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Joined
Feb 6, 2022
Threads
4
Messages
32
Location
Durango, Co
Hi, I've had an 1985 FJ60 for a while now. I'm trying to keep to old girl running reliably. When I first got her I changed the fluids, hoses, belts, water-pump just because they were "unknowns" and easy to do. So I take full responsibility for any and all screwups :) I suspect that my thermostat (new OEM) isn't performing correctly. The dash gauge reads real low (close to cold always) and the Holley Sniper temp (gauge installed in block drain) takes forever to hit 180 degrees, is often lower in the summer at highway speeds and has never been above 190. To be clear I don't know what temperatures equate to hot or cold, I've never seen number listed so this may be perfectly fine but the heater does take a loooong time to get hot.

So I armed myself with some beers and got on the internet. What could go wrong? I decided to check the self installed thermostat figuring that I botched the install but it's one if the things on the old girl that doesn't leak so I'm real reluctant to open it up. Curiosity got the better of me so I obtained a lower and upper gasket today and opened it up expecting to find an upside down thermostat. As best that I can tell it's installed correctly. The gasket was on top of the thermostat, kind of holding it down. Is this correct? Does it matter if it's base housing-thermostat-gasket-top housing or base housing-gasket-thermostat-top housing?

The upper gasket was in place but a little out of round. Is this an issue?

I noticed two plugs on the base housing that are... well pluged. Should the sender for the dash guage be here? As best that I can tell the sender is in the head, drivers side, slightly behind the carb (see pics) is this ok? Am I getting an accurate reading?

A lot of the treads that I've read on thermostats suggest applying copper anti seize to the housing bolts. I have anti seize but it's not copper. Can I use it or should I get copper?

Lastly burping. I do that after a beer but how do I get my cooling system to do it? It is referenced in many threads but I haven't read of a procedure. I haven't found anything in my manuals. The best that I can piece togehter is. Park with the font up hill, remove radiator cap, turn heater on, run motor, repeatdly squeze top radiator hose, add coolant as needed, continue until she won't take any more. How does that sound?

One more lastly. If it's not obvious I'm not a mechanic, I have some basic tools, access to the internet and a desire to learn how to fix my own sh#t my terminology and methodology may be off please correct or educate me.

Here are some pics for reference.

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typically the thermostat is stamped with the temp when it opens. IE: it'll have a small stamp that says 190 on it or something. The plugs on your housing are caps from where previous vacuum ports were installed. Assuming your vehicle is desmogged. So no, there was no temp sensor installed there. The temp sensor is at the rear of the head on drivers side. It's a single spade type connector.

If the upper round rubber gasket was deformed and not sealing properly it would allow coolant to circumvent the thermostat and could possibly cause your low temp issue. The thermostat is installed correctly.

Personally I say any anti-seize is fine, copper or not. It's better than nothing.

and lastly, burping is typically done with an automotive coolant funnel that fits over the radiator cap. You let the vehicle run with the heat on. I typically let them warm up and then rev the motor up and down to help push pockets of air out, then I shut the vehicle off once warm and let it cool down on its own and then repeat the process all while the funnel is installed.
 
That doesn’t look like the Toyota thermostat. Maybe they’re different now but mine didn’t look like that.
If it’s not a genuine Toyota thermostat — replace it.

 
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@TheDurangoKidd Sounds like you’re on the right track with all this stuff, nice work. My one piece of advice is throw the Haynes in the trash and focus on that factory service manual (FSM) that you have - it’s much more specific. I would also get the other two FSMs: Emissions and Body & Chassis. With those three and some searching around on Mud to see how other folks handle problems there’s almost nothing you won’t be able to do. There are digital copies available for free in the Resources section here on Mud - Click here.
 
The top gasket should be a fiber composite, I have found bits of rubber in the coolant where the PO used a rubber o-ring and it had disintegrated.
 
That's not an OE or OEM thermostat; it's a Motorad. Motorad is a German OEM but not Toyota. Usually they're pretty good, but may be the wrong temp or possibly defective. One of the Motorad that looks exactly like that is a 160*

Buy the correct 190* OE (OEM is 'TAMA' brand, WST3-88A, but in the US same price as Toyota-boxed).
 
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Thanks for all of the replies. I tested the thermostat on the stove. It's stamped for 180 degrees and opened right in that temp range, less than 10mm. So I cleaned everything up and put it back together. I haven't had much test time yet, my brother got an elk so I helped pack and process. I find it interesting that this is not the Toyota OEM thermostat or top gasket (the old and new are rubber, not fiber composite as @micruz60 stated). I thought I got these from the Toyota dealer the 1st time that I did this job, but my memory is sometimes faulty. This go round I got the gaskets from NAPA as they had them in stock. I'll get some seat time in this week and report back.

Thanks again

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Sux that valve plug is leaking. When I got my cruiser the temps were wild as well, I tried so many things, it ended up being the Motorad thermostat mentioned above. OEM got it straight.
 
I was worried that I would destroy the lower housing trying to remove the plugs. It looks like it is no longer available from Toyota, I did find this as a last resort OEM Thermostat Housing Kit for '81 to '87 Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ60 with Oil Cooler - https://www.cityracerllc.com/products/oem-thermostat-housing-kit-for-land-cruiser-fj60-fj62

Look like I have something to be thankful for! (Plus the dealer was still open so new gaskets and a thermostat are on their way)

What would you recommend that I use to seal the plugs back up?


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Yup. Those BVSVs have the equivalent of Red Loctite applied from the factory. Plenty of flame is your friend.

Permatex thread sealant work fantastic. Never had a leaker using this stuff:


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