the Puma
- Thread starter bj70_guy
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Yes, that's the one. But since you're 24V, don't you need two 12V?
Well that would kick butt... but I have a dedicated 12V battery on it's own charge circuit tucked in my storage unit. Easy peasy to hook up a Puma.
I thought it looked big and heavy till I compared it to the CO2 bottle I never got around to installing before Moab. It looks downright petite in comparison
I love mine but dont believe the R.L.A. of 30A claim(FWIW it does start at 30A with no load). I have tested the load amps and it runs 45A-50A depending on your battery voltage. Size your wire accordingly.
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I've used 10 gauge landscape wire 
, but it's outside of the truck and not permanently wired. That wire gets nice and warm during an air-up session...
Instructions say to use 8 gauge, 6 gauge would probably be better.
, but it's outside of the truck and not permanently wired. That wire gets nice and warm during an air-up session...Instructions say to use 8 gauge, 6 gauge would probably be better.
I've used 10 gauge landscape wire
Instructions say to use 8 gauge, 6 gauge would probably be better.
A maximum distance of 10 feet will limit the voltage drop to 3% or less with a #6 Copper conductor delivering 45.0 amps on a 13.5 volt system(engine running).
No #6 landscaping wire available that Im aware of
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Mine has been working on the 10G x 10' wire (~3yrs), but likely not at full potential performance. If upgrading the wire, how does the numbers on 8G x 20' look or better off just to go with 6G?
8 gauge at 20' ~1.3v loss on 13.5. It will work just like the 10 gauge has worked But to optimize performance 6 gauge would be a better choice.
FWIR voltage would drop slightly below 12v with 10 gauge @15' with the engine running.
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A couple of my observations on them:
First; they are very portable, IMHO this is a good thing. My early plan was to divorce the tank and integrate it into the rig. There have been a couple of times where rigs have broken and I couldn't drive to them, so having the ability it carry the air supply is a plus.
Second; cooling, heat is the #1 enemy of compressors, affecting both performance and life, so take this into account when mounting. I would never mount any compressor under the hood. It's not uncommon to see 150F+ underhood temps when wheeling, so when started the compressor is already at the upper end of it's operating temp range.
They can be mounted in a confined space, but will need additional fan driven airflow. Pancake fans (like used in PC's) are 12V and work well, make sure you have plenty of relatively cool airflow over the unit when running.
First; they are very portable, IMHO this is a good thing. My early plan was to divorce the tank and integrate it into the rig. There have been a couple of times where rigs have broken and I couldn't drive to them, so having the ability it carry the air supply is a plus.
Second; cooling, heat is the #1 enemy of compressors, affecting both performance and life, so take this into account when mounting. I would never mount any compressor under the hood. It's not uncommon to see 150F+ underhood temps when wheeling, so when started the compressor is already at the upper end of it's operating temp range.
They can be mounted in a confined space, but will need additional fan driven airflow. Pancake fans (like used in PC's) are 12V and work well, make sure you have plenty of relatively cool airflow over the unit when running.
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This is a continuation of a trail discussion. The participants on that run were CSC and CC members, so posted here to get the attention of those who were involved.
Like its uncommon for a CSC thread to get hijacked or make no sense
