This item is no longer available - Cummins 2.8 Install

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Fuel system:

This took a little while to think through but it's not too bad. Here's a list of things you have to do or think about for installation.

1. Purge your tank and fuel lines of all the gasoline. I drained all the gas from the tank and used high volume compressed air to back feed the lines to the tank. (feed line, return line and evap line). I then put a 5 psi air line in the tank and and ran it for two days, about 8 hours each day, to get all the gasoline out.

2. Then using some hand tools take the plate out of the gas fill tube so you can get the diesel nozzle it.

3. Cummins calls for a 3/8" diameter fuel line. They didn't say it was mandatory or they didn't strongly suggest. We have 1/4" lines and after taking with TORFAB they didn't have any problems with delivery.

4. Cummins fuel/water separator. I placed this on the passenger side of the rig next to the fuel lines. The unit has a pump (see attached) to prime the system and feed to the main HP pump. The housing also has four ports to customize the feed and return lines based on your configuration.

5. I used the old firewall holes to mount the lines over to the HP pump with is on the driver side of the engine.

6. Prime the filter with diesel. DONE.

 

[TLC Norway]

Nice write up! Now, where's the rest?

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Nice write up! Now, where's the rest?

haha. It's on the way. Working the last couple days.

 

[TheNeek]

Thank you for fuel fuel process. I've been aiming at tackling the fuel system for the R2.8 for a while now. I like where your fuel filter is. Excited to see yours fire up!

 

[WSOPgold2012]

Thank you for fuel fuel process. I've been aiming at tackling the fuel system for the R2.8 for a while now. I like where your fuel filter is. Excited to see yours fire up!

haha. It's on the way. Working the last couple days.

If you guys had to guestimate...how much would it cost to have the R2.8 installed if paying to have it done? #Thanks #BucketList

 

[Seth S]

If you guys had to guestimate...how much would it cost to have the R2.8 installed if paying to have it done? #Thanks #BucketList

Including engine,trans, and parts? $30k to 50k.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

I already had an H55F. Bought used from Man A Fre back in '09, $1000. Now that no one is importing them you'll have to pay $3K something.
Engine = $9400 shipped. Got the '19 sale with purchase prior to June 30th.
Adaptor kit = $5K+
Bunch of Amazon and Napa purchases = $2K.
Already had an Aluminum rad
Spal fans $500.

Rough details but that's what I can remember.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Okay, Cooling System.

1. Get an aluminum radiator for better cooling. The manual states there should be a minimum size.
2. Don't get an intercooler (Charge Air Cooler CAC as Cummins calls it) that takes up the entire area of the radiator. Ideally half of the area is adequate. The rad needs to take priority for airflow, at least that's the emphasis I got from Cummins.
3. Get a really high CFM electric fan. I went with a dual SPAL that pulls 2700 CFM. There are others out there that get more. I heard about them after I bought the SPAL.
4. Block off all ports that are going to leak airflow away from the cooling fins on the Rad.
5. The thermostat housing is clockable which helped me select hoses. The coolant inlet is 2" and the rad is 1.5". I did a silicone 90 2" to 1.5" at the inlet and them a small 1.5' aluminum tube then a 1.5" Napa 90 from the rad.
6. 5/8" hose to the heater core.

 

[WSOPgold2012]

Including engine,trans, and parts? $30k to 50k.

Ill have the Trans...but that seems incredibly high when the R2.8 is 9k + inclds mostly everything....no?

 

[WSOPgold2012]

I already had an H55F. Bought used from Man A Fre back in '09, $1000. Now that no one is importing them you'll have to pay $3K something.
Engine = $9400 shipped. Got the '19 sale with purchase prior to June 30th.
Adaptor kit = $5K+
Bunch of Amazon and Napa purchases = $2K.
Already had an Aluminum rad
Spal fans $500.

Rough details but that's what I can remember.

And if you were charge someone ti install??

 

[Seth S]

It’s 15k to 20k just for the parts. Labor could easily be another $10 to $15k depending on what is done. LS swaps seem to be in the $20k and up range when paying someone else. It adds up. Obviously the more labor you can do the more you will save.

 

[TheNeek]

Did you get new radiator rubber isolators? I looked for some but they were discontinued?

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

And if you were charge someone ti install?

I would say about 7K~15K based on what an owner already has setup on the rig.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Did you get new radiator rubber isolators? I looked for some but they were discontinued?

I think I bought these from CruiserCorp when I did the restoration.

 

[WSOPgold2012]

I would say about 7K~15K based on what an owner already has setup on the rig.

20-30k aprox for basically a new truck... Not terrible. Have you had any of the issues ive read about?? How do you like the ride/performance?

 

[Seth S]

20-30k aprox for basically a new truck... Not terrible. Have you had any of the issues ive read about?? How do you like the ride/performance?

Well for a new driveline. Paint, suspension, wheels and tires, interior work could be another $10k to $20k and then you’d be in the new truck range

 

[NearJetties]

I got quotes from the usual suspects for a new LS or R2.8 with new transmissions and the quotes were all around $30k +/- a few k.

take out motors are cheaper but more labor.

 

[WSOPgold2012]

Well for a new driveline. Paint, suspension, wheels and tires, interior work could be another $10k to $20k and then you’d be in the new truck range

I'm hvn the H55 + new T-case installed Monday. Im hvn Kelly do my Body + Paint in Aug. And Ive ordered Custom Aluminum F+R bumpers and a 40 gal LRT from TT. A Bowfin roof rack. So...things in motion. Im rather happy atm with the Sniper and only have 200k miles on my rig...so, jus thinking ahead.

 

[WSOPgold2012]

I would say about 7K~15K based on what an owner already has setup on the rig.

Thanks!!! Youre right down the road from me...im over here in Evergreen when i'm in Colorado.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Power Steering

An underlying theme of this install is use as much 'Toyota' or 'Cummins' parts as possible. I also heard a lot of builders say this.

The power steering system was the first to adapt this philosophy for parts as much as I could.

The high pressure line from the pump to the box is the one major line that needed to be customer made.

I took the high pressure end that's on the box and cut the end off.
The other end is a banjo M16 1.5 thread pitch.
The Cummins manual calls for a 6H Banjo. (I had no idea what 6H means and couldn't find anything on the interwebs.)

I then took the end to my local Parker Hannifin store and they custom make the hose for me. They took my end I cut off and brazed my end on to their fitting. The other M16 end was press fit on to the hose and I was done. Took all of about 30 minutes and $100.
Note: -make sure you get a stainless steel washers. Using copper you will have a leak, at least that's what happen to me at first, then I changed to SS.
-Some Napa locations can make the hose for you but the Napa in Grand Junction didn't have metric end for the box end. It's odd that Napa don't have these ends.

PS Reservoir - I went with a 100 series (or GX470) reservoir. Based on the location I wanted to put this, the feed and return ports were positioned in a way that allowed it. I cut up the original bracket and welded it to the air filter box.

Next, buy some non-pressurized hydraulic grade feed and return hose and run the lines.

Finally, I placed the reservoir between the two brackets of the airbox and used the hole in the inner fender to run the lines. Looks pretty clean.

Here you go!