Build Tilda Bogue Service Station - Retro Dune Sixty

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Joined
Feb 10, 2002
Threads
594
Messages
48,451
Location
Canton, Mississippi
I was contacted a few months ago from a guy that likes what I do and wanted the full meal deal done to his cool 60.

This is an Arizona truck with what looks like dealer installed retro stripes.

It's amazingly rust free but sports just enough body damage to tell a great story to the eyes.

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It's been sitting here for a few weeks waiting its turn. I've got it in the shop now and if everything go smooth I'll get it out of here before I head to Italy March 7th.

Today was a great day. Got the Terrain Tamer parabolics installed.

Need to update the sway bar links.

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Look how clean this frame is
 
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As you can see in the pics I installed all of the small spring shims on the top of the pack which makes this sit about 2" lower than possible if you move them under the pack.

60s from them come with the fronts on the top and the rear on the bottom which will give you a pretty major stink bug.

For fully loaded trucks I put the fronts on the bottom for max lift. This one has no armor so I went low and level.

Before with the clapped out flat springs and monster shackles
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After

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Nice Rig! this will be fun to watch.

What do you think of that Terrain Tamer kit? have you wheeled a 60 with it installed?
 
Nice Rig! this will be fun to watch.

What do you think of that Terrain Tamer kit? have you wheeled a 60 with it installed?
I have installed about 10 kits now. Everyone is super happy. I'm running them on my 45 and it's a total game changer

 
This is the reason quoting a job is usually a loser.

Trans came out nicely and as I dug deeper the pilot bearing was nicely frozen. That was about to be a problem.

But it's totally baked in.

I've shot all my arrows. I'm about to head to town and buy a new slide hammer style puller.

This puller has been perfect. Always works. Upgraded from a slide hammer style to this when I broke the slide tool
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Bread just pushed out the cover so now the bread just comes through the balls.
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Heat. Nope.
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M8 bolt wedged in there with heat. Breaking the bolts.

Sigh.

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Oof.
 
@wngrog I inherited a very old and very enormous Snap On slide puller and custom-filed a tip for it. I've never had a pilot bearing last more than two slams with that thing - usually they fly out in one. Hopefully your new tool does the trick.
 
Don’t think I’ll be able to fall asleep tonight if I don’t know the outcome.
 
I've seen videos of guys using chains attached to the slide with a brake rotor or something with more mass on sealed hub wheel bearings on NE rusted cars so when the hammer slides it applies more force with each hit. Something along those lines may work here as well.
 
I've seen videos of guys using chains attached to the slide with a brake rotor or something with more mass on sealed hub wheel bearings on NE rusted cars so when the hammer slides it applies more force with each hit. Something along those lines may work here as well.
P = MxV

P = momentum (appx of force in this case)
M = mass
V = velocity
P has to overcome friction

So yeah, heavier slide would create more P. Brake rotor is a great idea, maybe drill & tap the slide, connect chains to rotor. More velocity also increases P - which is where a longer rod helps. The Snap On slide hammer I have is about 7-8lbs and the rod is about 2.5’ long.

Maybe try to use freeze spray on the pilot bearing and heat on the crank flange. That would reduce the friction that you’re trying to overcome.
 
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