Builds The "Red Rocket" Troopy (2 Viewers)

[robmobile73]

Lots of progress! Finished up the drivers side yesterday and started on the passenger side, found more and more bondo and the rockers on passenger side were wayyyyy worse. But that's how they were when I got it, I knew it had that rust and that the rockers were ate. Much prefer that than the unlimited amount of shoddy french repair work hidden from my eyes.

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it's not beautiful by any means but its a ton better than what was hidden in there before!
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Rockers before
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tacked together
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Will post photos probably tomorrow of the final product with red paint on it and all. If I'm home this summer the troopy will be parked for the majority of it and I'll cut all the rust in the roof out and repair it all... its bad. Then will get it actually painted, not just rattle-canned 20,000 different shades of red everywhere. Then install the pop top onto it and have a fresh start with rust. Not excited to remove all the windows and windshield...

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YESSS!!! I'm dying to get out there again. There is a slight chance that myself along with @svsisu might be towing like 10 pop tops out west, eventually into California, with the Red Rocket. I offered to do it for free along as fuel and trailer costs were covered, would be significantly cheaper for everyone than shipping them to the west coast from South Africa or paying for freight across the US to the west coast after they arrive here on the east. And then I would end up on the west coast for relatively free!

Yea you're very right, my body welding skills are getting better and better! I'm feeling more confident about tackling the massive project of my roof. But after all of this shoddy work I'm pretty terrified as to what awaits me in my roof, whatever it is isn't gonna be good looking at what I've found in my rockers and quarter panels.

Thank you for all the advice! I did it all piece by piece as instructed. While I didn't cut out the entirety of whatever panel had rust on it I confirmed with a camera that there was none left, cut out all the rust there was without getting rid of good metal.

I very briefly looked into that, y'all have heard the reasoning from me 10,000,000,000,000 times now. I'm broke, especially after the whole trooper explosion thing. Whatever money I do have laying around would prefer to spend on other things, like a water temp gauge, haven't had one for the past 2 weeks now lol... need to get on that. Regardless thanks for the heads up. Luckily I was able to find a bunch of school lockers from the '70s and '80s for $40 that I have been cutting donor steel out of for the troopy. Much more cost-efficient!!

You're doing awesome work on patching those panels man. ...I've got issues with the 73. I kind of want to move on to something else, but in the search for a windshield frame and some engine parts I found some cool stuff on Alibaba. I'm going to send you a PM. But here's a teaser related to what you are doing: New Replacement For Land Cruiser Fj73 Bj73 Rear Fender Rear Side Panel - Buy Land Cruiser Fj73 Bj73 Rear Fender,Fender For Fj73 Bj73,Land Cruiser Body Parts Product on Alibaba.com - https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/NEW-REPLACEMENT-FOR-LAND-CRUISER-FJ73_1600567869827.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.normal_offer.d_image.42155605NNJhAz

I'm considering 2X front and rear fenders, rockers and windshield frame.

 

[PabloCruise]

@theglobb @svsisu epic road trip.

Don’t forget a stop here, @PabloCruise and @Laughingjackal want to check out that 4bd1t cruiser. Beer, brawts and fire pits ..

Heck yeah man, c’mon by!

 

[theglobb]

Wrapped up most of the lower body rust repair this thing needs! Wasnt as bad as I thought it would be in all honesty, prob because it is all imperfect and not totally flat. I don't know how master body repair men do the job they do with grinding everything perfectly and cutting out everything exactly to the correct size. Next up will be the roof! Man that's gonna SUCK.

Have also been tackling a ton of little rust spots before they become big, an example is this spot in the rear door.

and since this is definitely the most beater status troopy here in America I figured I'd just weld up the hole I punched in the side of it back in Sept at the 70 series meet and greet. Not gonna grind it or paint it a color, will just clearcoat it and leave the scar there until one day long from now I'm able to professionally fix it, or can get a donor piece from another 70 series. At least its not gonna be raining into it anymore

I'm honestly kinda impressed with myself. Yea obviously it isn't perfect at all, not even close! Even though it may not look as good as the bondo did (before it started rusting through) its 10x better than the crap they left in there. Maybe once I go to repaint it after the rust repairs in the roof, then I might do a small layer of bondo over all the slightly uneven metal just to smooth it out.

Fuel, trailer, and BEER! Don't sell yourself short.

Your repairs are looking good. Hell of a way to spend spring break. We might have to tag team mine- I'll cut and grind, you weld, and I'll finish.

Headed to Mex next week, but hoping to be back in the mountains early April.

LOL! you're very right, if it does work out it'll be so much fun. And yea... not exactly the way I envisioned my spring break going but it's not like I;m some party animal that would want to go down to Florida anyways, might aswell give the Red Rocket some love. I'll be glad to weld aslong as you're fine with some imperfections everywhere! Who knows, maybe I'll be a master by the time we get around to doing yours. Have fun in Mexico, see you around sometime soon.

Looking good! I've done a lot of welding on heavier stuff, but only a tiny amount of body work. It definitely takes a lot more patience and finesse to make something turn out looking good on thin sheet metal. Taking notes for when I start rust repair on the Prado, the tinworm has bitten and will need to be addressed sooner rather than later. Hoping to start saving up for some rust repair panels once the parts fund recovers from the adapter plate debacle.

If you make it as far north as Yellowstone on your potential trip give me a shout, would love to finally meet up! (Especially considering it didn't quite work out last time.)

Yup! Far easier to weld on thicker stuff obviously, plus usually when its thicker, its something industrial... with this you have to worry about every little bend and bump looking off. Key word is YOU, luckily for me I'm content with it just looking close enough haha. If the trip thing does end up happening then I'd be put on the west of America for pretty much free. After that would love to explore and visit everyone I could possibly visit, was also thinking I could shadow/work for some LC shops out west for 2 weeks or so, make a little money, help out where I can and make more and more connections!

@theglobb @svsisu epic road trip.

Don’t forget a stop here, @PabloCruise and @Laughingjackal want to check out that 4bd1t cruiser. Beer, brawts and fire pits ..

It's all still a very big IF! No concrete plans or anything, just something I offered. If it does come to fruition though we will be sure to stop

Are you spraying cavity wax into the spaces behind your new metal work?
I used to make my own from toilet wax rings and paint thinner.
A cheap pressurized sprayer gun with wand for applying.

I've been spraying rust converter everywhere inside hoping to stop any little specks I couldn't see, then fluid film, would you recommend a more wax-like substance instead?

You're doing awesome work on patching those panels man. ...I've got issues with the 73. I kind of want to move on to something else, but in the search for a windshield frame and some engine parts I found some cool stuff on Alibaba. I'm going to send you a PM. But here's a teaser related to what you are doing: New Replacement For Land Cruiser Fj73 Bj73 Rear Fender Rear Side Panel - Buy Land Cruiser Fj73 Bj73 Rear Fender,Fender For Fj73 Bj73,Land Cruiser Body Parts Product on Alibaba.com - https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/NEW-REPLACEMENT-FOR-LAND-CRUISER-FJ73_1600567869827.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.normal_offer.d_image.42155605NNJhAz

I'm considering 2X front and rear fenders, rockers and windshield frame.

Thanks for the kind words, going better than expected! A windshield frame is tempting!!! I know mine is long past gone, multiple cracks through everything and I can see where more horrible repairs were done in the past.

 

[Felde]

I've been spraying rust converter everywhere inside hoping to stop any little specks I couldn't see, then fluid film, would you recommend a more wax-like substance instead?

In FluidFilm we trust!
(That verse still needs to go as a sticker on mine).
I'd soak the rust with FluidFilm Liquid A. It is however really liquid and will not stick very good to even surfaces. FluidFilm Gel BN has a greasy consistency and can be applied with a brush. It can also be diluted with Liquid A to a consistency that can be sprayed. But anyways: It's a mess to do
(Never do it in a shop or driveway, except you like skating)

Welds well done From what I saw, only a bit (!) of bondo and some sanding would be needed to smooth it out and make it really nice. Not doing it (now) fits the iconic look of the Red Rcket, though.
Be cautious to apply a decent paintjob, though. One layer will always have micro fissures in it, promoting your new welds to rust again. Depending on what your further plans are: Consider primer, but apply at least two layers and clear.
Good Luck Ralf

 

[theglobb]

4 years ago yesterday I got the Red Rocket! It's been thru a ton since then, truly a massive part of my life. Met all of you amazing people (some in person some not) because of this car, really haven't had a bad interaction because of it. Wrote some long thing on my Instagram but I'm feeling lazy today, basically I'm so glad I got this vehicle and many thanks to everyone on this thread who have offered advice, help, even money through all of this. I appreciate you all.

 

[theglobb]

Last night when I was ubering for all the parties the troopy started to misfire HARDDD. Then just shut off entirely, glided into the parking lot of some abandoned store, thank god I didn’t have any girls in the car when this happened. Opened the bleeder screw under the hood, pumped the fuel and got some flowing out of it. Started the troopy floored it to keep it barely running. Basically what I’m saying is it sucked in a massive bit of air into the fuel system. Limped it home last night and I’m working on it right now. I can hear the leak when I pressurize the fuel system. Sprayed soapy water on every single fuel component and fitting on the vehicle yet no bubbles form when pumping.

It sounds closest to the injection pump I think… these IP’s are pretty identical on the outside and probably inside as the 3B, 2H, etc etc. does anyone have any advice or experience on a leak you can hear but not see? Or how to successfully track it down?




Any and all suggestions/advice is greatly appreciated

 

[Felde]

I guess, it is the pump itself, as the Sound immediately appears and is fully in sync with the pumping motion.
You also apparently do not build any pressure at all.
If it barely runs: Spray some starter fluid around the pump and move it. If the revs go up... there you go.
Good Luck Ralf

 

[theglobb]

I guess, it is the pump itself, as the Sound immediately appears and is fully in sync with the pumping motion.
You also apparently do not build any pressure at all.
If it barely runs: Spray some starter fluid around the pump and move it. If the revs go up... there you go.
Good Luck Ralf

Interesting I’ve used the starting fluid trick to find vaccum leaks on gassers but never thought to use it on a diesel. I tried it and it didn’t change a single thing.

I should have gave more details, it runs perfectly fine. But for the past week or so randomly once it sits overnight I’ll make it half way up my long driveway and then it will die. I have to bleed the system then once it’s fully primed I’m good to go anywhere. Like it’s loosing its prime overnight. Once it has pressure though it runs fine. However recently the past 2 days and last night it had a stutter randomly like an hour into driving, then obviously last night totally clunked out until I primed it back.

This video is right after I started it for the first time this morning, but I have been pumping and priming it so obviously it’s gonna run fine


The part that I don’t understand is why it now is randomly sucking in air while running even though the engine has been running and primed for an hour or more. I understand why it would loose prime not running sitting for 12 hours… but while it’s running and just randomly is weird to me

 

[FJBen]

Did you say you replaced that primer pump?

Those are notorious for letting in air.

 

[Felde]

Well, I guess it sucks in air when sitting over night and the diesel runs back into the tank..
But the bleeding pump is not designed for that frequent use. I still suspect the pump to be the culprit for your current issue.
As mom says: One might have fleas and louse.
Try to disconnect the feed line, block the input nipple off at the IP and give it a try with the pump again.
Other idea: What about pushing in some diesel in reverse, e.g. with a syringe. Maybe you see it leaking out then somewhere.
Good !uck Ralf

 

[bj70bc]

i vote primer pump

 

[theglobb]

Sweet thank all of y’all for the advice. Bought one yesterday, OEM Bosch unit that is apparently way better than all the others out there. Will keep the thread updated if that solves the issues or not!

Picked up a spare transmission for the zupup since this one is currently failing, and a 62 series front axle for my friends 1JZ 1st gen 4 runner swap so he can SAS swap it. Traded a skateboard for a WHOLE FRONT AXLE!!!

Guy who had the spare zupup engine/transmission also had a 1/400 in the US short wheel base Isuzu trooper!

 

[svsisu]

Sweet thank all of y’all for the advice. Bought one yesterday, OEM Bosch unit that is apparently way better than all the others out there. Will keep the thread updated if that solves the issues or not!

Picked up a spare transmission for the zupup since this one is currently failing, and a 62 series front axle for my friends 1JZ 1st gen 4 runner swap so he can SAS swap it. Traded a skateboard for a WHOLE FRONT AXLE!!!
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Guy who had the spare zupup engine/transmission also had a 1/400 in the US short wheel base Isuzu trooper!
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I hope you got one of those ISUZU DOMI-NATION STICKERS! A skateboard for an axle? You find the goods, man.

 

[Tigris]

Sweet thank all of y’all for the advice. Bought one yesterday, OEM Bosch unit that is apparently way better than all the others out there. Will keep the thread updated if that solves the issues or not!

Picked up a spare transmission for the zupup since this one is currently failing, and a 62 series front axle for my friends 1JZ 1st gen 4 runner swap so he can SAS swap it. Traded a skateboard for a WHOLE FRONT AXLE!!!
View attachment 3591053

Guy who had the spare zupup engine/transmission also had a 1/400 in the US short wheel base Isuzu trooper!
View attachment 3591056View attachment 3591054

Nifty Trooper. Of course, it is rather difficult to admire another truck/maker when you drive a legend. Seeing what was clearly inspired by the 70 Series on the offerings of other makers is both neat and perplexing all at once.

1/400 in the US is great conversation opener, but I have all the coffee-table-book glam I can handle courtesy of Tigris 3

 

[bj70bc]

Sweet thank all of y’all for the advice. Bought one yesterday, OEM Bosch unit that is apparently way better than all the others out there. Will keep the thread updated if that solves the issues or not!

Picked up a spare transmission for the zupup since this one is currently failing, and a 62 series front axle for my friends 1JZ 1st gen 4 runner swap so he can SAS swap it. Traded a skateboard for a WHOLE FRONT AXLE!!!
View attachment 3591053

Guy who had the spare zupup engine/transmission also had a 1/400 in the US short wheel base Isuzu trooper!
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looks like an old Bronco / Cherokee mashup

 

[theglobb]

Well I installed the new part, the noise was still there but I was hopeful. Started it and drove it for 2 hours with no issues! Then out of nowhere massive misfire and the engine died. Opened the bleeder and pumped and only air came out for like 30 seconds, more and more pumping eventually got me to straight pure diesel. Started the troopy, drove another mile or two and the same thing happened... repeated the process and it happened again a mile or two down the road. Fun, great!!!! Well I turned around and repeated that process all the way home. Eventually made it home, albeit soaked in diesel and a tad bit defeated. No clue what I'm gonna do to track down this leak. I would start with changing ever single piece of rubber fuel line on the car but the thing is, I CAN HEAR THE LEAK. It will be a shame if it's something inside of the IP, cause I have no money to rebuild it and would be amazed if it needed a rebuild at only 90,000 miles.

New hand pump

and the old

in other realms, check out how small this clutch is for my isuzu pup

and just the whole transmission aswell, I can hold it with one arm

no wonder why the engine attached to this trans was locked up solid...

A skateboard for an axle? You find the goods, man.

yea... absurd. I was thinking of just getting the axle and piecing it together, painting it, and selling it for quite a bit of money but this guy is a great friend of mine and will be nice to see it go to such a cool build

Nifty Trooper. Of course, it is rather difficult to admire another truck/maker when you drive a legend. Seeing what was clearly inspired by the 70 Series on the offerings of other makers is both neat and perplexing all at once.

Yea, it's pretty hilarious actually to see all the almost exact similarities between the two. Even down to the unevenly shaped rear doors.

 

[AirheadNut]

That primer is pretty much the exact same one that I replaced on the OM617 in my G-Wagen years ago, the original style was notorious for developing leaks. If you can hear the leak in the vicinity of the IP and you've gone through and replaced all the fuel lines and tightened all the clamps in that area, it is likely the IP itself. Mileage is only one factor for those seals and o-rings leaking; age is another. It is not uncommon for injection pumps to start leaking after a couple of decades, the rubber simply hardens and no longer seals as well.

I see on the old primer there is an o-ring where it threads in, did the new one have that or did it use a crush washer?

That clutch is very small! The only automotive style clutch I've seen smaller than that was in a Daihatsu HiJet I worked on for a friend a few years back.

 

[FJBen]

It doesn’t take much to lose prime but if yours is losing it that quick now it’s definitely a bigger leak.


Try running from a 5 gallon fuel can. Make sure it’s clean or even out a cheap in-line filter on it. Run a hose to the primer pump and keep the fuel up higher. (Full bogan says pull the hood so you can put the fuel can there)

If it stalls out again after a few minutes then it’s Probabaly something in the pump. If it runs fine and no issues, then it’s the lines from the primer pump all the way to the pickup tube in the tank.

 

[Rigster]

Start simple and work your way up from the tank. Test every line... I use vacuum to test for leaks, but pressure will work too. Although time consuming and annoying, in most cases, it is simply worn rubber lines, a pinhole in a hard metal line, or need new clamps or a combination of all 3. If you are worried on budget, grab bulk diesel rated fuel line and a box of clamps and go to town, just inspect/test the hard lines. Replace everything soft and clampy looking with new.

 

[robmobile73]

Well I installed the new part, the noise was still there but I was hopeful. Started it and drove it for 2 hours with no issues! Then out of nowhere massive misfire and the engine died. Opened the bleeder and pumped and only air came out for like 30 seconds, more and more pumping eventually got me to straight pure diesel. Started the troopy, drove another mile or two and the same thing happened... repeated the process and it happened again a mile or two down the road. Fun, great!!!! Well I turned around and repeated that process all the way home. Eventually made it home, albeit soaked in diesel and a tad bit defeated. No clue what I'm gonna do to track down this leak. I would start with changing ever single piece of rubber fuel line on the car but the thing is, I CAN HEAR THE LEAK. It will be a shame if it's something inside of the IP, cause I have no money to rebuild it and would be amazed if it needed a rebuild at only 90,000 miles.

New hand pump
View attachment 3592864
and the old
View attachment 3592863



in other realms, check out how small this clutch is for my isuzu pup
View attachment 3592861

and just the whole transmission aswell, I can hold it with one arm
View attachment 3592868

no wonder why the engine attached to this trans was locked up solid...
View attachment 3592869



yea... absurd. I was thinking of just getting the axle and piecing it together, painting it, and selling it for quite a bit of money but this guy is a great friend of mine and will be nice to see it go to such a cool build

Yea, it's pretty hilarious actually to see all the almost exact similarities between the two. Even down to the unevenly shaped rear doors.

I'm going to assume your first priority is to make your truck run reliably with as little waste of time and money as possible. I also believe that your problem is that air is getting in the fuel lines and causing the lift pump to lose prime.
1. buy a cheap electric fuel pump and put it in your fuel line very close to the tank to push the fuel to your pump. Here's a example and it's only $14: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Pr...&sprefix=24v+electric+fuel+pump,aps,96&sr=8-3
2. If this causes your truck to run reliably then you definately have a air leak. Perhaps it will cause fuel to leak out of that spot now that it is positively pressured. This may help you find your leak.
3. If this also doesn't work then perhaps your tank vent is clogged causing a vacum in your tank. Or it is something else beyond these thoughts.
4. If the E-pump works it out for you then on those days when you have free time on your hands you can always disconnect the epump and troubleshoot searching for the air leak and make the "proper repair". In the meantime however you'll be driving.

Every modern vehicle I know of has a electric pump in the tank to push the fuel to the engine.