Timing Issues SOLVED - 3FE Break-In Procedure Confirmation and Questions (1 Viewer)

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Not sure that link works so here’s a picture. Don’t let this stop you though!!! Break that baby in!!

58C3F5F6-605D-48A9-81AD-B3E904A87B92.jpeg
 

4Cruisers

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Not sure that link works so here’s a picture. Don’t let this stop you though!!! Break that baby in!!

View attachment 1724247
Thanks! I'll take a look.

More progress - all that's left to install the dash is the glove compartment, stereo (Panasonic radio/CD/cassette), A/C controls surround, and the instrument cluster. Should take me another 30 minutes or so.
 

4Cruisers

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Not sure that link works so here’s a picture. Don’t let this stop you though!!! Break that baby in!!

View attachment 1724247
I was able to pick one up at the new O'Reilly store in town, along with a package of air fresheners and a couple of bottles of windshield washer fluid. I'll put the funnel to good use, looks like tomorrow for the start of break-in.

Avoided a major disaster by discovering a minor disaster when I got back from the store. I stopped at the Shell station on the way home to fill a couple of gas cans so I could have enough fuel in the FJ60 for the break-in. When I went into the garage it smelled like gasoline big time. I had already added a couple of gallons to the empty tank before I went to the store. It turns out the two fittings on the fuel supply line right after the tank hadn't been tightened after the install, and it was dripping steadily onto the spare FJ60 windshield I had stored under the vehicle, wrapped in a furniture moving blanket. After tightening the fittings, out went the blanket and the smell is almost gone already.

Meanwhile, I finished the dash install and everything works, except the new indicator light for low range. The problem is in the switch on the transfer case, I'll look into it later. And most important, I was able to listen to some CDs while I worked on the interior - Ten Years After "A Space in Time", The Moody Blues "Days of Future Passed", and Jethro Tull "Aqualung" :).

I'm getting closer - I filled the windshield washer reservoirs, started putting in my old floor mats (no carpet yet), hooked up the charger to the battery, and will mount the spare tire underneath, once the rain stops.

If all goes well with the initial break in, it'll take a trip on Monday (tow dolly) to Pig Party 2018.
 

4Cruisers

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You’ve done a ton of work! I can’t wait to here how it goes tomorrow.
Sure seems like a lot of work. Tonight I'll look at the FSM about head bolt torque and my notes from my recent '84 FJ60 warm valve adjustment, and get my tools together, including my large Craftsman torque wrench and the "vintage" Snap-On valve adjusting tool I bought on eBay last year.
 

4Cruisers

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Quick question - I removed the valve cover after looking at the FSM section on torquing the cylinder head bolts. Without removing A LOT of stuff, including the hard fuel line to the fuel rail, the air plenum, etc. you can't access several of the bolts with a torque wrench. How important is it to retorque the head bolts after this inintial cam lobe break-in and piston ring seating? Can I just do a warm valve adjustment when I'm done and call it good for now? I could check the torque values on the bolts I can access, but I wouldn't want to tighten any without doing them all at once per the FSM sequence. I can always go back in later and retorque the bolts when I have a lot more time available.
 
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I’ll let someone else with more experience answer your question, I think I retorqued at 500 miles and then a couple more times after that just to be sure. What does the FSM say to do? Then the mud crew?
 

Dynosoar

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You can retorque using a crows foot, and not have to pull the rocker towers. You just have to adjust the torque wrench setting as the geometry of offset of the crows foot changes things up. I don't remember the numbers, but I am sure google could help.
Dyno


Edit: I found the formula in my notebook :)

Here is the formula: M1 = M2 x (L1 / L2)

Where:

M1 is the torque setting of the wrench.

M2 is the actual torque applied to the nut

L1 is the normal length of the wrench

L2 is the extended length of the wrench (Length of wrench + length of adapter)

Example:
M1=torque wrench setting ?
M2=100 FT-LBS (Desired torque)
L1=18" (Length of torque wrench)
L2=20" (Total length of wrench with 2 inch extension added to wrench)(e.g. crows foot)
100 x (18/20) = 90
M1 therefore = 90; In other words if you want to torque a fastener to 100 FT-LBS using an 18 inch torque wrench with a 2 inch torque extender you will set the wrench to 90 FT-LBS
 
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4Cruisers

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Thanks, guys. There's still time this afternoon/evening to try and fire it up.
 

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It's all buttoned up and ready to go, but it's 9:00 p.m. now and the neighbor's bedroom window is about 50 feet from the exhaust pipe (they retire early), so I think I'll hold off until first thing in the morning. But I don't think it would hurt to just try to start it tonight and let it run for a few minutes, then do the 20 minutes @1,800 to 2,400 rpm cam lobe break in at first light? Any thoughts?
 

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Personally, I'd wait. Me at least would not have the self control to not complete the full 20 min break in once it's started. Tomorrow you will be at full strength and be able to give it your full attention in case of any minor issues.

Either way, good luck. We will be watching.
We decided to wait until my wife and I are fresh. Because the neighbors go to bed early, that means they wake up early :). If all goes well I'll head to town to stop by State Farm for an insurance binder, then take the FJ60 over to get it registered and get a license plate. Then more break-in and check-out. I may still have to adjust the brakes before taking it out on the street.
 

John McVicker

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Good luck. I've now got about 700 miles on my rebuilt 2f...nervous time for sure. Took it wheeling for the 1st time yesterday...Coyote Flats (we got up to 10k so it was a good test) here in the Sierra's. All went well, I know you'll feel much more at ease once you get the 1st couple of days under your belt.

Again, good luck & we'll see you@ SAS.
 

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OK, so this morning my wife fired it up while I checked things out uner the hood. It took quite a while to get the fuel into the engine, but it finally caught. It would barely run until all of a sudden - pow! A big chunk of carpet jute was shot out the tail pipe and into the driveway 15 feet away. Must have had mice or packrats nesting in the muffler and/or tail pipe at some point. I guess the 3FE wasn't happy with the blockage. And then all of a sudden it revved WAY UP, so I quickly turned shut it down. I had forgotten to look at the throttle cable adjustment under the hood. I adjusted that and restarted the engine. After that it ran fine. I ran it for 20 minutes, varying the rpms between 1,800 and 2,400, then shut it down. I then slowly started to back down the driveway to make sure the brakes work, they do. I decided to drive it over to State Farm and the local DMV office, but ran into problems under load. It lacked power under load, and the check engine light came on and stayed on. It would also stall at every stop sign. I parked it at the Shell station and my wife took me back to the house to pick up the truck and tow dolly. I was able to restart it, drive it up onto the dolly, and tow it home. I'll have to look at it again when we get back from Pig Party 2018. Hopefully it's nothing major.
 

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I forgot to mention - the first time it stalled I thought it had run out of gas, so I filled up the 2-gallon can and went back to the FJ60. It was very difficult to remove the fuel filler cap, and when I did not only was there a big whooshing sound, but it sounded like something suddenly expanded and popped back into shape, like it had been under vacuum. Could that be part of my issue? And do I use a vented or non-vented cap?
 

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