Builds The Trail Snail Build | Above Average Overlandish (21 Viewers)

[SmokingRocks]

Yea.. so already got a oem gasket from @beno, do I really need the MLS gasket? I get that the combustion chamber dimensions will shrink a bit with decking and planing which would increase the compression ratio a bit... also I'm not planning on boosting since this is an obd 1 engine.

 

[bryanb]

Yea.. so already got a oem gasket from @beno, do I really need the MLS gasket? I get that the combustion chamber dimensions will shrink a bit with decking and planing which would increase the compression ratio a bit... also I'm not planning on boosting since this is an obd 1 engine.

No. MLS isn't necessary. The compression and timing changes associated with decking the block and head are minimal. It will likely hold up well for you for a long, long time.

What pushed me to go with MLS (after having already bought an OE head gasket) were a bunch of small factors that added up, IMO. An MLS gasket is the most robust option available and therefore the least likely to fail. There is no need to re-torque (a few hours of my life back). Perfect size to restore the 20 thousandths total removed from my block and head. If I ever do run boost, I'll have peace of mind. If I ever in the future decided I needed MLS, I won't have to completely remove the engine again to get the block and head milled (which is required for an MLS gasket). It's sort of a now-or-never kind of item when you're in the middle of a rebuild.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Questions:

I am looking for a total rebuild kit for the engine, who has the best one at the best price? I will need over-sized pistons.

Also since I removed my ABS system can I also remove the ABS control unit and relays? The bulb has been removed from the cluster so I'm not worried about that, just want to make sure that the ECU doesn't need to see the ABS control module plugged in in order to function correctly.

 

[half k cruiser]

Questions:

I am looking for a total rebuild kit for the engine, who has the best one at the best price? I will need over-sized pistons.
.

For the seals and orings I went with @beno but you can insert your vendor of choice there. Any of them should give you a minimum of 25% off of MSRP from what I've seen. As for pistons, you could do OEM or Carillo, probably Mahle as well. Whats wrong with the current bottom end ?

 

[SmokingRocks]

The deck is too pitted and needs to be machined. Since that means dropping the pistons and crank I figured I would do a full rebuild; Boring, honing, polishing bearings ect.

 

[bloc]

Questions:
Also since I removed my ABS system can I also remove the ABS control unit and relays? The bulb has been removed from the cluster so I'm not worried about that, just want to make sure that the ECU doesn't need to see the ABS control module plugged in in order to function correctly.

Yes. jcardona has a writeup on doing this as well as adding an aftermarket adjustable brake proportioning valve... though I didn't follow his very closely.

I just removed the abs actuator and relays, cut the harness back, and shrink wrapped all of the left over wire nubs. This also frees up a relatively high-amperage fuse spot in the block under the hood, if you have need for it. Then I ditched the factory LSPV and have two separate brake circuits now. I do keep this in mind for panic stops but so far it has pretty good manners even with how hard I drive it. I even ditched all of the wiring along the axle/suspension. Left the sensors in the knuckles just to seal the holes.. one day I'll find an alternate solution.

The only tricky part is mentioned by jose in his thread.. While they are both reverse flare and the same size/pitch, the fittings at the MC are different than most of what is on the truck. The lines going into the little elbows and Ts throughout the system have an unthreaded section on the tip.. if you try to run a line fitting that doesn't have this clean section into a part that needs it it will bottom out and leak slightly.

So much extra line gets removed when you ditch ABS and LSPV that I had enough short patch lines with the right fittings left over to not need to make new lines.. just rebend some of the stock stuff and everything works great.

but to answer the question directly.. no, your ECU or TCU do not need any communication from the ABS computer.

 

[half k cruiser]

The deck is too pitted and needs to be machined. Since that means dropping the pistons and crank I figured I would do a full rebuild; Boring, honing, polishing bearings ect.

Ahh ok, I had to take the block from my 94 and get it decked down because of pitting. The bores however were very tight with almost no signs of wear and all of the factory cross hatch visible. I opted to have it step honed and just replaced the rings to get compression up and oil consumption down. I did replace main bearings and big end rod bearings with Clevite (made in Japan) just for the fact that it only cost $90 and I was already in there. If your bores are still good, and unless you plan to do a stroker motor, you will probably get very little bang for your buck by boring the cylinders over. On the other hand I would definitely get a set of fresh rings in there if you have the block apart. For around $120 in rings plus $10 a bore for honing, coupled with the head work, you will notice a big difference.

 

[bryanb]

Ahh ok, I had to take the block from my 94 and get it decked down because of pitting. The bores however were very tight with almost no signs of wear and all of the factory cross hatch visible. I opted to have it step honed and just replaced the rings to get compression up and oil consumption down. I did replace main bearings and big end rod bearings with Clevite (made in Japan) just for the fact that it only cost $90 and I was already in there. If your bores are still good, and unless you plan to do a stroker motor, you will probably get very little bang for your buck by boring the cylinders over. On the other hand I would definitely get a set of fresh rings in there if you have the block apart. For around $120 in rings plus $10 a bore for honing, coupled with the head work, you will notice a big difference.

What he said, is exactly what I did too. 1FZ-FE Rebuild - Restoring my FZJ80 from an early demise

 

[SmokingRocks]

Windsheild Washer Resevior and new ECU have arrived.

Pulled the engine out and one of my motor mounts I replaced last winter was already broken in half! WTF... No it was not OEM but seriously how does that happen in like 6 months? Is there a better alternative.

Anyway here are the progress photos.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Block is in at the machine shop getting some love.

In the down time I am finishing up the wiring in the cab. Since I deleted my ABS I don't need the control module anymore which means I can use the mounting bracket for something else. I ended up making a very compact mount for my Yaesu 8800 HAM radio and external speaker.

Here is the ABS brain.

Here is my mounts in place of the abs brain

 

[SmokingRocks]

Used the ABS actuator modual bracket for my ARB air compressor. Relocating it to the driver side to make room for my dual battery set up.

 

[SmokingRocks]

THE DASH IS BACK IN!!!!!

Also decided it was time to wash out the engine bay.

Loading up to head to the shop's hotsy

After the wash

Big thanks to @JohnnyOshow22

 

[SmokingRocks]

Revised my relay mount and relocated my fuse block from the firewall right next to the relay location. Shorter runs...

Its taking a lot to shelve my OCD about all the different color and types of wire in this bundle, my thought is to just cover them up with harness wrap so I don't have to look at them!

The wrap

 

[bryanb]

Looking good! I know what you mean about taking the dash out and just hoping upon hope that you figure it all out putting it back together. Good work!

 

[SmokingRocks]

My new switches came in. These are Carling switches with amber back lights. The dash is being converted to amber LED backlighting.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v507/Palitosphotos/IMG_20160807_205902346_zpsadla6spe.jpg

 

[SmokingRocks]

built my switch panel tonight!
I took my direction from azrider's panel as seen here:
my new switch panel

Thanks for the inspiration @azrider

And I updated my to-do list.

 

[half k cruiser]

Shopping list written on discarded cardboard from the shop = awesome !!!!

 

[SmokingRocks]

Dual battery system installed. Wires labeled with label maker. Stereo and dash back in, I tested all the electronics and everything works. Things are looking good.

That is a brand new Deep cylce Batteries plus 27M on the left. I had them order the F version for the driver side. 75AH, 1800 CCA AGM's.

I used 1/0 wire for the batteries, I figured theres no harm in going too big.

Dash in, just waiting for my switch bezel.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Finished out my switch panel tonight. Wow that was a lot of work!

Here is the final shot of the wiring

Set in the panel for the first time since it was permanently mounted and plasit-dipped. (the astute viewer will notice the dual battery meter has been mounted as well.)

in place

So this panel is controlled by the power switch on the right side that way regardless of the position of the key in the ignition I can operate any of these devices.

Light test.

I moved the front light bar switch to the dash bezel next to the dash dimmer knob. That way its easier to reach when driving.

Overall I'm very happy with the way this turned out.

I just need to wire the relay signal wires to the switches, put the steering wheel back on and the interior is done.

 

[JohnnyOshow22]

Was the switch panel another cookie sheet?