Thinking about puttung Rust Bullet on my truck...

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Durabak

Durabak offers a smooth texture liner. Duraback comes in a variety of colors and has been used by some members of this board who may chime in. From what I have heard, Herculiner is Durabak made on contract from the parent company that is located in New Jersey (?).
The smooth costs a little more than the textured because it is all "juice" and no kibbles (which are pieces of rubber, probably old tires).
I have never used it but have used Herculiner and it is OK but rough, almost abrasive. The rough texture is more prone to gather dirt and dust.
 
Rust Bullit is a smooth texture product and in my opinion seems to be better than the POR 15. You CAN clean the uncured product from your equipment using toulene. Once cured you're out of luck cleaning anything off. I will be spraying the hidden and under body areas of the FJ45LV with the Rust Bullit.

A word of advice when you are complete and still have some stuff in the can. Clean the lip of the can WELL before replacing the lid or you will destroy the lid removing it next time. Rust Bullit is VERY tenacious stuff and it stays stuck well.

Rust Bullit comes in silver only as far as I know and can be top coated if you do it fairly quickly.
 
Very good to know, especially the note about the limited time to apply a top coat. That bit of info will play into my planning for when I get a new paint job. Although Rust Bullet silver and smurf blue sounds like a good two tone scheme, I have to say. :cheers:
 
IrollwithTojo said:
Recently I have been wanting to apply Rust Bullet on my truck, slightly over the fender like most other people and up front.
Does anyone have/know of the best or easiest way to go through with this? I was thinking if I went through with this to use a roller
Pics?
Pros/Cons
Opinions (Like I need to ask for them :flipoff2:)

:cheers: Fellas

-Carl
Click to expand...

It fades over time. You need to top coat it. Under the vehicle is fine. But in direct sunlight it will fade.

Ask me how I know.:D
 
Interesting bit of information Marshall. Their website states it will not fade or chalk. I plan on topcoating anyways on the exterior panels, however wasn't sure on the inner fenders.
 
On the duraliner was it put over metal that was rusted out and treated with rust bullet?
 
From the Dead

Gonna ressurect this thread o'mine, because its starting to get nicer out around here, (and my birthday is comin up:p) so I thought Ide get my order straight for whenever I get some Rust Bullit. Couple questions. As you can see in the pic above, thats where I want to put the RB. \
How much would I need for 2-3 coats?
How much of the etching spray would I need?
How much prep? Wire wheel the rust, what wire type (?) would work best? Fine/Course?
As for the rest of the body, that's not rusted, what prep shoud I do?
Overall how long would this process take? Im guessing 3-5 days...

Thanks Fellas :beer:

-Carl
 
Bump...
 
Do you want to use the automotive formula under, and the black shell as top coat? Or are you gonna use bedliner over the RB?

I used a brush for the Automotive (on frame and firewall), and it kind of bubbled. I'd use a roller next time. Couple of qts and one of black shell should be plenty... Prolly have some left over for other sections.
 
Spike Strip said:
Do you want to use the automotive formula under, and the black shell as top coat? Or are you gonna use bedliner over the RB?

I used a brush for the Automotive (on frame and firewall), and it kind of bubbled. I'd use a roller next time. Couple of qts and one of black shell should be plenty... Prolly have some left over for other sections.
Click to expand...

Ide like to get the black finish, so is the black shell pretty much the same as a bedliner? If not, which bedliner would best for the price?

-Carl
 
I used Herculiner on my 62. I treated the rust first and the herculiner took care of the imperfections. It only costed like 90 bucks for a gallon kit to do a truck bed. I had plenty of it leftover, but like Trollhole said, it fades in a over time.
snow.webp
 
Last edited:
How did you treat it? Wire wheel?

-Carl
 
Black shell is a semi-gloss, smooth top coat. Not like bed liner at all. When I do my sides like this, I plan to use the RB Automotive, then hurculiner or Duplicolor bedliner in a rattle can.
 
Spike Strip said:
Black shell is a semi-gloss, smooth top coat. Not like bed liner at all. When I do my sides like this, I plan to use the RB Automotive, then hurculiner or Duplicolor bedliner in a rattle can.
Click to expand...

Hell with semi-gloss, also I didnt know that a bedliner came in a jingle can... interested:hhmm:

-Carl
 
Yup - even Harborfrieght carries the Duplicolor Bedliner cans.
 
update about my axle. It still appears to be mostly rust free, but i think its starting to show up.
If the assembly or part can be taken apart and stripped then powder coat is probally the best. I found a powder coating shop in my local, and have given up painting small parts. For the time and headach it takes to paint, not to mention the dirty air in my barn yielding s***ty results, ill just get them coated. I hate breathing in that s*** anyways. All i have to do is media blast the part and tell them what color i want. It might be a little more expensive than using hardware store paint, but in the long run when you factor in the extended durability and good looks, its worth it.

I just had a few parts done for my dads pickup, no pics online at this time, but they look great, way better than anything that ever got painted by me. I am intrested to see how the coating will hold up to stone chips and such.
 
Dunno - never used it. I've only seen the guys on extreme4x4 use it... But I'm gonna give it a try, when the time comes.
 
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