Thread 'I have a 2001 Lexus lx470. The transmission only works in 4wheel drive.' (1 Viewer)

[Chris73]

Let me start with I’m a carpenter lol and a decent parts changer. Not a mechanic lol. I haven’t had any issues with the transmission other than some travel when I put it in park. Yesterday I go to leave go gas and had no traffic so I went to pull out easy and felt a pop and heard a faint grinding as of it popped out of gear. At that point I had nothing. No drive,reverse, or even park. I drifted back into the parking lot with the help of two awesome people that pushed. I looked underneath and nothing was hanging down. The rear shaft was fine as well as all the rear uv joints. I’ve been told that they are front wheel drive untiyyou kick the 4x4 in. Not being able to see under the front to check the uv’s and shafts while in the parking lot I put it in 4x4 and drove it home. Nothing at all unless it’s in 4x4. Ima try and look underneath the front end today but any advice is welcome! Thanks in advance!

 

[krispykritter]

Dumb question - is the 4hi/4lo selector smashed all the way forwards and/or backwards? That's likely not the problem if it'll move in 4WD.

These trucks are full-time AWD unless you push the diff lock button, then they're 4WD.

There's lots of things that could cause it to not move in AWD - sounds like you have ripped the splines out of your drive flanges on the front CV axles (most likely culprit I think).

 

[jLB]

Check CV axles/drive flanges.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

@Chris73, do you know how to check the CV/flanges?

 

[krispykritter]

@Chris73, do you know how to check the CV/flanges?

BE SMART HERE - THE TRUCK DOESN'T CARE WHERE YOU PUT YOUR FINGERS!

A few ways - this can be dangerous and it's best to have a friend you trust in your truck while you check this stuff out:

1. Pop the wheel center caps off, then the dust cover on the drive flange itself. Put truck in gear and see if one or both axle ends spin when truck isn't moving. Visible twisting of the axle end as you go between drive and reverse indicates worn drive flanges and/or CV splines (usually both) but they may not be broken yet.

2. With the truck in gear, stick your head underneath and see if you can see the front driveshaft and/or either CV axle spinning while the truck isn't moving.

3. While looking at CV axles and/or front drive shaft, have someone shift between drive and reverse and observe how much movement occurs as the slack in the front driveline is taken up in each direction. A little is fine, but a lot can indicate very worn CV axle or drive flanges.

 

[MongooseGA]

. I’ve been told that they are front wheel drive untiyyou kick the 4x4 in.

Stop talking to whoever that person is.

 

[JohnVee]

The truck is not front wheel drive, ever.

Make sure the transfer case lever is pushed all the way forward into H, not N. That is the normal position. You won't go anywhere if it is in N. And you don't want to drive on pavement when it's in L.

Put the transmission in Neutral and move the transfer case lever back a forth from H to L a few times just to make sure it fully seats into H.

And...you were told wrong.

 

[Mike NXP]

I believe the problem you are having has happened to several members. It seems to typically lead to a failure where the front axle meets the wheel hub.

Here is a thread with some pics
Axle Popped Out Hub (Bad Wheel Bearing?) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/axle-popped-out-hub-bad-wheel-bearing.1154957/

and here
Real Time help with Land Cruiser Front Axle/retaining ring/Drive Flange/Wheel bearing - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/real-time-help-with-land-cruiser-front-axle-retaining-ring-drive-flange-wheel-bearing.1134166/

 

[JunkCrzr89]

The truck is full time 4wd. As others said, check the front hub flanges and outboard CV axle splines.

 

[Chris73]

Thank you everyone for the feedback! Now I guess right to the point lol. Is this a job a carpenter/parts changing guy like myself can do or should I leave alone and get a mechanic because in reality this is too technical and needs a Machanic’s touch?

 

[krispykritter]

Have you ever changed a CV axle?

If yes - you can do this. The only thing that's a bit more difficult here is you have to (at least I did) separate the upper control arm from the knuckle, and man that too some major work with a ball joint separator tool. Gotta be careful not to destroy the ball joint boot. If you've totaled the flange you'll definitely need new CVs as they tend to wear together.

If no, probably just pay someone.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

This is a gravy job. It's one that boys on book time make money with.

You need a tie rod puller and a pitman arm puller like the one below. One is larger than the other.

Pull the hub to get tool access to the TRE (good time to repack your bearings while you're there). Use the tie rod puller on the TRE and the pitman arm puller on the upper and lower ball joints. Each joint only takes a few seconds. Pull the knuckle off, yank the CV, replace the CV seal, pop the new CV in, and assemble in reverse. An hour per side tops.