Thoughts on cylinder wall streak? (1 Viewer)

[landtank]

I've used clevite bearings with no regrets. They aren't that expensive.

 

[Azca]

When I pulled mine I was into it for just under $5,000 but, I replaced darn near everything. From new timing chain and slippers, new oil pump, new power steering pump, ALL new hoses, new photoman alternator upgrade with two new alternators (upsetting) new starter, new AC system components, plug and wire kit, coil, cleaning injectors, ceramic coating of heat shields and exhaust manifold, engine and transmission mounts, new engine stand and hoist and other associated parts and tools.

What I am getting at is I went overboard and happy that I did. All of this represents one less thing I need to worry about. I know my cruiser well now and don't have to worry about much for many years to come, other than belts and hoses. I don't have to waste valuable time and endless hours cursing about replacing something when I had the opportunity when the engine was out. The old adage, you never have enough time to do it right but always have enough time to do it over again applies. I don't have time to waste anymore and would have been beyond upset if I had to pull the engine again, for any reason.

 

[Atomic City]

The machine shop contacted me. The valves were all good. They will replace the seals and guides, as they were worn. No cracks, everything looked good. I forgot to ask him how much, if any, he had to take off to level. If I have time, I am going to drop the block, crank, and pistons off with them tomorrow. He said that the head should be complete next Tuesday. Who knows how long it will be for the block work, though. They are busy.

 

[Atomic City]

I've used clevite bearings with no regrets. They aren't that expensive.

Forgive the newb-style questions, but I did a little searching and couldn't find the specs on the clevite bearings. It doesn't appear that you can get the clevites in staged sizes like the stock ones that have "marks". Currently, the marks on my block/crank/bearings indicate that I have the following:

rod bearings: 4 #4 bearings, 2 #5 bearings (from what I can tell, Toyota doesn't make the #5 rod bearings any more - or I can't find them - they just say "discontinued")

main bearings: 6 #4 bearings, and 1 #3 bearing.

I know that the dimensions of everything will be slightly different than when it was built, and I will have to wait on word from the machine shop as to what size bearings I will need, but do you happen to know what the specs/dimensions on the clevite "standard" bearings are?

Or am I overthinking this? For the rod bearings, it appears there is only 0.0001" difference between a #4 and #5 bearing thickness. Literally "splitting hairs". I don't have much experience with engine rebuilds - this is only my second one, and my previous was a Ford 400, and I let the shop do the calculating for me. In the end, I'll do the same and let the shop tell me what I should do, but I don't see options for "bigger" clevite bearings, should I need to turn the crank down (which I don't think I will need - the crank looks really good).

Anyway, sorry for the questions - just thinking out loud.

 

[landtank]

They dont do all that stuff. Just stock and undersized if turning the crank.

 

[Pin_Head]

If the machine shop decks the block, make sure that they deck the front cover / oil pump to match.

 

[Atomic City]

I've used clevite bearings with no regrets. They aren't that expensive.

The machine shop contacted me today and suggested I bore to the next step up piston size. I asked him about the crank and what bearings I should get. He said the crank looked great - that they will clean and polish it, and then said that his suggestion was a set of clevite bearings. He said that he hopes to have the work done by next week.

Thanks for all the discussion.