Thoughts of LizardSkin products on floorboard ?

[Skydog]

What's the consensus here of applying LizardSkin's two products, Sound Control (SC) and then Ceramic Insulation (CI), to the topside & inside firewall (and similarly on the underside & engine-side firewall) of a properly prepared 40-Series tub ?? ... And then painting on top of it, as CI is prone to easily scratch.

(LizardSkin suggested to apply on both sides of the metal, each 1/2 the amount as would have been applied to one, single side).

I ask because I haven't noticed very many others on this board going this route...
(@scrapdaddy or @FJsnoozer ?)

Thanks for your input !!
~Skydog.

 

[ginmtb]

@jetranger used it on his build perhaps he will chime in. I have the ceramic for my top when I redo that. I will likely go with both on the firewall of the 75 frame off resto when that happens.

 

[White Stripe]

I've decided against as I have heard it's not a real durable material. I think I will just use interior insulative matting that can be removed If it gets wet and let it dry out. I talked to a upol rep about spraying raptor over it. They said it should stick. But I don't want to be a guinea pig. I will be using raptor on the floor just as a alternative to paint. It's reported to be pretty durable.

 

[ginmtb]

Check out post #74: My UZJ40 Build - 2UZ iForce V8 and a750f 5spd auto

Talks about the application process he used.

 

[scrapdaddy]

On my 55, I used both Lizard Skin products then final coated with Monstaliner. Inside and out. The combination works very well. You're right about the LS, it's a softer material. I sprayed them in all the doors, under hood and fenders. She's a quite 55!

One thing about painting over the Lizard Skin, it's hard to get the paint to cover in all the rough areas, it's not a smooth finish. Another issue is color, it comes in black, which would be real hard to cover or you can get the Ceramic in white, easier to cover with a light color.

The Monstaliner stuck very well to the Lizard Skin, I have 6,000 miles on it now and so far looking great.

 

[snaggletto]

Different schools of thought on these topics of coatings other than paint are interesting. If you read through the 'worst mod' thread, you will see many that include bed liner products. The idea is that no matter how well you prep, any coating will fail eventually. The real question is how hard will it be to remove the products when they have failed. There is also the idea of perceived resale value and whether or not a buyer thinks you are trying to hide something under the coating. Just some things to think about.

 

[BROKEROB1]

I've been researching the last couple of months as well. For now, I bought a thick rubber pad to put under the OEM Toyota rubber mat and in strategic places around the floor. I custom cut pieces to make removal very easy, figuring it will be easier to take out to clean/dry, especially in the summer.

Here is what I used from Home Depot... made an unbelievable difference in quieting down the road noise!

 

[70fj40]

If it is a driven and used fj40 and it is prepped and applied properly I can't see it having a negative affect on resale. If it is an original resto then paint only is a better choice.

 

[SW20]

I have used Line-X for all my work Vans (Chevy Express) we would load pallets into them weighting 800-1000lbs using a forklight and just push it into the van. It has held up very well, while it has worn down due to us pushing the pallets on top of the liner, I have no problems with it lifting off the paint. No FJ40 or light vehicle will ever have that kind of work load so I cannot see that as an issue.
As for Lizard Skin, it has been used in my Chevy Nova and dampens the interior very well, I plan to use it inside my FJ40. It is not as durable compared to Line-X (not even close), and I can see it fail where ever there is heavy usage (floor pans). But I will coat the interior firewall, transmission hump and the underside of the fiberglass cap. With the ceramic coating it does lower the temps a bit, and I would like those areas have some heat and sound protection. I have used both products for my other vehicles for years, I have zero complains. Again, this is for Line-X and Lizard skin brands only. I cannot speak for other brands.

 

[UZJ40]

@jetranger used it on his build perhaps he will chime in. I have the ceramic for my top when I redo that. I will likely go with both on the firewall of the 75 frame off resto when that happens.

I would use it again in a heartbeat. You can comfortably touch the trans tunnel/firewall on a hot day after driving, where before, it could easily burn you.

I applied sound deadening, heat insulation, then Raptorliner on top and bottom of tub, firewall, as well as underside of roof. The noise I hear while driving now is generated by wind, not the road.

 

[Skydog]

The noise I hear while driving now is generated by wind, not the road.

... or the heart beat of your passenger, as you drive straight-up a mountain side...
Thanks !
~Skydog

 

[Skydog]

If it is a driven and used fj40 and it is prepped and applied properly I can't see it having a negative affect on resale. If it is an original resto then paint only is a better choice.

Thanks !! ... I'm already way-off the OEM-trail for the rebuild of my own '40 for it to become anything close to Showcase. Its rear sill has already been modified (now 2"x5" rectangular steel tube - though looks super-good); and the paint to be used, as of now, will likely not be a Toyota paint (am anticipating a flat or satin, olive drab type color, called 'Gray Black,' as formerly made by the now defunct DuPont). The rest of the vehicle, though, will be as OEM as possible, mostly original parts, engine, etc. - - Hence, for me, is desired to be geared as a really nice, completely rebuilt out of perfection, Trail Rig, that I keep, with hope, for the rest of my lifetime. Else, knowing me, if rebuilt to full, factory-spec, I'd likely end-up needing to sell it sooner than later. But as a trail rig, I would then have created a positive utility of it for myself & adventurous lifestyle.

Per my vision:

Thanks again ~Skydog

 

[Skydog]

I've been researching the last couple of months as well. For now, I bought a thick rubber pad to put under the OEM Toyota rubber mat and in strategic places around the floor. I custom cut pieces to make removal very easy, figuring it will be easier to take out to clean/dry, especially in the summer.

Here is what I used from Home Depot... made an unbelievable difference in quieting down the road noise!

View attachment 1400603

I recall, back in the day, when I last drove my '40 (something like 20+ years ago), the floorboard at my feet regularly became quite hot. Enough so that the heat would regularly transmit, in a painful way, through the rubber soles of common tennis shoes. If this is to be the case, over time, would such heat eventually melt the rubber of such a mat (even if thick) onto the painted floorboard ? Or perhaps, even slightly so ?

Thanks for the suggestion of the Home Depot, thick rubber foot-mat - which I doubt would move around very much if at all, in relation to something of lighter weight material (BTW, we've some FOUR Home Depots equally distant from our home, each within 15-min drive... Plus that of two different Lowe's... It's STUPID CRAZY !!)
~Skydog

 

[Skydog]

I have used Line-X for all my work Vans (Chevy Express) we would load pallets into them weighting 800-100lbs using a forklight and just push it into the van. It has held up very well, while it has worn down due to us pushing the pallets on top of the liner, I have no problems with it lifting off the paint. No FJ40 or light vehicle will ever have that kind of work load so I cannot see that as an issue.
As for Lizard Skin, it has been used in my Chevy Nova and dampens the interior very well, I plan to use it inside my FJ40. It is not as durable compared to Line-X (not even close), and I can see it fail where ever there is heavy usage (floor pans). But I will coat the interior firewall, transmission hump and the underside of the fiberglass cap. With the ceramic coating it does lower the temps a bit, and I would like those areas have some heat and sound protection. I have used both products for my other vehicles for years, I have zero complains. Again, this is for Line-X and Lizard skin brands only. I cannot speak for other brands.

There is a Line-X facility 15-min drive from our home. I hear what you say about the Line-X being used over the LizardSkin products. If so, I'd likely go that same route that you & @jetranger went - tinted the same hue of color as the rest of the vehicle. Either that or tinted Monstaliner or Raptor (which I understand Monstaliner & Raptor as being similar, if not the same, in chemistry to each other (both poly-urethane with fine ceramic dust mixed-in), and both as being the next best product to that of Line-X, albeit a bit less expensive, per DIY).
Thanks,
~Skydog

 

[Skydog]

Different schools of thought on these topics of coatings other than paint are interesting. If you read through the 'worst mod' thread, you will see many that include bed liner products. The idea is that no matter how well you prep, any coating will fail eventually. The real question is how hard will it be to remove the products when they have failed. There is also the idea of perceived resale value and whether or not a buyer thinks you are trying to hide something under the coating. Just some things to think about.

Thanks for your honest words. And I concur. Yes, I've read through the 'Worst Mod' thread you speak of. One horror story after another !! My story : I plan to long-term keep my rebuilt vehicle, use it as a trail rig, and self-realize I've created it as a restro-mod, and not the more universally-sought-after, full OEM restoration. ... I simply lack the up-front funds to create the novelty of full-out OEM factory specs. - - I hear what you advise about all things failing, and I must concur with your wisdom. Hence the thread here. I like the idea of the simplicity & functionality of the LizardSkin coatings, but have no previous experience with it, or similar such product.

~Skydog

 

[Skydog]

On my 55, I used both Lizard Skin products then final coated with Monstaliner. Inside and out. The combination works very well. You're right about the LS, it's a softer material. I sprayed them in all the doors, under hood and fenders. She's a quite 55!

One thing about painting over the Lizard Skin, it's hard to get the paint to cover in all the rough areas, it's not a smooth finish. Another issue is color, it comes in black, which would be real hard to cover or you can get the Ceramic in white, easier to cover with a light color.

The Monstaliner stuck very well to the Lizard Skin, I have 6,000 miles on it now and so far looking great.

My personal opinion : Quiet Is Golden.

Thanks for chiming-in.
~Marc

 

[Skydog]

I've decided against as I have heard it's not a real durable material. I think I will just use interior insulative matting that can be removed If it gets wet and let it dry out. I talked to a upol rep about spraying raptor over it. They said it should stick. But I don't want to be a guinea pig. I will be using raptor on the floor just as a alternative to paint. It's reported to be pretty durable.

I'd imagine the thicker the LizardSkin products are applied, the increasingly less durable ? LizardSkin says no greater than 20 mils. Perhaps this is a reason LizardSkin suggested applying 1/2 the thickness, but now on both sides of the floorboard ? - - The LizardSkin product will want to adhere to an epoxy primer. And so will Raptor. I'm wondering if the epoxy primer should be applied (to a properly prepared & fully sealed tub surface); and then the LizardSkin products; and then a 2nd coating of the epoxy primer, on top of the LizardSkin CI; and then the tinted Raptor - if THAT would be the MOST DURABLE scenario for a non-acoustic pad surface ??

Thanks for your input,
~Skydog

 

[scrapdaddy]

Line-x is by far the best product, problem for me is the price, not so much the black, but when you go to tinting it doubles. I was told they have to drain the system, hose, gun, etc. and they don't like to do it. Putting Line-x over the two Lizard Skin products would make it extremely thick, I bet over 1/4". Monstaliner is thinner.

 

[Skydog]

Check out post #74: My UZJ40 Build - 2UZ iForce V8 and a750f 5spd auto

Talks about the application process he used.

@jetranger has a rig to envy !! - He seems to have a good mindset & philosophy. ~Skydog

 

[scrapdaddy]

Lizard Skin is thick and will take abuse, it's just a softer finish than bedliner products. Over bare metal, I used Zero Rust then the LS products. Two coats of each product. I'm thinking you wouldn't need the primer in between products.