-in - that's what I'm leaning towards.
  • I've read in a couple of places that I could prime the lower end some more by removing the spark plugs and turning over the engine with the starter several times. Is this necessary since I already primed it with a drill? Wouldn't that defeat the intent of the cam break-in, or does it matter?
  • If I need to run the engine at 1,800 to 2,400 rpm initially for ~30 minutes for the cam break-in, wouldn't that be bad if I haven't verified oil delivery to the top end first? Or would the oil I drip over the rocker arm assembly, etc. beforehand keep things lubricated for that long? Or could I run it for a few minutes at those rpms then remove the valve cover to verify oil delivery, followed by the remaining 30 minutes?
Just want to make sure I don't mess things up.
 
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You're too worried about it. Just fire the damn thing up and check for leaks. Shut it down after a minute or two, look over all the little things like belt tension etc, check fluid levels, then go for a drive to the exhaust shop. The exhaust shop isn't going to drive it more than they need to to get the job done.
 
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I wouldn’t skip the 20-30 min of sustained rpm. I did on my IHC 392 15+ years ago, and recently had to replace a lifter that had rounded out. I don’t want to imagine what the cam lobe looks like. It still runs strong, in the true tractor fashion though.
You might be able to peek at the rocker arm assembly through the oil fill hole in the valve cover with a light and a mirror...to make you feel better about top end oiling.
Be brave!
 

4Cruisers

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You might be able to peek at the rocker arm assembly through the oil fill hole in the valve cover with a light and a mirror...to make you feel better about top end oiling.
Be brave!
I'll give it a try in a few minutes, would definitely be easier than removing a bunch of parts to get the valve cover off.
 

RockDoc

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When I got my 2FE together I broke in the cam for 20 min as per regrinders instructions (while poking around under the hood to check for leaks and watching gauges), then drove the $#1t out of it to seal the rings. :meh: This was after priming oil with drill and with down pipes and O2 sensors, no exhaust behind.

Edit: Jim raises good points about retorquing head bolts and adjusting valves. IIRC, after breaking in my cam and taking a 5 minute spin (first heat cycle), I retorqed the head bolts, adjusted valve lash and adjusted timing a bit retarded (to avoid spark knock without being able to hear it over open exhaust) before taking it for a good drive.
 
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FJ40Jim

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It would suck to wash the rings out of a brand new engine because the O2 sensors were not installed & driving the mixture full rich.

FWIW, the correct thing to do is have engine & vehicle ready to run. That means a complete exhaust system (so bad engine noises are audible) and O2 sensors installed and complete air intake with filter and roadworthy chassis.

Prime the oil pump, stab the dissy and fire it up. Break in cam for 20mins, retork HG & adjust valves. Then drive at varying speed & load for an hour.

Ultimately it's your project, do whatever you're comfortable with.
 
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down in a hole.
It’s been recently stated somewhere here that tdc#6 compression is where the cam lines up if you want to watch oil upstairs before the big show...I agree about o2 sensors being needed.
 

cruisermatt

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It would suck to wash the rings out of a brand new engine because the O2 sensors were not installed & driving the mixture full rich.

FWIW, the correct thing to do is have engine & vehicle ready to run. That means a complete exhaust system (so bad engine noises are audible) and O2 sensors installed and complete air intake with filter and roadworthy chassis.

Prime the oil pump, stab the dissy and fire it up. Break in cam for 20mins, retork HG & adjust valves. Then drive at varying speed & load for an hour.

Ultimately it's your project, do whatever you're comfortable with.

What did Toyota do with new motors right off the assembly line? Serious question.
 
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Probably not much. I can't speak to Toyota Japan in the 80's but I've been in a lot of assembly plants. When there's a car coming off the line every 58 seconds or whatever there's no screwing around. The cars have to be driven off the end and out to the yard to await shipment.

They's don't exactly redline them but they don't baby them either. Sure the floor is glossy industrial paint but there's something between tire chirp and squeal with every car. When you buy a new car with 1.3 miles on it let's just say that's been a hard 1.3 miles.
 

FJ40Jim

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Some factories (used to) test run engines before dropping them in chassis. But they were test run on a complete stand with an exhaust system and air cleaner. Because modern electronically controlled engines and trannies just work right, normal production vehicles (not McLaren or Failrari) are started up, driven off the end of the line, flogged around a test course to verify brakes, steering, shifting, etc. and sent to the transporter.
 
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The break in oil should have zinc to protect the cam and lifters, after break in I use the VR1 racing oil with zinc. Curious what others think about the lack of zinc in new oils for these engines.
 

4Cruisers

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The break in oil should have zinc to protect the cam and lifters, after break in I use the VR1 racing oil with zinc. Curious what others think about the lack of zinc in new oils for these engines.
The machine shop provided me with 9 quarts of break-in oil with zinc, plus a couple of small bottles of zinc additive for the first oil change. I'll be down in Albuquerque later this morning and will stop by and freshen my memory on their break-in recommendations.
 

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UPDATE:

I'm hoping today is THE DAY. This morning I'll finish putting the dash back together so I have the gauges, and install the door cards. The vehicle will pretty much be complete. All that's missing is the carpet (I'll throw in the old floor mats for now), the skid plate (that's another story), and the mud flaps (I should have them reconditioned later this weekend). Then there are the things I can't/won't do until the engine is running - burp the coolant system, top off the engine oil (new filter), top off the ATF in the power steering system, and charge the A/C system with R134a (already pumped down and checked for leaks).

Before I start I'll brush up on the head bolt re-torque values and sequence, and the valve adjustment procedure.

If all goes well I'll get some insurance first thing Monday morning and take it to the local MVD office to register it and get my license plate:

Plate.png


My goal is to have the FJ60 ready to take (tow dolly) to Pig Party 2018 at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon later on Monday.
 
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Yeah!!!! It’s fun but nerve wracking firing it up for the first time after the build. I’d get your burping tools ready and start adding fluid while you run it the first 20 min break in step. It’ll give you something to do instead of pacing... it was the longest 20 minutes for me!
 

John McVicker

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Good luck, I just did this start up with my 2f 10 days ago, sounds like you have your bases covered. I don't know if you have the time to borrow one but I used a pressure tester for the radiator. Found one leak that I was glad to have found then instead of while the engine was 1st being run.

I don't buy into the 'just turn the key and run it', makes no sense. You've got a bunch of time and $$ involved. You've done the preliminaries...good luck& report back.
 

4Cruisers

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Yeah!!!! It’s fun but nerve wracking firing it up for the first time after the build. I’d get your burping tools ready and start adding fluid while you run it the first 20 min break in step. It’ll give you something to do instead of pacing... it was the longest 20 minutes for me!
What burping tools? Any suggestions? I haven't done this for quite a while, a memory refresh would be helpful.
 

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