Yes yes, I know....I'm an amateur!!! I've searched, but I can't find this either. Can someone please list step by step the break-in procedure for my freshly rebuilt 3F-E...or give a link that will guide me through this? Thank you greatly in advance!
Proper 3F-E break-in procedures (1 Viewer)
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Nothing?
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I know to start it, run around 2000RPM for 20-30 minutes, let idle while setting timing, then drive it for roughly 30 minutes, change to high quality oil....and be in my way. Any other suggestions?
new or used cam? new or used pistons?
Start engine. Check oil pressure. Check for funny noises. Check for fluid leaks. Warm up a bit, then go drive it like you stole it.
Start engine. Check oil pressure. Check for funny noises. Check for fluid leaks. Warm up a bit, then go drive it like you stole it.
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COMPLETE rebuild!!!!
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All new parts except for block, head and oil pan
Just go for a drive ha, nothing really infact the 3fe will still be breaking in for another 100k lmao
Honestly I think the break in period is a myth, sure don't be redlining the thing but the rings will seat quite quickly.
Very important step is to pre-prime the oil pump. Whoever assembled your motor used assembly lube, but that will quickly breakdown once the motor is at running rpm. Remove distributor and all spark plugs. Attach an old distributor shaft with the housing (the cam gear must be removed) or a store bought primer to an electric drill and spin in a clockwise direction for a few minutes. Check oil pressure gauge to be sure all is working good. Turn engine over a 1/4 of a turn, and spin oil pump again for a minute or two. Continue this until the engine has gone 2 full revolutions then, reinstall the distributor and set the #1 at TDC. It's also a good idea to remove the valve cover to ensure that oil is circulating thru the valve train.
The very worst thing you can do is to let it idle. the first 5 mins after initial startup are crucial...and can make it or break it for your cam longevity! No need to red-line it, but 2000+ rpm for 15 mins to seat the rings at a minimum. Get it up to operating temp and hold it there.
Make sure your gauges are working and watch your temp and oil pressure...helps to have a helper lookin for leaks or being the pedal guy. After about 20 mins you should be good to let her idle and make sure everything is good to go.
Take her for a spin if you can, be easy on the skinny pedal for the first 500 miles. Change the oil at 500 no question! When you've got 2000 miles on her, change oil again and treat her well, and she'll run another 350k for ya!
Hope that helps.
The very worst thing you can do is to let it idle. the first 5 mins after initial startup are crucial...and can make it or break it for your cam longevity! No need to red-line it, but 2000+ rpm for 15 mins to seat the rings at a minimum. Get it up to operating temp and hold it there.
Make sure your gauges are working and watch your temp and oil pressure...helps to have a helper lookin for leaks or being the pedal guy. After about 20 mins you should be good to let her idle and make sure everything is good to go.
Take her for a spin if you can, be easy on the skinny pedal for the first 500 miles. Change the oil at 500 no question! When you've got 2000 miles on her, change oil again and treat her well, and she'll run another 350k for ya!
Hope that helps.
ColoCruiserJeff said:
The very worst thing you can do is be easy on it, you want it to be constantly under load whether or not under accel or decel, give it some gas!!! Lol don't rev the piss out of it, this process is to make sure the rings get seated and seal properly.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Although for work hardening the cam and lifters, many recommend a 20-30 minute unloaded first run at 1500-2000 RPM. You'll want a high ZDDP oil for that, or regular oil and a tube of cam lube. Contact Mark W. He had specific instructions for that here at one time.
If I were lucky enough to have a completely new motor, I'd probably do it, then change the oil and reset the valves, then drive normally after that-gently at first, and then some 3rd gear hard accellerations after 500 miles or so.
I'd use conventional oil too, not because the rings won't seat with synthetic, but because you'll be changing it a lot. 20 minutes, 500 miles, 2000 miles. Something like that. I agree with Jeff above. Prime, run-in, drive.
If I were lucky enough to have a completely new motor, I'd probably do it, then change the oil and reset the valves, then drive normally after that-gently at first, and then some 3rd gear hard accellerations after 500 miles or so.
I'd use conventional oil too, not because the rings won't seat with synthetic, but because you'll be changing it a lot. 20 minutes, 500 miles, 2000 miles. Something like that. I agree with Jeff above. Prime, run-in, drive.
You have three goals- Break in the cam, seat the rings and get the assembly lube/break in junk out of the engine.
Rings on a fresh cast iron bore will seat pretty easily if the bores are finished properly. Rings are designed to handle the engine's maximum cylinder pressure at an appropriate duty cycle for the engine's service life. They need high cylinder pressure to force the rings into the walls and wear in. Idle time is very bad for rings as well as the cam as at idle there isn't as much oil flinging around in there and cylinder pressure is very low.
Background- I've assembled and broke in a dozen or so gas engines and 60+ pickup and medium duty diesel engines. I've had excellent results from my technique. All the engines I've ever put into service with conservative piston-bore clearance (non competition engines) have had clear oil come out at the engines 3rd oil change (that would be at 4000- 5000 miles).
Install a good oil filter, not some Fram POS. Use mid grade non synthetic oil with zinc additive. If you change lifters or cam break in the cam by immediately taking the engine to 1500+ RPM, verify no leaks and timing is OK then vary between 1500-3500 for most engines, race engines don't really matter as long as you keep the R's up there. Do this for 15-20 minutes. As soon as you shut it down dump the oil. This oil has all the nasty crud in it. Fill oil, change filter, check fluid levels/adjustments, take it for a drive. Drive straight to the biggest, longest hill you have in your area (hopefully this is a few miles long). Hit the bottom of the hill as slow as you can or from a stop and accelerate up that hill at a power level about 30-40% of full power Stay below the top 25% of the rev limit. Go back around to the bottom of that hill. Do the same thing but give it about 60% throttle. Go back again and do it at full throttle. When you hit 4000 RPM or so (for an engine like this) in high gear you slow down and accelerate again.
Drive it however you want (lean towards NOT taking it easy on it) for another 1000-2000 miles. Watch the oil level as it will use some oil during this time. You will notice the oil usage decreasing. Change the oil after this period and watch the oil color/level. If the oil stays clean and the level holds then switch to synthetic in 3000 miles.
If you do this and you have oil usage/dirty oil you got crappy cylinder machinework or low quality rings. You can try putting under lots of repeated heavy loading.
From the factory engines are run in under load. "rebuilt" engines are not usually so you have to do this part right.
Rings on a fresh cast iron bore will seat pretty easily if the bores are finished properly. Rings are designed to handle the engine's maximum cylinder pressure at an appropriate duty cycle for the engine's service life. They need high cylinder pressure to force the rings into the walls and wear in. Idle time is very bad for rings as well as the cam as at idle there isn't as much oil flinging around in there and cylinder pressure is very low.
Background- I've assembled and broke in a dozen or so gas engines and 60+ pickup and medium duty diesel engines. I've had excellent results from my technique. All the engines I've ever put into service with conservative piston-bore clearance (non competition engines) have had clear oil come out at the engines 3rd oil change (that would be at 4000- 5000 miles).
Install a good oil filter, not some Fram POS. Use mid grade non synthetic oil with zinc additive. If you change lifters or cam break in the cam by immediately taking the engine to 1500+ RPM, verify no leaks and timing is OK then vary between 1500-3500 for most engines, race engines don't really matter as long as you keep the R's up there. Do this for 15-20 minutes. As soon as you shut it down dump the oil. This oil has all the nasty crud in it. Fill oil, change filter, check fluid levels/adjustments, take it for a drive. Drive straight to the biggest, longest hill you have in your area (hopefully this is a few miles long). Hit the bottom of the hill as slow as you can or from a stop and accelerate up that hill at a power level about 30-40% of full power Stay below the top 25% of the rev limit. Go back around to the bottom of that hill. Do the same thing but give it about 60% throttle. Go back again and do it at full throttle. When you hit 4000 RPM or so (for an engine like this) in high gear you slow down and accelerate again.
Drive it however you want (lean towards NOT taking it easy on it) for another 1000-2000 miles. Watch the oil level as it will use some oil during this time. You will notice the oil usage decreasing. Change the oil after this period and watch the oil color/level. If the oil stays clean and the level holds then switch to synthetic in 3000 miles.
If you do this and you have oil usage/dirty oil you got crappy cylinder machinework or low quality rings. You can try putting under lots of repeated heavy loading.
From the factory engines are run in under load. "rebuilt" engines are not usually so you have to do this part right.
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- #15
Best (and most clear) answer yet! Thank you greatly!!! I'll do my best to meet the requirements you suggest, but not sure I'll be able to justify each hill climb to the local police, lol. But understand tgat I need to "drive it like I stole it" for the first couple thousand miles... Thank you again!!
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- #16
So I understand this correctly, I change the oil after just the first period of rev, and before the first drive? I'm using Roysl Purple break-in oil with K&N filter for break-in, then have Royal Purple 10w-40 and K&N oil filter for first change.....just want to make sure I get it right since ghe oils are a bit pricey. My timing "should bd right between 0* and 7* on first start (which should be good, but then I can quickly get timing set to suggested 12* after first rev period.
First drive will be through the country side so as not to let idle af too many stop lights and better hills....god my fingers, toes, eyes, and whatever else are crossed on this one, lol. Thanks again!!!!!!
First drive will be through the country side so as not to let idle af too many stop lights and better hills....god my fingers, toes, eyes, and whatever else are crossed on this one, lol. Thanks again!!!!!!
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- #17
Sorry, just to clarify, I was told by the guy who rebuilt me engine (Avery rebuitae race car engine builder) that I should rev for 20-30 minutes at about 1800-2000 RPMs, bring to idle and set timing as quickly as possible while checking for leaks, immediately drive (fairly hard) for 20-30 minutes, THEN change the oil from the break-in stuff to the normal Royal Purple.....would this still be recommended?
69rambler said:
^^^yes
Can break in is important. Work harden as instructed with the high rpms for the specified time period.
For ring seating go drive it like you stole it. Lots of full throttle, but set your max rpms lower than factory redline. Big mountains are your friend here. When oil consumption drops to normal rates your ring seating is complete. Don't use synth oils at least for one more oil change interval after that.
Enjoy the new engine!
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- #20
Just out of curiosity, what would "normal oil consumption be?
