POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
I upgraded my trunnion bearings from 17mm to 25mm. have to get them installed and the knuckles set up to see how that works out.
Tie rod ends (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter kerplunk
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- Thread starter
- #22
After spending too much time screwing around with a harbor freight sand blast cabinet trying to clean up the connecting rods, I have it all reassembled and back on the road. A nice pretty 3 coats of Por-15 that ended up being brutalized with a pipe wrench setting the toe in and centering the wheel.
It's a little better, I'm pretty sure. Most of the shaking in the wheel is shaking the entire body. Still wanders a little, but is perfectly controllable with one hand at 60 mph now.
The rod ends / ball joints still "twist" about, which at first alarmed me, but I guess that's just normal... And now I'm wondering if I did all this work when maybe I could've just adjusted the toe in.
Checking the caster with the tires on and vehicle on the ground, it seems to be about +1 degree. So, now I'm considering adding shim for 2 or 4 degrees to see if it makes it more better.
And while up close and personal with the shock I noticed some engraving on the body, almost looked like "Ran" in big letters toward the front and probably continued on, I'm guessing, with a "cho" toward the shock toward where I couldn't quite see anymore. And, according to them, they are upside down:
www.gorancho.com
More little projects to add to my list!!!
It's a little better, I'm pretty sure. Most of the shaking in the wheel is shaking the entire body. Still wanders a little, but is perfectly controllable with one hand at 60 mph now.
The rod ends / ball joints still "twist" about, which at first alarmed me, but I guess that's just normal... And now I'm wondering if I did all this work when maybe I could've just adjusted the toe in.
Checking the caster with the tires on and vehicle on the ground, it seems to be about +1 degree. So, now I'm considering adding shim for 2 or 4 degrees to see if it makes it more better.
And while up close and personal with the shock I noticed some engraving on the body, almost looked like "Ran" in big letters toward the front and probably continued on, I'm guessing, with a "cho" toward the shock toward where I couldn't quite see anymore. And, according to them, they are upside down:
Which Direction Should Rancho Shocks Be Installed? / Articles & Press Releases - Rancho® Performance Suspension & Shocks
Installing shocks in the correct direction is crucial to a successful repair. Learn how to determine ‘which end is up’ to correctly install Rancho shocks.
More little projects to add to my list!!!
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
If you suspect the springs have been replaced, check and tighten the U bolts. Make sure the shackles are snug, maybe take the apart and grease the bushings and then snug them up. You'll be able to see if the bushings are still good. Check wheel bearings, check for bad trunnion bearings, the shaking of the whole vehicle can be tire balance too. As I mentioned b4, all these can contribute to death wobble. It can be one thing or a combination of things to cause the wobble. Turn the shocks around while your at it. After you install the caster shims be sure to put the suspension at full droop to make sure the drive shaft spins freely and the U joint yokes don't interfere with each other. The more you rotate the axle towards positive caster can create this interference.
It would be quicker to take it to a mechanic with an alignment rack. It would only take 30 minutes to get an accurate measurement of camber/caster/toe/rear thrust.
- Thread starter
- #25
After replacing the ball joints on the tie rod and connecting rod (which improved things some, I think) I finally got around to shaking the tires a bit, and ya, there was a loose wheel bearing...
I'm still confused how this didn't effect braking?
Repacking the wheel bearings and tightening them up and the wobble is gone. It still wanders and is kinda vague, and some amount is expected but it still feels like there a little too much. But I've bought some 2 degree shims and U bolts that are waiting to install and believe I should be rechecking my toe in, even after just repacking the bearings, considering they were loose... And some new poly something bushings, that should at least cut down on some of the squeaking (unless that's coming from the spring packs themselves)...
But it's really pretty controllable at 60 now, when I'm going down that big hill.
I'm still confused how this didn't effect braking?
Repacking the wheel bearings and tightening them up and the wobble is gone. It still wanders and is kinda vague, and some amount is expected but it still feels like there a little too much. But I've bought some 2 degree shims and U bolts that are waiting to install and believe I should be rechecking my toe in, even after just repacking the bearings, considering they were loose... And some new poly something bushings, that should at least cut down on some of the squeaking (unless that's coming from the spring packs themselves)...
But it's really pretty controllable at 60 now, when I'm going down that big hill.
OlYellr
SILVER Star
I feel your pain and going through all components IMO is a must...
On the completed list this year...I had the gearbox rebuilt, new rag joint, rebuilt center link, new TRE...
I ordered shims (4 degree) from George @orangefj45 - ordered the 4Plus flip kit too... (Shims are at powder coat - and shackle pins)
Need to order new springs and shocks - going Dobinsons...
And will rebuild the knuckles early fall before I attempt any more alignments.
That is what I am doing for my steering in 2023.
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
Thanks for the mention!!!!
FWIW, we can supply all the parts you mentioned.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers
- Thread starter
- #28
To be honest, my method has been sloppy and haphazard at best...
Really the first thing I checked was the tie rods, and when I noticed the twisting shown in the video I posted, I was kinda startled, having never seen that before on other vehicles (really haven't looked that closely at too many others, BTW), I ran out and replaced what I'm now thinking might've been some perfectly good tie rod ends that were just doing what's normal (the brand new ones do the same...).
And, figured I'd check the trunnion bearing and wheels bearing later, just in case. And, ya, everyone suggesting doing that were all right, it was a wheel bearing....
If I had just jacked the thing up and looked at that, looking at all the parts closely before running off to replace stuff, I'd have saved a bit of time and money.
That being said, whoever owned this and put it all together before me was #$@* nightmare. At least one of the castle nuts was missing a cotter pin, and most broke loose and came off with only about 20 ft/lbs.... And the wheel bearings, the tabs on the locking washer were all twisted up out of shape but none really looked bent back enough to actually prevent the wheel nuts from turning (which is probably why they came loose). This is just the latest of the poor work I've found from the PO... (truck topper clamps holding the top on, nuts missing on the shackles, speedo cable resting on the exhaust, burnt white wire coming off the alternator, ratcheting seat belt spools installed sideways and the shocks mounted upside down.... I'm sure I've forgotten parts of this growing list... Oh, and the exhaust is welded to the frame, no insulators, latest thing I've noticed.). So, taking apart and putting back together bits of it aren't really a total waste of time, if only to make sure, at least if it was done questionably, I'm fully aware...
I guess my point is, be a little less like me and don't just start replacing stuff, unless you can see that it's a problem, and you should be able to inspect his all and see the issues before starting, which I didn't really do...
- Thread starter
- #29
Continuing this great adventure of mine, I think I found another culprit for the sloppy steering... Moving the steering wheel side to side, I can see the input shaft for the steering box turn at least 10-15 degree with the pitman arm not moving.
And the first issue, it was converted to power steering by a previous owner and I have no information on that. I suspect his is a mini truck power steering box, can anyone confirm, any specific things I can look at to confirm?
And is there a way to adjust these? Or does it pretty much need to just be rebuilt or replaced? I watched one of two videos on youtube of people replacing seals, but am guessing I need more than new seals...
And the rag joint looks pretty ugly, but seems to be solid as far as I can tell? All the bolts seem to have nylon lock nuts and at least the one on the clamp has markings on the head that I hope are for a higher than general grade... But I'm still wondering if this is something I should be worried about?
And the first issue, it was converted to power steering by a previous owner and I have no information on that. I suspect his is a mini truck power steering box, can anyone confirm, any specific things I can look at to confirm?
And is there a way to adjust these? Or does it pretty much need to just be rebuilt or replaced? I watched one of two videos on youtube of people replacing seals, but am guessing I need more than new seals...
And the rag joint looks pretty ugly, but seems to be solid as far as I can tell? All the bolts seem to have nylon lock nuts and at least the one on the clamp has markings on the head that I hope are for a higher than general grade... But I'm still wondering if this is something I should be worried about?
On 50 year old trucks replacing all those steering related parts is never a waste of time or money. You have a good start. Just keep working through it.
77mustard40
SILVER Star
Looks like a mini truck box. There has to be play in that tired rag joint, replace it. The box has an adjustment in the middle of the plate with the 4 bolts facing the exhaust header. Loosen the center lock nut with an open-end wrench while using a short flathead screwdriver to hold the position of the cross shaft. Once loosened, tighten the cross shaft and retighten the outer locknut.
I’d hold off on the steering box adjustment until you’ve replaced the rag joint and added some caster shims. See what that gets you. My mini truck box has a little play after a recent rebuild but I’m fine with it. You need to be really careful not to over-tighten the cross shaft adjustment, if it’s too tight your steering will be too tight and will not return to center. You should be able to feel the point of resistance, mine wanted to rotate as I torqued the lock nut so it took a couple of tries to get it right (for me).
I’d hold off on the steering box adjustment until you’ve replaced the rag joint and added some caster shims. See what that gets you. My mini truck box has a little play after a recent rebuild but I’m fine with it. You need to be really careful not to over-tighten the cross shaft adjustment, if it’s too tight your steering will be too tight and will not return to center. You should be able to feel the point of resistance, mine wanted to rotate as I torqued the lock nut so it took a couple of tries to get it right (for me).
I have a fj80 power steering box mounted up front to eliminate the extra drag link, idler arm pivot, and tie rod ends. I have about 5 degrees positive caster with wedges. Mine does not wander at all. It actually drives really nice, even at 70+ MPH. I don't even have a steering stabilizer.
- Thread starter
- #33
It wanders like it just loose... The wobbles are pretty much gone, I think, it's all kinda subjective and I still get flashbacks when I start going over 50 mph. But it definitely wanders more than it should.
I've already added caster shims (2 degrees only..), which made some improvement, and just shaking the wheel in the garage don't see any movement in the rag joint, but a ton in the box itself.
And, that screw is almost all the way in, maybe one thread sticking out past the lock nut. Any ideas how far it's safe to go? (I am assuming screwing it in tightens it.)
- Thread starter
- #34
That sounds like a project for next year, maybe, if I can finally get around to finishing that project I started two year ago...
I've always thought there are way too many parts involved. But doing something about that seems like a lot of work.
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
I have FJ80 tie rod ends and fabing up a tie rod now and will drive it with a FJ80 power steering box.
77mustard40
SILVER Star
Check for movement where the pitman arm connects to the drag link, there's a cheap kit for rebuilding that union (pitman arm moves before moving the drag link). You shouldn't need to adjust the box much to take up slack in the box, one full turn would be a lot. I was moving mine by about a quarter turn when setting it back up after I rebuilt it.
