Timing cover seal (1 Viewer)

[Hardcastle]

Hey guys. I've been wanting a fj40 forever and finally bought a mostly stock 78 a few weeks ago. I haven't owned my cruiser very long and this web site has already been a huge help. I've used the search feature to death and the FAQ section but I still have a few questions about putting in a new timing cover gasket.

First off when I bought the cruiser it had a small leak from the front of the moter (the original 2F). I decided I would clean it up a bit and try to determine where exactly the leak was coming from. I did this and took it out for a spin. When I got back to the garage I had a major leak and it looks like it's from the timing cover. I guess cleaning it off with a pressure washer was a bad idea, there was a ton of oil spilling out. It looks like the PO did not use a gasket and just loaded it with a silicon sealant. There are torn pieces hanging down from the cover. After searching this website I think I have a good idea of how to properly install my new gasket but my question is what all will I need to remove in order to get to the gasket? Do i need to remove the radiator? Are there any special tools I will be needing? All the threads I saw the motor was already out of the truck when they replaced this. If you know of any threads I missed or any other websites that would be helpfull i would appreciate it.

Thanks in advance. I also attached an image of my new toy for fun.

 

[Joe Egolf]

nice cruiser , welcome, I think removing the Radiator is best as it will give you good access to remove the cover and get it right

 

[Finally Mine]

Last year I replaced my gasket, and the biggest problem that I had was removing the large nut on the pulley in front of the cover. Don't know how your set for tools but your going to need a deep socket and I believe it was 46mm. Ended up using a long pipe over the rachet handle for leverage. After a few busted knuckles, it finally came loose. As stated in the previous post removing the radiator is a good idea for better access, I also took off the radiator fan. Look in the search section for more tips. Good luck.

 

[petescoffee]

If you don't have a winch pull the radiator and fold down the front bib. Super simple as Toyota put a hinge at the bottom. Check your water pump for leaks out teh bottom while your there.
Get a haynes or factory manual it will describe what you need to do.

 

[Hardcastle]

Thanks guys. I'll have to go pick up that deep socket but it shouldn't be too bad of a job. I was told by the Napa guy that I shouldn't use the gasket and should just use a silicon sealant. Some of the older threads I was reading said to use both. Anyone have an idea as to what is the best way to do it?

 

[FJ40zen]

I used threadlock on the bolts, a gasket and permatex red. Hand tightened the bolts on the cover and let the permatex dry. Put permatex on the tips of the bottom two larger bolts. Left the pulley off. I torqued them down(very little torque-something like 7 ft/lbs) later and installed the pulley.

Don't tighten the bolts on the cover too tight -you can sever the gasket

 

[kb3gun]

I finished my engine this spring. Used a gasket and silicon. I also replaced the seal.

When you remove the cover bolts, keep them in order. There are a couple of different length bolts. You'll want to remember where they go.

Also, check the shaft on the harmonic balancer when you remove it. If there is a groove worn, you'll need a speedi-sleeve to repair it or it could tear up the seal.

 

[desertpat]

Timing cover install can be tricky.
Maybe yours is leaking because the bolts were not in the correct place from the PO - different holes and different lengths and OD bolts - do a dummy make up to be sure the bolts button up the cover snug and not bottom out. Use a piece of wire to see the hole depth and compare it to the bolt length.
I suggest that you install the timing cover WITH the pulley on (hand tight is enough) to be sure the pulley seal is centrailized - if it's not centralized, it may wear and leak prematurely. After centralizing the cover and butting it up so it won't move, you can remove the pulley for the final torque.
I believe the book says to use a gasket goo that doesn't harden.
Good Luck

 

[FJ40zen]

Centralizing is the key as desertpat said. I eyed it straight on since I had issues with the sealant smearing out of place by doing it with the pulley on the crank on the first attempt, but it is a good point to have it centered. Also make sure the cover is flat and even. Any bends on the mating surface can allow leakage due to uneven seal pressure.

 

[PabloCruise]

One thing I have not seen mentioned yet is that you may be leaking because your oil squirter is bottomed out on the block, effectively "lifting" the cam plate from the block and making it impossible to seal.

I had this situation on my freshly rebuilt 2F (in a '78).

I had to pull the camshaft to get that plate out.

In order to get the camshaft out, I had to pull:
-radiator
-fan
-crank pulley (read up on using starter to break loose)
-valvetrain
-side cover (to pull lifters)
-fuel pump?
-lots of misc items.

For a simple oil leak, it was a PITA...

If you go after it, make sure your squirter isn't the source of your leak!

 

[apeterson]

The gasket is cork get an oem one and also use sil. If water pump is older just change it