- Thread starter
- #21
What did you end up doing? I can't imagine spray, but then again I did a smooth body without the weird areas a tub would have. Let me know, let's keep this as much as possible THE official thread for durabak
THE unofficial Durabak Thread
- Thread starter bosljeff
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I'm bumping this to see if I can get some current feedback since its been around 9mo since its been done.
Any current pics. How is it holding up?
I am planning on doing a combo of rough as a first layer and then smooth after that. Just curious if it dulls out and gets gray over time even with the UV protectant in it.
Any current pics. How is it holding up?
I am planning on doing a combo of rough as a first layer and then smooth after that. Just curious if it dulls out and gets gray over time even with the UV protectant in it.
- Thread starter
- #23
It looks exactly the same. It is holding up great, even over the holes I repaired on the rear wheel panel. I can get some pix for you soon...I just ran it through a touchless car wash (I don't know if the fabric stuff on a touch car wash would leave fuzz all over the rough durabak coat) and it has the exact same amount of shine as the day I put it on.
As for the rough/smooth combo, why? Just curious...
As for the rough/smooth combo, why? Just curious...
Curious did you use the electrical tape then cover it with the painter's blue tape? How long did it take to cure? How long did you wait to remove the tape?
- Thread starter
- #25
Yes, it was electrical tape with the green tape slightly overlapping it (see post #6 pic). Total cure time, if you read all my posts, was around an hour for each application, then I let it sit for several days (after I totally removed all tape) in the garage. Last layer of tape was after it had been curing for almost 3 hours.
- Thread starter
- #26
1 Year Later
Just so everyone knows...it has been one year and my Cruiser never saw a garage, sat outside in the NC sun all day, everyday and the durabak looks exactly the same!
Awesome Stuff!!!!
Just so everyone knows...it has been one year and my Cruiser never saw a garage, sat outside in the NC sun all day, everyday and the durabak looks exactly the same!
Awesome Stuff!!!!
Wheres the best place to buy it? Any coupon codes for it?
- Thread starter
- #28
I bought it directly from them, 2 gallons of black (not smooth) with UV protectant (haven't even opened second can)...I would get 4 roller brushes from them to be safe (they are a special kind that if you run out, you are screwed). No coupons that I know of...
Cote-L Distribution Company
Cote-L Distribution Company
I used it last night and the results were great thus far. I will add that the product does come in 1 gallon or quarts. Had I known this I would have ordered quarts for everything. He substituted the gallon for quarts without telling me it was not in stock. No big deal. I initially bought 1 gallon of bright red smooth and textured black both in UV.
It was much easier to use than the duplicolor gallon I used for the underneath. That stuff is goopy even after you mix it up.
It was much easier to use than the duplicolor gallon I used for the underneath. That stuff is goopy even after you mix it up.
- Thread starter
- #30
Glad you like it. Like I said, now a year later, EXACTLY the same! Awesome stuff...I'll never even consider having a company (cough...Rhinolining...cough) do it for me...
- Thread starter
- #31
Jan 16 2010
Still looks great. I can't even find any thin spots.
Still looks great. I can't even find any thin spots.
Last edited:
great job, and thanks for the write up. it still looks sharp, and since you don't mention it, I am assuming you have not had to touch up any spots. It must be holding up off road very well!
like 4x4 Station Wagon above, I'm curious if anyone has used the spray in product. I would to hear about their experience as well.
like 4x4 Station Wagon above, I'm curious if anyone has used the spray in product. I would to hear about their experience as well.
- Thread starter
- #33
fwiw, i've heard zero complaints about brushing it on and many complaints and issues about spraying it on. It really doesn't seem like it would do any better coverage or really save any time. Even if I had the equipment to use a sprayer, I prob wouldn't do it. Roll on was easy (prep was long, but that goes for spray too, so...).
I just did my bumper in black this weekend and it turned out awesome. I have an advantage in utah as the humidity is generally below 10 percent and the temps are under 60 right now. After two hours it was still tacky.
I did 3 solid coats and it is great.
My FJ-62 is somewhat rough so I am going to Durabak the roof and lower panels in white. We shall se how it turns out.
I did 3 solid coats and it is great.
My FJ-62 is somewhat rough so I am going to Durabak the roof and lower panels in white. We shall se how it turns out.
- Thread starter
- #35
I hadn't thought of that. My rear bumper is awesome, but the black is flaking off. Rather than powder coat it, I may just prep it and us the smooth finish durabak. Good idea!
I recently picked up an '03 F150, and have been looking around for the best coating to cover the bed. I'm interested in the durabak after reading on here and seeing how the jobs have come out.
My question is, where do you all purchase it? The lowest prices i found were at durabakstore.com, but I don't see them mentioned here. They seem to have lower prices and more colors (!). Does anyone have any experience with them?
My question is, where do you all purchase it? The lowest prices i found were at durabakstore.com, but I don't see them mentioned here. They seem to have lower prices and more colors (!). Does anyone have any experience with them?
- Thread starter
- #37
I honestly didn't even look for other vendors other than the original...sorry.
I'm making up my mind whether to go the smooth or rough painting the outside of my 40. Seems like the rough is most popular, how is it for washing dirt and mud off ? I suppose a pressure washer is needed as a sponge or cloth wouldn't work with the rough surface. I read spraying the smooth didn't go well Danno, how does rolling it on work ? Thanks, Alex
- Thread starter
- #39
Depends. Are you just doing the "border" look similar to mine? If so, yeah, I'd go rough because it is more forgiving aesthetically when it comes to application. Rough is probably most popular, whether people have really thought about it or not, because as long as the border looks good the rest will be easy to look good. Just make sure the borders are prepped very well and you'd be good. As for washing mud off, a power washer has done great and as you can imagine, the rough destroys clothes and stuff so there isn't any other way to "scrub" it that I can think of.
As for rolling it, I can only speak on behalf of the rough, but I don't really see what the advantage of spraying would be. I've only heard of complaints, issues and problems when it comes to spraying. The only complaint when it comes to rolling is time. They both require very good surface prep and tape borders, maybe even bigger tape borders for spraying. Rolling is not hard at all. If you've ever rolled paint on a wall, you are qualified.
If you are planning on painting your entire ride, which is a look I'm not a fan off, I personally would then go smooth. Either way to me, if you are painting the whole thing looks tacky, but the rough all over the vehicle looks the most tacky in my opinion. I would imagine the smooth needs to look great because the imperfections would be super obvious so there would be way less forgiveness on mistakes.
Seriously, this was my first attempt at any sort of body work and it is not so forgiving because once it's on, it's on. And it turned out great. The biggest thing is prep and laying down a tape border that will look good. Once that is done, it is no different that coloring and staying inside the lines. The tape job is the art part, the paint job a monkey could do.
If there is anything I can do or you have any other questions, feel free.
As for rolling it, I can only speak on behalf of the rough, but I don't really see what the advantage of spraying would be. I've only heard of complaints, issues and problems when it comes to spraying. The only complaint when it comes to rolling is time. They both require very good surface prep and tape borders, maybe even bigger tape borders for spraying. Rolling is not hard at all. If you've ever rolled paint on a wall, you are qualified.
If you are planning on painting your entire ride, which is a look I'm not a fan off, I personally would then go smooth. Either way to me, if you are painting the whole thing looks tacky, but the rough all over the vehicle looks the most tacky in my opinion. I would imagine the smooth needs to look great because the imperfections would be super obvious so there would be way less forgiveness on mistakes.
Seriously, this was my first attempt at any sort of body work and it is not so forgiving because once it's on, it's on. And it turned out great. The biggest thing is prep and laying down a tape border that will look good. Once that is done, it is no different that coloring and staying inside the lines. The tape job is the art part, the paint job a monkey could do.
If there is anything I can do or you have any other questions, feel free.
I'm making up my mind whether to go the smooth or rough painting the outside of my 40. Seems like the rough is most popular, how is it for washing dirt and mud off ? I suppose a pressure washer is needed as a sponge or cloth wouldn't work with the rough surface. I read spraying the smooth didn't go well Danno, how does rolling it on work ? Thanks, Alex
- Thread starter
- #40
BTW, I've taken it through quick washes, both touch and touch-less, both times the durabak came out fine. I am a little wary of the touch because the cloth has a chance of fraying on the rough and then you may have to pick little puffs of cotton from your ride, but so far I've lucked out.
