Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
That's excellent .. just concern about keeping that way for long periods .. since I use my welder sporadically ..
The welders thread (1 Viewer)
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That's excellent .. just concern about keeping that way for long periods .. since I use my welder sporadically ..
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It will be fine, if your worried... take a piece of 1/8" and arch bend and then tack it to make it like a garden hose hanger...
J
I used this type of cord support for years on multiple machines and never had an issue. The lazy loops will not form memory. The real problem comes from dropping a heavy object on your cable resulting in a crushed liner. I never step on any cord hose etc if I can help it. Theres times the MIG will sit for weeks/months while I'm on a machining or automotive project. So long term storage like this has not effected the performance.
I wanted to post up some photos of my solution for steel stock storage. The steel rack was built back in 1992 and I always had issues with the storage of 4'x8' sheets/plate.
With the new shop eve hight, I decided to modify the rack to hold both 20' stock and plate. The plate will require the fork lift to pull sheets as they are 7.5 feet off the floor keeping the drive through open. Two posts where added and beefed up to support the overhead sheet storage. I will store 6-7 sheets on each pair of support arms. Six 5" HD Casters (all swivel) where added to allow the rack to be pulled away from the wall for periodic sweeping/mopping.
After painting, the rack was rolled into place and loaded with 20' lengths of light to medium steel stock.
Every piece was wiped clean prior to loading on to rack. My plan is to use 3/4" plywood as the base of the sheets to keep them flat when stored. With the two upper sections loaded the rack is still movable. The lower section will hold larger stock and flat bar of different sizes. I need to build a smaller vertical rack for pieces that are less than 10' as I don't want to clutter the rack with remnants. The idea is to place feed rollers along the wall to the left of the rack. This will allow me to pull what I need and roll the material into the horizontal band saw. 20' input rollers and a 10' output roller to the left of the saw. The idea will improve my over all efficiency as I work alone.
With the new shop eve hight, I decided to modify the rack to hold both 20' stock and plate. The plate will require the fork lift to pull sheets as they are 7.5 feet off the floor keeping the drive through open. Two posts where added and beefed up to support the overhead sheet storage. I will store 6-7 sheets on each pair of support arms. Six 5" HD Casters (all swivel) where added to allow the rack to be pulled away from the wall for periodic sweeping/mopping.
After painting, the rack was rolled into place and loaded with 20' lengths of light to medium steel stock.
Every piece was wiped clean prior to loading on to rack. My plan is to use 3/4" plywood as the base of the sheets to keep them flat when stored. With the two upper sections loaded the rack is still movable. The lower section will hold larger stock and flat bar of different sizes. I need to build a smaller vertical rack for pieces that are less than 10' as I don't want to clutter the rack with remnants. The idea is to place feed rollers along the wall to the left of the rack. This will allow me to pull what I need and roll the material into the horizontal band saw. 20' input rollers and a 10' output roller to the left of the saw. The idea will improve my over all efficiency as I work alone.
After restocking the rack, I had quite a few pieces of stock 10' or less. I really didn't want to clutter the rack with a bunch of remnants making it a hassle to pull material not to mention time spent. I decided a vertical movable rack was the ticket. I have conduct, PVC, copper and other items I could store conveniently on the said rack. I call it the "rib cage" as it reminds me of five floating ribs. The spine is 2" x 4" 14a. the ribs are 1"x 12a. round tubing and the base is 30" x 30" made from 2" x 2" x 1/4" angle frame with a 14a. diamond plate sheet with HD casters. The rib cage was built with scrap other than the angle and 1" tubing.
The spine was laid out and drilled to 1-1/8" holes, the ribs (5 ea.) where laid out and bent (one piece) on the bender. Once the spine and ribs completely welded, I welded the assembly to the base. A piece of flat strap (2-1/2" x1/4") was welded to the diamond plate to prevent "oil canning" and a gusset was added made from the same stock as the spine.
This design allows me to quickly sort through the remnants, preventing pulling a 20' section if a shorter piece is needed. I will also store the solid stocks of materials used when I machine parts. The whole rack moves with little effort for sweeping/moping.
The spine was laid out and drilled to 1-1/8" holes, the ribs (5 ea.) where laid out and bent (one piece) on the bender. Once the spine and ribs completely welded, I welded the assembly to the base. A piece of flat strap (2-1/2" x1/4") was welded to the diamond plate to prevent "oil canning" and a gusset was added made from the same stock as the spine.
This design allows me to quickly sort through the remnants, preventing pulling a 20' section if a shorter piece is needed. I will also store the solid stocks of materials used when I machine parts. The whole rack moves with little effort for sweeping/moping.
Really nice , like the rack design ...
Sarge
Sarge
Damn. I love the whole shop!
Thanks guys,
I'm still outfitting the final phase of the new shop. The issue is, I've had to stop woking on the shop to catch up on paying jobs. The positive is I have been able to really think out designs for the shop. The photo is a 14K dump trailer I had to build last month.
I'm still outfitting the final phase of the new shop. The issue is, I've had to stop woking on the shop to catch up on paying jobs. The positive is I have been able to really think out designs for the shop. The photo is a 14K dump trailer I had to build last month.
Damn that's a nice shop and welder.
Thanks Trollhole,
So I loaded up the "rib cage" vertical rack with remnants, of various pieces of steel, copper, aluminum and PVC. The weight is unknown but a good guess would be around 1k-1200. It works pretty damn good and you can feel the weight when pushing it into place. Next day off I will load the plate sheets and park them overhead. If I don't die from a plate avalanche, I will post up results. haha
So I loaded up the "rib cage" vertical rack with remnants, of various pieces of steel, copper, aluminum and PVC. The weight is unknown but a good guess would be around 1k-1200. It works pretty damn good and you can feel the weight when pushing it into place. Next day off I will load the plate sheets and park them overhead. If I don't die from a plate avalanche, I will post up results. haha
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
I bought a Hobart 140 this weekend. Ready to start making junk for my 80!
Josie'sLandCruiser
Stop calling it a "FJ."
Hi all,
Question for you experienced MIG welders.
I ran low on Argon/CO2 mix shielding gas. My welds started to suck. I swapped in another bottle (Argon/CO2.)
But the welds are spotty now - some look "normal" others more like when low on the shielding gas.
Should I have "burped" or "bleed" the shielding gas system on my welder (Hobart Handler 190) after hooking up the replacement bottle?
Thanks much,
Alan
Question for you experienced MIG welders.
I ran low on Argon/CO2 mix shielding gas. My welds started to suck. I swapped in another bottle (Argon/CO2.)
But the welds are spotty now - some look "normal" others more like when low on the shielding gas.
Should I have "burped" or "bleed" the shielding gas system on my welder (Hobart Handler 190) after hooking up the replacement bottle?
Thanks much,
Alan
well, well, I tried to weld some stainless steel with regular flux core steel wire. I thought something would blow up or the welds would fall apart when I'd look at them sideways, or everything would crack into minute pieces, or the sky would fall and all that. Lo and behold, it appears to have welded just fine... Mmmm....
Beginner's luck? Or are they typically fine if one does not care about corrosion?
Beginner's luck? Or are they typically fine if one does not care about corrosion?
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Exactly my question. If bet that the regulator is not set up properly.
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Spotty/porosity tells me two things... 1) contamination of the base metal or filler metal and/or 2) shielding gas is improperly set. Too much shielding gas can cause turbulence in the flow and allow atmospheric gases/O2 into the weld area causing porosity instead of preventing it. Too little gas, same scenario.
Most guys set a regulator and never look at it again until they start having issues.... Check it before you weld EVERY TIME! I do it 2-3 times a day. Also, a new/full bottle will yield around 22-2600psi, the cheaper regulators tend to "bleed" more pressure/gas, you may have a really nice Victor (or similar) set up and not your issue at all. But, seals, rings and other components wear out over time. Gauges are even worse with cheaper set as well.
I weld with .035" wire and usually run around 14-20 CFH.
Set your regulator at 15CFH and then turn it up/down from there until you like the results.
J
Josie'sLandCruiser
Stop calling it a "FJ."
Josie'sLandCruiser
Stop calling it a "FJ."
Thanks Reevesci and GLTHFj60, I will adjust the regulator and see if that help solve the issue.
Regards,
Alan
Regards,
Alan
All excellent advise, the most basic I can add would be aware of environmental causes like breezes,fans etc.
I also purge at the beginning of the weld day and between bottle changes.
I also purge at the beginning of the weld day and between bottle changes.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
I weld in my " shop " which it's my driveway .. it's not open, not close, not windy for sure, and use around 24CFH most of the time ... am I wasting gas .?
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