Timing chain guide broken (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 3, 2024
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3
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Location
Australia
Hey all,
Hope you have had a good week, just took the valve cover off a 1fz 80 series and the timing chain was snapped in two. Obviously it needs to be replaced, only issue is that I can't pull the motor where I live at the moment.... anyone had any luck replacing it when still in the car? The plan is to compression test and if that comes back try do it in the car, then do a full rebuild when I move/ buy (given house prices in Australia not the easiest atm hahah) also noticed exhaust clearences are a bit tight around 8 thou instead of the 12 I was hoping for

And merry Christmas!!!
 
Your chain broke or your guide broke? Either way you can replace in the truck. If you pull the upper oil pan you will need to Jack the engine up to remove. I have never swapped these parts without removing the timing cover also but it may be possible. You can remove the timing cover with out removing the head. You need to remove the water pump studs, the two bolts from the top under the camshaft gears, power steering pump studs and oil pump so you can pry the cover down and out. I did remove the timing cover on an engine on a stand to see if it was possible without removing the head and upper oil pan and was successfull. But it tore up the head gasket and don’t think it would be possible to reinstall cleanly without messing up the head gasket.
 
Its absolutely doable with the engine still in the truck.
20240216_193913.jpg
 
Here’s i pic with the head left on. Be advised this is a 6 hour disassemble and you need two people to set the upper oil pan because of the tight clearance and not ruining your FIPG seal.

IMG_0511.jpeg
 
Here is a test engine I pulled just the timing cover off with out removing the head or upper pan. I would not trust this method for reinstalling as you would smear all the lower timing cover FIPG seal off and not catching the head gasket would take some serious finesse!

IMG_9815.jpeg
 
FAQ material
 
Hey all,
Hope you have had a good week, just took the valve cover off a 1fz 80 series and the timing chain was snapped in two. Obviously it needs to be replaced, only issue is that I can't pull the motor where I live at the moment.... anyone had any luck replacing it when still in the car? The plan is to compression test and if that comes back try do it in the car, then do a full rebuild when I move/ buy (given house prices in Australia not the easiest atm hahah) also noticed exhaust clearences are a bit tight around 8 thou instead of the 12 I was hoping for

And merry Christmas!!!
If the chain broke you won’t be able to do a compression test.
 
Your chain broke or your guide broke? Either way you can replace in the truck. If you pull the upper oil pan you will need to Jack the engine up to remove. I have never swapped these parts without removing the timing cover also but it may be possible. You can remove the timing cover with out removing the head. You need to remove the water pump studs, the two bolts from the top under the camshaft gears, power steering pump studs and oil pump so you can pry the cover down and out. I did remove the timing cover on an engine on a stand to see if it was possible without removing the head and upper oil pan and was successfull. But it tore up the head gasket and don’t think it would be possible to reinstall cleanly without messing up the head gasket.
Sorry if I want to clear it was just the plastic on the timing chain guide, super helpful info thanks!!
 
Here is a test engine I pulled just the timing cover off with out removing the head or upper pan. I would not trust this method for reinstalling as you would smear all the lower timing cover FIPG seal off and not catching the head gasket would take some serious finesse!

View attachment 3787922
I'm not sure if I trust my finesses skills that much, hopefully it i can get away with just the lower pan off!!
 
Legend, so glad it can be done. Any way to prime the oil pump? Saw your meant to fill up before reinstalling the upper oil pan
After it was all buttoned up and before I screwed on the oil filter, I squirted some oil down the port from the oil filter to the oil pump. I had to do this way because the time between bolting the engine back together and actually starting the engine was probably close to 6 months.
 
After it was all buttoned up and before I screwed on the oil filter, I squirted some oil down the port from the oil filter to the oil pump. I had to do this way because the time between bolting the engine back together and actually starting the engine was probably close to 6 months.
Smart idea that will be usefull
 
Mission complete.

Was able to do it in the car by lifting up the engine.

I think the chain cover will leak in the future as the head gasket got a bit pinched, I did put a thin layer of gasket maker along the top of the cover, but should do for the time being. No large leaks when it started up, was worried as I haven't done timing chain before so glad it didn't blow up haha

I was able to torque the crank bolt to around 340 NM using a torque multiplier (arm on a block of wood) and pully held in place with a chain around the chassis.... not super confident on how accurate it is so might go to a mechanics to get it torqued properly.... let me know what you think, started up fine but hasn't been under load

If anyone has any questions about the process feel free to reach out!
 
Mission complete.

Was able to do it in the car by lifting up the engine.

I think the chain cover will leak in the future as the head gasket got a bit pinched, I did put a thin layer of gasket maker along the top of the cover, but should do for the time being. No large leaks when it started up, was worried as I haven't done timing chain before so glad it didn't blow up haha

I was able to torque the crank bolt to around 340 NM using a torque multiplier (arm on a block of wood) and pully held in place with a chain around the chassis.... not super confident on how accurate it is so might go to a mechanics to get it torqued properly.... let me know what you think, started up fine but hasn't been under load

If anyone has any questions about the process feel free to reach out!
Nice work, not a Fun job but doing something your self that’s difficult is very rewarding! The biggest thing is making sure that bolt is good and tight sounds like you got it.
 
Mission complete.

Was able to do it in the car by lifting up the engine.

I think the chain cover will leak in the future as the head gasket got a bit pinched, I did put a thin layer of gasket maker along the top of the cover, but should do for the time being. No large leaks when it started up, was worried as I haven't done timing chain before so glad it didn't blow up haha

I was able to torque the crank bolt to around 340 NM using a torque multiplier (arm on a block of wood) and pully held in place with a chain around the chassis.... not super confident on how accurate it is so might go to a mechanics to get it torqued properly.... let me know what you think, started up fine but hasn't been under load

If anyone has any questions about the process feel free to reach out!
Your torque on that crank bolt is too low. Needs to reach 415 NM or 306 lb-ft.
That torque is critical because that's what drives your oil pump. If too low, the oil pump drive may slip or stop and you will get inadequate oil pressure.
 
Your torque on that crank bolt is too low. Needs to reach 415 NM or 306 lb-ft.
That torque is critical because that's what drives your oil pump. If too low, the oil pump drive may slip or stop and you will get inadequate oil pressure.
Thanks for the input I'll get it tightened down all the way, I was keeping an eye on oil pressure its good at the moment but defiantly don't want to risk it!
 

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