Thoughts of LizardSkin products on floorboard ? (1 Viewer)

[Skydog]

Lizard Skin is thick and will take abuse, it's just a softer finish than bedliner products. Over bare metal, I used Zero Rust then the LS products. Two coats of each product. I'm thinking you wouldn't need the primer in between products.

Not primer between the two LizardSkin products (SC & CI); but what about the CI properly curing, then scuffing that & cleaning; and then epoxy primer on top of the CI - prior to Raptor, etc ?? ... Or is that what you speak of as being redundant ?
~Skddog

 

[SW20]

There is a Line-X facility 15-min drive from our home. I hear what you say about the Line-X being used over the LizardSkin products. If so, I'd likely go that same route that you & @jetranger went - tinted the same hue of color as the rest of the vehicle. Either that or tinted Monstaliner or Raptor (which I understand Monstaliner & Raptor as being similar, if not the same, in chemistry to each other (both poly-urethane with fine ceramic dust mixed-in), and both as being the next best product to that of Line-X, albeit a bit less expensive, per DIY).
Thanks,
~Skydog

Have you consider taking the tub off the frame, and spraying the underside of your 40 with some DYI liner? That is much more work, but I am considering doing this with one of mine. That would protect the underside of the 40 and still give the interior a very stock look. It allows Lizard Skin for the inside without making spraying many layers of liner and dampener inside.

 

[Skydog]

Have you consider taking the tub off the frame, and spraying the underside of your 40 with some DYI liner? That is much more work, but I am considering doing this with one of mine. That would protect the underside of the 40 and still give the interior a very stock look. It allows Lizard Skin for the inside without making spraying many layers of liner and dampener inside.

TUB IS COMPLETELY OFF... The vehicle is COMPLETELY DISSEMBLED. All body parts are fully removed & independent from each other. Absolutely nothing is attached to anything else ... Now would be the time for me to do - whatever it is we decide best (and most ethical) to do.

Thanks for your thought on this. With every body part removed, I foresee myself undergoing a thorough, 'PERFECTIONIST' DIY type job - as I've zero interest in going about it otherwise.

Yes, tinted bedliner (Raptor, Monstaliner, etc) *could* be applied only to the underside - and the two LizardSkin products applied *only* to the upperside (of the tub). However, it would then need to be the normal, urethane paint that protects the upperside, LizardSkin CI product from surface abrasion. This can be done - but would not the (normally-not-thick) Raptor or Monstaliner be thin enough for use on top of the two, 1/2-thick applied LizardSkin products ?? ... And keep in mind, LizardSkin recommended only 10-mil of each product - on each side of the sheet metal, as opposed to 20-mil of each product on the upperside.
~Skydog

 

[Skydog]

Line-x is by far the best product, problem for me is the price, not so much the black, but when you go to tinting it doubles. I was told they have to drain the system, hose, gun, etc. and they don't like to do it. Putting Line-x over the two Lizard Skin products would make it extremely thick, I bet over 1/4". Monstaliner is thinner.

Agreed.
~Skydog

 

[SW20]

Agreed.
~Skydog

Yeah, it is not cheap.

 

[Jdc1]

I will be using a 2 part sprayable tinted chip guard by SEM on the floor and underside of my tub. It provides protection but doesn't have the pronounced texture of the bedliners.

 

[scrapdaddy]

In talking with both manufactures, no need for a primer between any coats. I loaded multiple layers up on both sides. I didn't think it would hurt and it hasn't.

 

[Skydog]

I will be using a 2 part sprayable tinted chip guard by SEM on the floor and underside of my tub. It provides protection but doesn't have the pronounced texture of the bedliners.

I'm all about wanting to be as smooth as possible (I'm wishing to experiment, at length, with whatever product, to determine just how smooth I can literally go). I know of the SEM product, but currently know not much about it. Will look into the SEM tinted chip guard product, that I can learn what you speak of. I appreciate your suggestion on this. ~Marc

 

[Jdc1]

I'm all about wanting to be as smooth as possible (I'm wishing to experiment, at length, with whatever product, to determine just how smooth I can literally go). I know of the SEM product, but currently know not much about it. Will look into the SEM tinted chip guard product, that I can learn what you speak of. I appreciate your suggestion on this. ~Marc

I got to see it on the underside of a 56 chevy. The inner fenders were sprayed with Raptor as well. I really liked the way the SEM looks. It is apparent that it's there but doesn't look or feel like bedliner.

 

[Skydog]

I got to see it on the underside of a 56 chevy. The inner fenders were sprayed with Raptor as well. I really liked the way the SEM looks. It is apparent that it's there but doesn't look or feel like bedliner.

And that's what I'd be seeking...

 

[jvg70]

Skydog, What do you end-up doing? My tub is off the frame and I'm thinking on doing some type of LS / tinted bed liner combination. I would appreciate if you would share your thoughts / experience. Pics would be great.

 

[Pierps]

I know this wasn't directed at me, but I applied both lizardskin products to the inside of my tub and painted it (no bed liner).

A few thoughts. Agreed with others that it is not a durable product. I regret using it to be honest. I'm going to need to put some kind of protection over it before I put the truck on the road, because it won't hold up super well to wear. So I'll put oem replica floor mats in the front, and will have to figure out something for the rear floor and wheel wells. I suspect loading up camping gear will destroy it.

The other thing I'd say is that the product is really prone to holding on to dust. This is a problem when you go to prep for topcoat. I did some other painting in the shop before topcoating the lizardskin, and the overspray dust got super embedded into the lizardskin. It was hours and hours of prep work to clean it up. It had a rough texture, so I had to sand it down too. Otherwise the tack cloth would break apart and leave fuzz all over the place. So top coat it as soon as you can after application! Trust me. Not fun.

If I could do it over gain, I would just do a tintable raptor liner, and deal with heat and noise via insulating floor mats. That was my original plan, and I regret deviating from it

 

[scrapdaddy]

My thoughts are you need the bedliner over the Lizard Skin, but you will have a rough surface. Mine is very tough and has shown no wear in the last four or so years traveling and camping. The dust does get in the low spots, though. I use Coco mats in front and a thick gym mat in the back.

 

[Iowa FJ40]

Curious if anyone has used Lizard skin on the fiberglass hardtop. I guess an argument could be made for both the sound control and ceramic, but guessing only on the inside?

I know that Cruiser Solutions sells, or uses on their restorations, a heavy duty felt for for a headliner that quieta things down but wonder if lizard skin would help.

 

[scrapdaddy]

I have both the sound control and the ceramic products on the inside of my 55 roof. With the roof being metal it got hot and sounded like a tin can before spraying the Lizard Skin, cool and quite now.