Is this too much Sealant for my Timing Cover? (1 Viewer)

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Hey all! Thanks for your help with my last couple posts this week. I do appreciate it a ton.

I just did my timing cover and now I'm finally finished sealing up my motor. I took pics before I tightened everything up. I did 2 layers of 'The Right Stuff' as well as a regular gasket.

What are your thoughts? Can somebody reassure me that this a proper amount of sealant? (first pic is layer #1 of The Right Stuff under the regular gasket and second pic is layer #2 above the gasket)

I'm sure it's fine- but I'm also not smart enough to know for sure. I still have fears that I used too much and somehow it got into my timing gears.

Thanks

20200409_213925.jpg


20200409_214436.jpg
 
Probably a bit towards the excessive side, and personally I like to loop around the holes, but I don't think it will cause any problems. Is there a bit squishing out the side of the gasket?
 
If the liquid gasket has contact to both parts everywere it should seal perfect. I would put the sealant direct on the proud part of the cover. And as AussieHJ said loping the holes if the threaded holes are going into the wet part. Also seals better against the enviroment, this means water/dirt from the outside entering the thread.
 
Probably a bit towards the excessive side, and personally I like to loop around the holes, but I don't think it will cause any problems. Is there a bit squishing out the side of the gasket?
A very small amount came around the outside in a couple spots but I wipem them up. Not terrible. I was just worried that it squished more inside the cover than it did outside because of embossed lip on the cover, if that makes sense.
 
A very small amount came around the outside in a couple spots but I wipem them up. Not terrible. I was just worried that it squished more inside the cover than it did outside because of embossed lip on the cover, if that makes sense.
Yeah, I see what you're saying, I reckon it will be fine tho.

I've found this stuff good where there is a gasket and you're just looking for a bit extra sealing
 
Just a heads up, because I learned the hard way, often the leak coming from the front isn't just the cover, it's the plate sandwiched between the front of the block and the cover which requires pulling the camshaft out (and everything associated with that) and removing some staked screws to replace. I'm not saying it to be discouraging, I def. cut down on the amount I was leaking by redoing the timing cover, but if you still see some leakage, don't think you messed up here and redo it with more sealant. As for me, I decided that it was a small enough leak I could live with for the time.

As for your initial question, I think it might be a little much, but I wouldn't sweat it at all. Just remember when you tighten it down you'll be squeezing it very thin. Looping around the holes is good, but not the end of the world if you don't as long as it's on the inside like you have. I would always recommend the FIPG made by Toyota though. I skimp on some OEM items, but that gasket sealant is the best.

Good luck! That's a satisfying thing to put back into place!
 
What motor is this? Doesn’t the lower bolt need sealant since it penetrates into the oil pan cavity? I might be brain dumping.
 
Just did mine a while back and as CUSailor related above, both the plate and the cover on mine were leaking. And as I got into the can of worms I found broken cover screws put back in the wrong holes, loose staked screws on the plate (PO hacks) and even a cracked-in-two lifter! Note the two large bottom bolts need sealant on the threads too.
 
Just did mine a while back and as CUSailor related above, both the plate and the cover on mine were leaking. And as I got into the can of worms I found broken cover screws put back in the wrong holes, loose staked screws on the plate (PO hacks) and even a cracked-in-two lifter! Note the two large bottom bolts need sealant on the threads too.
Wow that's rough!

Yeah, I put thread sealant on them.
 
No less important is having a flat cover. It’s pretty thin sheet metal and the bolt holes get dished from being torqued on. Set up an anvil and blocks, and tap the metal perfectly flat. Be careful not to over tighten the screws going back in.
 
No less important is having a flat cover. It’s pretty thin sheet metal and the bolt holes get dished from being torqued on. Set up an anvil and blocks, and tap the metal perfectly flat. Be careful not to over tighten the screws going back in.
I did this before the install. They seemed to warp slightly as I tightened them to spec but I suppose there's no way around that.
 
I was taught by an old Detroit hot rodder to put RTV on then smear a thin layer on the entire gasket area. Emphasis on THIN. The right thin. Install part and only tighten bolts until the RTV just begins to ooze. Let sit until almost completely dry and tighten then. All you need is a thin layer for a seal and all the extra you add squirts out and does nothing. A thin even layer makes the perfect seal. A tad messier but worth it when it's all said and done.
 
I was taught by an old Detroit hot rodder to put RTV on then smear a thin layer on the entire gasket area. Emphasis on THIN. The right thin. Install part and only tighten bolts until the RTV just begins to ooze. Let sit until almost completely dry and tighten then. All you need is a thin layer for a seal and all the extra you add squirts out and does nothing. A thin even layer makes the perfect seal. A tad messier but worth it when it's all said and done.

That's how I do it too. I prefer to use Toyota FIPG instead of generic RTV though; quality stuff.
 
I don’t like to use FIPG or right stuff with a gasket personally.
If I’m using that cork gasket, I like using a thin film of permatex aviation create a gasket on both sides.
that right stuff/fipg is great, better than a gasket.
 
Your rig will probably explode due to too much sealant
 
Fudge

Sealant is likely not The cause.

what happened
 

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