- Thread starter
- #41
See post #30....
THE unofficial Durabak Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bosljeff
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See post #30....
You purchase it from the dealer. Smooth sucks trust me. I have placed pics that shows it.
Well Durabak came through. I talked to the president and he made it right. The pics I sent helped quite a bit.
- Thread starter
- #44
Nice to know the company gets it right too. Was it just a bad "batch" of paint or something?
Hard to tell. They told me that a batch might be bad but without a batch code on the container it is hard to tell. Mine did not have a code on it. It did not cover at all. He thought that my pipe was bare metal but it was epoxy primer. A few calls later. It all worked out.
Danno, did you re-do it? If so how does it look now?
I bought 2 gallons of the smooth with UV to do the inside and outside of my 40. Body is on stands and stripped so not much to tape off. I didn't know they even sold it in quarts or I would have ordered it that way
I bought 2 gallons of the smooth with UV to do the inside and outside of my 40. Body is on stands and stripped so not much to tape off. I didn't know they even sold it in quarts or I would have ordered it that way
They sell them but it depends upon what they have in stock. For some reason they don't advertise it. I noticed it after my first batch was sent to me and they all came in quarts except for the 1 gallon red smooth which was the one that gave me problems.
For all those that are considering it, you need to flip the can over if you are not done with the contents. It is the same concept as POR15. I would prefer to do it this way...add pam to the rim, plastic on top and same for the lid....sandwich them together after and flip it.
For all those that are considering it, you need to flip the can over if you are not done with the contents. It is the same concept as POR15. I would prefer to do it this way...add pam to the rim, plastic on top and same for the lid....sandwich them together after and flip it.
What does this do for you? Doesn't it still scum over on top, er the bottom?
I had thought about placing plastic wrap on top of the left over liquid. I even thought about shooting C02/Argon (Mig gas) into the can to remove the air as I close the lid... Not sure if it would help. I am painting in stages with the doors, fenders, hood, and top later on. So preserving the paint is important to me.
I had thought about placing plastic wrap on top of the left over liquid. I even thought about shooting C02/Argon (Mig gas) into the can to remove the air as I close the lid... Not sure if it would help. I am painting in stages with the doors, fenders, hood, and top later on. So preserving the paint is important to me.
Anybody know how much would need to be ordered to do the entire underside of an FJ60?
I've got a frame/body swap coming up shortly, then a move over to road-salt country, so I'd like to get all of the frame, underside, rock rails, etc., coated before moving.
Thx in advance--
I've got a frame/body swap coming up shortly, then a move over to road-salt country, so I'd like to get all of the frame, underside, rock rails, etc., coated before moving.
Thx in advance--
Use POR 15 or an equivalent. Much better choice in my opinion. 1 gallon should be plenty.
The problem with por15 is that it needs to go on the rusty metal not over paint. 1 gallon of durabak should work for you.
If you flip the can over, the layer of dried durabak stays on the bottom and you have a fresh coating to use once you crack open the can and don't bother with using gas in the can. Personally think it is a waste to do that. Just do what I said.
If you flip the can over, the layer of dried durabak stays on the bottom and you have a fresh coating to use once you crack open the can and don't bother with using gas in the can. Personally think it is a waste to do that. Just do what I said.
Looks like my initial problem with the smooth red UV is now history for at least the rear swing arm bumper. Rolled it on yesterday with what Avi sent me. The texture is more like what I've seen with line-x not like what it looks like on my cruiser's tub. I sprayed that with an undercoating gun. You use more product but so it is rougher is all. I'll know more on the second coat.
- Thread starter
- #54
I don't know. Someone else will have to chime in. I personally don't think it will end up looking that good if you use the textured. IMO.
Yes you can paint over Durabak. What various kinds of paint you can use I don't know, but I sprayed Rustoleum over my smooth Durabak. Of course I sanded and prepped to make sure of good adhesion first.
- Thread starter
- #56
2 years and 3 months later and the Durabak still looks awesome!
what do you do with small rust spot before rolling it on ? Just sand it out ,or can you put por15 on and then rough it up
I just did mine following bosljeff's recipe and it looks pretty good. Sand the rust spots and paint with Rust Bullet(2 coats). If you have holes fill with bondo, or patch panel if they're big enough, and paint with Rust Bullet over the filler. Once dry, rough up every place you want to Duraback, mask and roll. Like any painting project, prep is the key. Good luck.
- Thread starter
- #59
Well done. I'm glad it worked out. It looks good.
I'll add mine to this list.
6 hours of prep, and about 45 minutes of actually dealing with the durabak. I can barely paint a wall but this stuff is near idiot proof.
This is the tape you want to use to mark your lines. Its strong, flexs really easy and can handle getting hit with the occasional accidental sanding block. Carborundum Abrasives 30154 - Carborundum Abrasives Blue FineLine Masking Tape - Overview - SummitRacing.com
The tape is kind of a cross between painters tape and electrical tape. I was able to use a single piece to bend around the wheel well and it came off cleanly. I then used 2" blue painters tape on top of it to catch the excess durabak.
6 hours of prep, and about 45 minutes of actually dealing with the durabak. I can barely paint a wall but this stuff is near idiot proof.
This is the tape you want to use to mark your lines. Its strong, flexs really easy and can handle getting hit with the occasional accidental sanding block. Carborundum Abrasives 30154 - Carborundum Abrasives Blue FineLine Masking Tape - Overview - SummitRacing.com
The tape is kind of a cross between painters tape and electrical tape. I was able to use a single piece to bend around the wheel well and it came off cleanly. I then used 2" blue painters tape on top of it to catch the excess durabak.
