Timing Gear Cover (1 Viewer)

Joined
Nov 6, 2010
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Hello, it's time to remove the timing gear cover and replace the seal since I cranked down on the bolts and crushed the gasket. The oil literally drips after driving around. So frustrating, didn't know that cover was so touchy. I bought a used timing cover just incase this one is bent. My question is the person I bought it from put primer inside and out. I don't know what paint to use inside so I am thinking of using some acetone to try to get rid of the primer. I heard you can use Glyptal but don't think I want to paint the inside red. Also any advice step by step on doing this procedure. I bought a seal kit from Cruiser Corps and a gasket and crankshaft seal from Toyota. Any difference in quality with these gaskets. I'm planning on removing the radiator, remove all the belts, use 46mm socket with impact wrench, harmonic pulley remover, evaluate the cover, clean with acetone, do I need to put RTV high temp silicone on front and back of gasket? Also used Locktight on the 10mm bolts and silicone on the 2 lower 12mm bolts? Prior to tightening the timing cover bolts, install the crank pulley to align the crack seal. What mistakes were people making to have oil still leak out. Torque 12mm bolts to 18ft/lb and 10mm bolts to 43 in/lb? I want this to be 100% leak proof for a long time. So frustrated my drive way is looking so messy. I appreciate all the help. Thank you
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thebigredrocker

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Joined
Nov 5, 2013
Messages
3,524
Here's a few threads with tips



Let's talk about front timing plate and the oil squirter.

There are 2 very common mistakes made here.

First is putting the wrong timing cover screws in the wrong holes. Depending on year, there can be up to 3 different lengths of the M6 timing cover screws. When the wrong screw is threaded into a short hole, it will run into the front of the block, and act as a jack, lifting the plate off the front of the block, bending the plate and breaking the gasket seal. Putting the right screw back in the right hole will not correct this. Removing the plate to straighten or replace is necessary.

The second (similar) mistake is over over-threading the oil squirter nozzle. The squirter is visible in the pic posted above. It should be threaded into the plate until is it just through the inside. Then it is staked to keep it from backing out. If it is threaded in as far as it will go, then the plate will be jacked off the block, oil will not get into the squirter, and oil will leak around the plate.

Pics below show:
1) the back of the plate, squirter installed at end of oil slot.
2) squirter is notably proud of the plate (no straitedge needed).
3) witness mark on front of block from squirter, visibly unsealed RTV-ed gasket to right of squirter. Oh yeah, it leaked.
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