This happen to anyone else? (1 Viewer)

[Last Flight Out]

Ordered lift kit and got these from very reputable vendor here. Currently reaching out to find out I’m not seeing double.

I assume the rears should be a different part # - or maybe this is correct?

 

[cstav86]

If you are in the 2" lift category, I believe you are correct and missing the two front shocks. The part numbers should be:
(2) 33-062518 Bilstein 5125 Series Shocks Front
(2) 33-185606 Bilstein 5125 Series Shocks Rear

 

[wngrog]

Pre 74 or 75 the front and rear shocks are the same length because the rear lower mounts to a pin on the bottom of the axle perch.

They went to a longer shock when the pin moves to the ubolt plate.

Whats your setup?

 

[Last Flight Out]

Pre 74 or 75 the front and rear shocks are the same length because the rear lower mounts to a pin on the bottom of the axle perch.

They went to a longer shock when the pin moves to the ubolt plate.

Whats your setup?

Have a US stock 1981 40 now....going with 2.5" lift with standard OME springs and always assumed the fronts were the 606's and the rears were the 518's. But maybe this setup uses all 4 of the same part number. Im fine to be wrong here...everything I researched says otherwise (2 unique fronts and 2 unique backs). Maybe it is based on the kit and shackles etc.

 

[wngrog]

Have a US stock 1981 40 now....going with 2.5" lift with standard OME springs and always assumed the fronts were the 606's and the rears were the 518's. But maybe this setup uses all 4 of the same part number. Im fine to be wrong here...everything I researched says otherwise (2 unique fronts and 2 unique backs). Maybe it is based on the kit and shackles etc.

No you are correct. The shop sent you an early shock setup

You may want to confirm you have the later model pins and bushings too. Early and 81 are different size.

 

[B y r o n]

Info at this link shows different part number for front and rear. Without knowing how much lift you are going with not sure which part number is correct for your application because they will mount front or rear, valving should be different.

 

[peesalot]

I think the 60 - 82 year range has different mounting locations as Grog pointed out, the desc. in listing needs to be corrected.

 

[Last Flight Out]

Well, the vendor is telling me they prefer the 185606's on all four corners because of the 22.5" extended length (vs the 18.5" on the 062518's) as they prefer the longer shocks for more up travel and not bottom out the shock. Sounds plausible to me.

 

[peesalot]

I have found the problem is that the longer shock body causes interference at full bump using stock mounts requiring spacing down of bump stop but you do get more drop out. Install shocks and measure the shaft showing at ride height vs. the distance from bump to axle ?

 

[MOTOV8R]

Well, the vendor is telling me they prefer the 185606's on all four corners because of the 22.5" extended length (vs the 18.5" on the 062518's) as they prefer the longer shocks for more up travel and not bottom out the shock. Sounds plausible to me.

Maybe that got mixed up. Longer shock allows more down travel (extended length). Shorter shock allows more upward travel (compressed length). As suggested the best thing is to try it out. Ideally your leaf springs limit the down travel before the shock does and the bump stop should limit up travel, not the shock. It’s easier to extend a bump stop than to make your leaf springs droop less so erroring on the side of longer shocks might be better? Although too long a shock without the right bump stop can damage a shock pretty quickly.

 

[mtn biker]

Ordered lift kit and got these from very reputable vendor here. Currently reaching out to find out I’m not seeing double.

I assume the rears should be a different part # - or maybe this is correct?

View attachment 3591624

nope same same. The fronts and rears take the same shocks at least mine did anyway.

 

[Last Flight Out]

Maybe that got mixed up. Longer shock allows more down travel (extended length). Shorter shock allows more upward travel (compressed length). As suggested the best thing is to try it out. Ideally your leaf springs limit the down travel before the shock does and the bump stop should limit up travel, not the shock. It’s easier to extend a bump stop than to make your leaf springs droop less so erroring on the side of longer shocks might be better? Although too long a shock without the right bump stop can damage a shock pretty quickly.

Yep, this is how it was explained to me and sounds like they have sold them this way for many customers. I’ll give it a go and see how it responds.

 

[GA Architect]

Shucks.....

 

[Last Flight Out]

As I wait for the last package of hardware to arrive to replace the standard Billie’s with the 5100’s, I decided to go ahead and throw on the Bielstein steering stabilizer for good measure. Works like a charm, but I may grind down the cantilever just a millimeter or so to fit more squarely in the steering coupler as you can see below. I prefer it to be a bit more inset than where it is now.

 

[MOTOV8R]

Would the stock hardware work on that end? What are you considering grinding down?

 

[wngrog]

You have it 180* out.

Put the fixed end under the pitman arm and the rod end on the frame coming in from the rear

 

[Last Flight Out]

You have it 180* out.

Put the fixed end under the pitman arm and the rod end on the frame coming in from the rear

You mean flip it around, so the longer cantilever arm now goes to the frame fixed end? I saw some other pics where others have it the way I do, but happy to take any advice.

 

[wngrog]

I have not used a Bilstein before but the stock, Dobinsons and OME have the main shock body attached to to pitman arm not the frame

 

[Last Flight Out]

I have not used a Bilstein before but the stock, Dobinsons and OME have the main shock body attached to to pitman arm not the frame

Do you have a pic for reference by chance?

 

[wngrog]

Do you have a pic for reference by chance?

The accordion boot end on yours is where the larger end is on this style