Cylinder compression loss after timing chain replacement (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter nashqadri
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- Thread starter
- #62
I agree. This is the best option after all that has happened but the issue i am facing doing this is nobody is comfortable doing the job. A couple who agreed are not available till another month. Dont mean to digress but mechanics in my area are way too busy and there is hardly anyone closeby with an hourly rate of less than $170 an hour.... and there are many of them all over Lake Forest and Costa Mesa just having a hard time finding the right one who will take the job. I am inclined towards acquiring a used motor after testing it thoroughly if this one doesnt run.
Professional and mobile aren't usually two words you usually here together when referring to mechanics. Usually you get one or the other. Not to say that there aren't some very good mobile mechanics. But when you're dealing with a vehicle like this you really need a specialist. Doing a head gasket or a timing chain also isn't something that you want a mobile mechanic doing.
- Thread starter
- #64
He says he can see it... i dont have any evidence.
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
Cylinder bore crack? Which one? Bore scope? He did not explain or elaborate on the entirety of the situation? He left you thinking that it could have been caused by dropping or hammering?
Mark...
ppc
M Go Blue
This is all bull crap, what your genius mechanic sees is most likely a casting ridge and is perfectly normal. A cracked block is not going cause low compression in all cylinders, one or two cylinders possibly. At this point replacing the knock sensor and coolant is just pure insanity and complete waste of time and money. These are not going to keep the vehicle from starting/running.
This is my last post. You can't fix stupid, I'm out of here.
This is my last post. You can't fix stupid, I'm out of here.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Honestly, if $170/hr is the price you pay, at least for an inspection and assessment, it may be the cheapest option.
There's a saying, "A poor man pays twice".
You're already there.
You've had two mechanics work on it, and you're looking to junk the motor that's in it with no evidence what the mechanic you fired told you is correct.
With the alternatives you see being to spend $10k plus on new motors for a homeless man's shelter, your family doesn't like.
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
You need to reset.
Only a month out for what sounds to anyone you might be talking to like it might be a complete engine rebuild? With full diagnosis they will need to perform before they can even guess what the problem really is since what you are giving them (based on what you have given us) does nothing at all to help them get a grasp on the problem.
That is damn good.
You are expecting/hoping to pay less than $170 an hour labor in a major metropolitan area for a specialist who is in a high demand/limited supply situation?
In 2024?
Sorry to say, but this ain't a ****ing jiffy lube appointment you are talking about.
If you want to own a Cruiser of FZJ80 vintage or older, you are gonna have to be able to wrench on it. Or you are gonna have to have a knowledgeable and experienced Land Cruiser specialist to do it for you. And that is gonna mean paying for the knowledgeable and experience Land Cruiser Specialist. and his SHOP!
Getting a used motor might be what you do in fact wind up needing to do. Doubtful in my mind, but all I have to go by is what you have related to us here. Seems like you had a good motor before all of this started... due to work that did not need to be done, somehow being done wrong? Maybe you should do it yourself this time to make sure it is done right. Or get it to someone who knows what they are doing and let them do their job (and stand behind it afterwards) and not have any need to try to figure it out from what people on the internet are telling you about stuff that is (apparently) just not in your wheelhouse.
I am probably sounding a bit harsh. That is just because... Well. I guess it is because I am. But that does not change the facts.
Mark...
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The block below the freeze plug by the knock sensors and temp sensor is known to crack. If your mechanic was working in that area the leak would probably be visible. Plenty of other threads mention this crack area. Of course this wouldn't be your compression problem.
Cracked Block 1FZ-FE
Last year I noticed a crack in the engine block of my 94 FZJ80, just below a driver's side freeze plug. It's an almost identical issue to the one noted here: Leaking Freeze Plug The above thread fizzled out with no real solution so I figured I would start a dedicated thread to this issue. If...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #70
Update: Looks like I landed back on my feet quite ok. Engine started and it runs fine. He wanted ignore the block crack observation and continue trying to start. I gave him a thumbs up. Spent a few hours but finally got the engine running. So far, there are no leaks from the block and from the sound of the motor, while the car is parked, it seems the compression is okay. It does not sound like there is any issue. Stepping on the gas revs up the moto immediately and sounds smooth with no vibrations. Things dont add up but I dont care at this point. What happens next will be interesting when i start driving it.
The problem with driving is that the harnesses to the transmission are not connected yet. The last mechanic (fired) didnt complete the job. New mechanic says some of the harnesses are not even there but there are nowhere in the garage as well. I dont think the first mechanic took the harnesses off. Perhaps they are tangled up somewhere on the top of the transmission and he cant see them.
Another issue is that the fuel pump was not turning on with the ignition so he wired it up directly from the battery to test and it started buzzing. The motor still won't start though and there was no explanation for it. He kept trying but then the direct wiring also stopped working and the fuel pump went completely dead. I told him to take it out. We tightened up all the screws and examined for any breakage and then wired it up again to test holding in hands.. guess what... it buzzes. We put it back on and the wired it up and wollah!!.... the engine came to life with a loud roar. That feeling was as if had won a lottery. Fuel Pump seems to be unreliable so mechanic says try to replace it.
Heres is the video
The problem with driving is that the harnesses to the transmission are not connected yet. The last mechanic (fired) didnt complete the job. New mechanic says some of the harnesses are not even there but there are nowhere in the garage as well. I dont think the first mechanic took the harnesses off. Perhaps they are tangled up somewhere on the top of the transmission and he cant see them.
Another issue is that the fuel pump was not turning on with the ignition so he wired it up directly from the battery to test and it started buzzing. The motor still won't start though and there was no explanation for it. He kept trying but then the direct wiring also stopped working and the fuel pump went completely dead. I told him to take it out. We tightened up all the screws and examined for any breakage and then wired it up again to test holding in hands.. guess what... it buzzes. We put it back on and the wired it up and wollah!!.... the engine came to life with a loud roar. That feeling was as if had won a lottery. Fuel Pump seems to be unreliable so mechanic says try to replace it.
Heres is the video
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So basically, we are still guessing.
